Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Jordan, Um Qais (ancient Gadara) is a breathtaking archaeological site. The ancient ruins offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Once a prominent member of the Decapolis—a league of ten Greco-Roman cities—Gadara was a thriving cultural and intellectual center, home to philosophers, poets, and scholars. Its strategic hilltop location provided stunning views of the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and even the Golan Heights. While many visitors focus on more famous sites like Jerash or Petra, Um Qais remains relatively under-visited. This made it a perfect destination for those of us seeking a more tranquil, immersive historical experience.
Um Qais Offered Subtle Serenity
When we arrived, we were struck by the silence and serenity of the site—apart from two other visitors, we had the ruins almost entirely to ourselves. The lack of crowds made for an intimate exploration. We were able to take in the grandeur and historical significance of the city without distraction. To gain a deeper understanding of the site, we hired a local guide who had once lived among the ruins. He gave us a unique perspective on both the ancient and more recent history of Um Qais. His firsthand knowledge and personal connection to the site added depth to the experience, making it feel like we were uncovering history layer by layer.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Um Qais is its Cardo, the main colonnaded street. Unlike most Roman cities, where the Cardo runs north to south, Um Qais’ Cardo uniquely runs east to west. It is the only Roman city with an East-West Cardo. This unusual design choice highlights how the Romans adapted their city planning to local geography. As we walked along this ancient street, we could almost hear the echoes of merchants and citizens who once bustled through these very pathways.
We Were Fascinated By Um Qais’ Ancient Basilica
Among the ruins we explored was the West Theater, an impressive structure built from black basalt stone. The dark volcanic stone is characteristic of the region. Standing in the theater, we imagined the performances and gatherings that once took place here. Nearby, we visited the remains of a basilica, an important public gathering space in Roman and Byzantine times. We also explored underground Roman tombs, which offered a haunting but fascinating look at the burial customs of the era.
The Nymphaeum
Another highlight of our visit was the nymphaeum, a grand public fountain that once served as a source of fresh water for the city’s inhabitants. The intricate design and craftsmanship hinted at the wealth and sophistication of Gadara at its peak. It was incredible to think about how such an advanced water system supported daily life in the ancient city.
Um Qais In Recent History
In addition to its Roman heritage, Um Qais has layers of Ottoman history woven into its fabric. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, villagers lived in homes built directly on top of the ruins, using pre-cut Roman stones for their construction. The restoration of these Ottoman-era homes is an ongoing project, blending historical preservation with modern conservation efforts. The contrast between ancient ruins and relatively recent history added another dimension to our visit.
Breathtaking Views
Beyond its architectural and historical significance, Um Qais boasts breathtaking panoramic views. Standing atop the ruins, we took in a spectacular vista of the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and the distant hills of the Golan Heights. The natural beauty combined with the site’s rich history made for an unforgettable experience.
Step Into the Past For A Memorable Experience
For those looking to explore an off-the-beaten-path archaeological treasure, Um Qais is a must-visit. Whether you’re drawn by the Roman ruins, the stunning scenery, or the quiet solitude, this ancient city offers an experience unlike any other in Jordan. We left feeling awed by its history and grateful for the opportunity to experience it without the usual tourist crowds. If you have the chance, hiring a knowledgeable local guide will add even more depth to your visit, making the past come alive before your eyes.
