Morocco in Two Amazing Weeks: Capitals, Camels, and Casbahs

My wife and I spent two fantastic weeks exploring Morocco. Our journey began with a flight to Morocco, where we were picked up and escorted to our hotel in Rabat. We spent two nights in Rabat, enjoying a comfortable if not spartan stay at the Belere Hotel. The hotel was comfortable and clean but in need of some updates.  

Chellah Necropolis
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During our stay in Rabat, we visited several attractions. We started our exploration with a visit to the Royal Palace, which is close to the Belere Hotel. From there, we ventured out to the Chellah Necropolis. This historic site provided some great history dating back millennia. Chellah contained fascinating ruins that dated back to different eras. It was also fascinating for the wildlife that has taken up residency there, including storks, cats, and eels. 

Royal Guard at Mohammad V Mausoleum

Our tour continued with a visit to Mausoleum of Mohammad V and the nearby Hassan Tower. While the Mausoleum and large plaza over to Hassan Tower were fascinating, my favorite part of this attraction was witnessing the changing of the Royal Guard.  I have seen changing of the guard before, but never changing of a mounted guard.  

Kasbah of the Udayas

We finished the day with a visit to the Kasbah of the Udayas. We navigated the inhabited Kasbah, taking time to snap some photos from atop the ramparts. The ramparts offered excellent views of the ocean and the Bouregreg River. We meandered down through the Kasbah to the lower garden area before heading back to the hotel. 

Rabat Medina

After arriving back at the hotel, my wife and I adventured out on our own for a visit to the Rabat Medina. This was our first medina experience in Morocco. We would soon find out that each of the medinas we visited had its own charm and distinct character. Rabat’s featured wide alleys and was much smaller in comparison to others we visited as our trip continued. 

Bouregreg Marina

After enjoying coffee and tea at the medina, we ventured down to the waterfront along the Bouregreg river. We took a very inexpensive taxi down to the waterfront, where we met a bunch of local boys jumping off the docks into the river. We struggled with broken French and Arabic to communicate with the boys, who wanted to snap photos with us.  

Volubilis Ruins

The following morning, we packed up for our trip to Fez. While en route to Fez, we stopped to visit the Roman Ruins of Volubilis. While it was a bit off the beaten path, it was worth the trip. The amazing mosaics and reconstructed ruins were a fascinating link to Morocco’s ancient history. We explored the ruins and museum before heading to Fez. 

Barcelo Fez Hotel

 In Fez, we arrived at the Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel, where we spent two nights. The hotel had a fantastic location. We stopped for a photo opportunity overlooking the Old Quarter of Fez from an ancient fort overlooking the city on our way to the hotel. We settled into the hotel before venturing out the following morning. 

Leather Tannery at Medina in Fez, Morocco

After a good night’s sleep, we headed to one of the most fascinating medina’s, Fez Market. While navigating the labyrinth of shops and restaurants of Fez, we also stopped at an iconic Fez location: A Leather Tannery. The leather tannery was fascinating, as well as malodorous.  The smell of cow urine and pigeon excrement used in the leather processing was overwhelming. We were provided with mint to help avert the assault on our nostrils. A carpet shop visit was also included as part of our medina visit. 

Barbary Apes (mother with baby)

We returned to the hotel to prepare for our next leg of the journey, traveling the following day to Erfoud. On our trip through the Mid-Atlas Mountains, we observed Barbary Apes. Our driver stopped to give us an opportunity to visit with the macaques and snap some photos. It was a surprising interaction with nature on our journey. We stopped again shortly after visiting with the apes to enjoy lunch at Kasbah Asmaa

Kasbah Hotel Xaluca Maadid pool area

After lunch we continued to Erfoud, where we bedded down at Kasbah Hotel Xaluca Maadid. This was easily the most amazing hotel we stayed at on our journey. Our two nights at Xaluca Maadid felt like sheer luxury. In addition to an amazing room, the food was exceptional at this hotel. We dined for breakfast and dinner here. 

Camels for sunset desert adventure

The following morning, we began our sightseeing with a stop in Rissani to learn about Desert Fossils. We were given the opportunity to purchase ancient fossils in the form of plates, art, and other craftsmanship. One of the highlights of the trip followed our visit to the Rissani Souk…a Desert Sunset Camel Ride. The adventure began with 4x4s through the desert, dinner at a desert oasis culminating in a camel ride up the dunes to see the sun set.  Iconic. 

Todgha Gorge

The following morning, we sadly said goodbye to our amazing hotel in Erfoud. We departed for our next overnight in Ouarzazate. En route, we stopped at the Todgha Gorge. We stopped to visit an overlook area with magnificent views of the valley before visiting the gorge. While it was a quick stop, we did have enough time to dip our toes in the cool springs of the gorge.  

Kenzi Azghor Hotel

We departed the gorge, stopping for lunch at Yasmina Restaurant in Tinnerher. We continued after lunch to our hotel, Kenzi Azghor Hotel. The hotel needed updates during our stay, but it sounds like the hotel has undergone recent renovations. After getting settled into the hotel, we ventured out for dinner at Ovelix Restaurant. After dinner, we returned to the hotel to rest before another early start the following morning. 

Ait Benhaddou viewed from across a nearby riverbed.
Ait Benhaddou from a distance.

 After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out towards Marrakesh. On our way out of town, we stopped for a short visit to Kasbah de Taourirt. The most memorable aspect of this stop was the sheer amount of art available for sale at the Kasbah. After the kasbah, we stopped at Ait Benhaddou before continuing on to our hotel in Marrakesh, Le Meridien N’Fis Hotel

Olives at the Marrakesh Medina

After arriving at our hotel, we had some time to venture out to Marrakesh Medina and Souk. We had dinner in the Souk, which was bustling with activity in the evening. We found it to be a stark contrast when we visited during the daytime. After dinner, we returned to the hotel to rest for a full day of activities the next day. 

Horse Carriage Ride in Marrakesh, Morocco

We had a great breakfast at Le Meridien before a full slate of activities. We began our sightseeing with Katoubia Mosque, a tour through the Marrakesh Medina, a cooking demonstration at Al Baraka Restaurant, and a Horse Carriage Ride through the Marrakesh Souk. After a full day of touring, we returned to the hotel. 

Goat trees on the way to Essaouira

The following day was a day trip to Essaouira. The three-hour trip in each direction made for a long but rewarding day. We made several interesting stops along the way that included taking photos with goats in the Goat Trees of Morocco. After stopping to visit the goats, we continued our drive toward Essaouira stopping again to visit Marjana Cooperative where we learned the history of argon oil. 

Waterfront promenade in Essaouira, Morocco
Visiting Essaouira on a day trip.

 Our Essaouira Day Trip finally led us to Essaouira, where we were given time to explore the walled old quarter. We stopped outside the walled city before entering to explore the shops and restaurants. We were also able to visit the ramparts where we had amazing views of the scenic waves crashing against the nearby breakers. I purchased an amazing “Fantasia” painting in Essaouira, as well as several other gifts. We returned to Marrakesh for another early day the following day. 

Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, Morocco

 
From Marrakesh, we ventured on to our final stop, Casablanca. We arrived in Casablanca in time for lunch along the Corniche seaside. From there we did a half-day tour of the city that included stops at Hassan II Mosque and Our Lady of Lourdes Church, one of the few Catholic churches in Morocco. We finished our day at the Novotel Hotel, where we spent overnight before our flight home. 

Lower gardens at Kasbah Udayas in Rabat, Morocco

Overall, our trip to Morocco was amazing. We visited several regions of the country, experiencing a wide range of Moroccan culture. One thing was always apparent, and that is the Moroccan people. While some of the vendors were aggressive at times, the people of Morocco were amazing. We felt safe, welcomed, and invited to enjoy the rich history and culture that Morocco has to offer. I would highly recommend any visit to Morocco to include a robust itinerary that includes as much of the country as you are able to see. The diverse climates and culture are worth experiencing. 

Discovering Belere Hotel: A Comfortable Stay in Rabat

On my trip to Morocco, we stayed at six hotels during our two-week tour. Our hotel stays began in Rabat, Morocco’s capital city. The first hotel was the Belere Hotel, ranked #20 of 70 for Rabat on TripAdvisor. Our tour guide met us in the lobby, handed out our keys, and informed us of a meeting on the sixth floor later that evening.

Belere hotel exterior.

Belere Hotel was somewhat basic but had friendly and accommodating staff. The room was a typical size for American travelers—compact but adequate for travel purposes. As expected in many parts of the world, the bed was firmer than those in North American hotels. The room had a small refrigerator, safe, television (which we never used), and a workstation. There were enough outlets for charging our electronics. The air conditioning was off, making the room a bit warm, and there seemed to be a leak as there was a wet spot in the carpet near the doorway.

Room view

The bathroom had some unique features. It included a bidet and a high step up to the tub/shower combination, which might be challenging for shorter or older travelers. Although it wasn’t an issue for us, it is worth noting. My biggest complaint about the hotel room was the poor Wi-Fi signal. It was barely adequate for checking email and was practically useless for anything else. The signal was better in the common areas and, thankfully, free if you could find it.

Front desk area

Breakfast was included with our stay, and we had it twice during our two nights there. The breakfast room was always crowded, making it hard to find a clean table. The food was fresh, with a decent selection of fruits, hot items, salads, and breads, but it frequently ran out and had to be replaced. The staff in the dining area worked hard to keep things clean and stocked. The coffee came from two Nespresso machines that constantly had lines. A carafe of ready-made coffee might be a good idea for large groups to keep things moving.

Rooftop view

The hotel’s location is decent. Several restaurants are located two blocks down the street, and a couple of smaller places are within a block. The Medina is about a twenty-minute walk away, and taxi fares are cheap. The tram is also near the restaurants two blocks away and is fairly easy to navigate. My wife and I took a cab to the waterfront and the train back. Both were surprisingly inexpensive.

Lobby area.

Belere Hotel is priced online under one hundred dollars per night. It is a nice hotel, and at under one hundred dollars is a fair price for what you receive. However, it’s important to manage expectations compared to US hotels. Belere Hotel has friendly staff, felt secure, the rooms were not as tiny as some I have stayed in, it is clean, the Wi-Fi is free if you can get a signal, and the breakfast is good. The location is convenient, with cheap transportation options nearby. I would consider staying at this hotel again but would likely check other options first.

The hotel also indicates that the rooms (89 rooms) have recently been renovated.

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The Chellah Necropolis: Visiting A Historic Rabat Landmark

The Chellah Necropolis, near the heart of Rabat, Morocco, offers a glimpse into centuries of history. Chellah ranks as my top recommended destination in Rabat. Recognized as a World Heritage Site since 2012, Chellah’s historical significance is unmatched.

Drummer at entrance to Chellah Necropolis

As we entered Chellah, a drummer greeted us, blending dance and percussion. School groups were captivated by his performance, dancing along. This lively scene added a festive touch to the otherwise somber necropolis. Despite its abandonment for centuries, Chellah’s ruins stand as a testament to time. It offers high vantage points near the Bouregreg River, making it a haven for nesting storks.

Nesting Storks at Chellah Necropolis

Birds are among the wildlife that inhabits Chellah

History of Chellah Necropolis

Chellah’s history stretches back over two millennia. It traces roots to the Carthaginians and Phoenicians. In the second century, Christians inhabited the area, followed by Romans until the fifth century. Arab Muslims took control in the seventh century. Remnants of a madrasah, mosque, and an ornate minaret still stand, enduring centuries of neglect. An earthquake in the eighteenth century further damaged the site, but walls, tombs, and mausoleums remain scattered throughout.

Burial sites at Chellah
Intact ruins at Chellah

Chellah’s Current Inhabitants

The primary inhabitants of Chellah are storks and numerous cats, reminiscent of Turkey’s cat population. These cats, like those in Turkey, are cared for by the community. Visitors often leave food and water for them. The cats wander freely, adding life to the ancient ruins. One cat even photo-bombed my picture, adding a touch of modernity to the historic site.

Cats at Chellah Necropolis

Eels at Chellah Necropolis

One intriguing feature of Chellah is Le Bassin Aux Anguilles, or the basin of the eels. This small pool, once a ritual bath, now houses eels. An elderly lady allows visitors to feed them for a small donation. Legend says girls seeking husbands find luck by tossing coins into the pool. Many coins gleam at the bottom, attesting to this belief.

Eel Pool at Chellah Necropolis

Admission and Hours

Admission to Chellah Necropolis is 70 dirhams, about seven US dollars. The site is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM. The low admission fee provides access to historically rich ruins and lush gardens. An overlook area offers panoramic views of the river, often used by students for drawing and learning. If you visit Rabat and can only explore one site, make it Chellah. For shopping enthusiasts, the Medina is also a top choice.

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Historic Sites in Rabat: The Mausoleum of Mohammed V

Among the top attractions in Rabat is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. This site is ranked #3 on TripAdvisor’s list of 10 Best Things To Do In Rabat. Just across the courtyard is Hassan Tower, ranked #5. Together, they create a captivating visit that takes less than an hour to visit.

Entrance to Mausoleum of Mohammad V.
Mausoleum of Mohammad V

The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is on Yacoub al-Mansour Esplanade in Rabat, adjacent to Avenue Tour Hassan. Both entrances to the sprawling courtyard are guarded by mounted Moroccan Royal Guards in ornate red uniforms. Inside, guards also protect each of the four entrances and the interior corners of the mausoleum.

Morrocan Royal Guard
Royal Guard inside the Mausoleum of Mohammad V.

Visitors climb a set of stairs to enter the Mausoleum on the upper level. From here, you can look down at the large tomb of Mohammed V, centered on the floor below and surrounded by Moroccan flags. Two additional tombs of his sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah, rest on the lower floor. The mausoleum is a stunning Alaouite structure with a striking white exterior, green roof, and lavishly decorated interior.

Columns marking location of a mosque that was not completed in the twelfth century.

Between the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower lies a large plaza filled with cylindrical columns. These columns were intended to support a massive mosque begun by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour in the late twelfth century. Hassan Tower was meant to be the world’s largest minaret at nearly 300 feet. However, the Sultan’s death halted construction, leaving the tower at half its intended height.

Hassan Tower

The Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower are free to visit. Restrooms and vendors selling small trinkets and food are located near the far entrance. As we were leaving, we caught the changing of the guard for the mounted Palace Guard, a perfect end to our visit.

Changing of the Royal Guard
Changing of the Royal Guard at the Mausoleum of Mohammed V

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Exploring the Kasbah of the Udayas: Rabat’s Scenic Fort

A Historical Gem

The Kasbah of the Udayas (Casbah des Oudaias) is a waterfront focal point of Rabat, located off Rue de Consuls along the Bouregreg River. First built during the Almoravid Dynasty, the kasbah was later rebuilt by the Almohad Caliphate in the mid-twelfth century. The kasbah was deserted at the end of the twelfth century but is now a bustling hive of activity.

Kasbah of Udayas

A Walk Through History

We entered the kasbah at the higher elevation of the fortress, greeted by narrow walkways adorned in blue and white. Vendors and shops lined our path as we made our way to the stunning shoreline vantage point. From there, we navigated through another series of alleyways to the lower section of the kasbah, featuring a lush garden. The kasbah offers an exceptional view of the surrounding region, making it the perfect spot for a fortification.

Blue and white accents through the Udaya Kasbah

A Unique Experience

Exterior of Kasbah of the Udayas

The Kasbah of the Udayas, inhabited for centuries by sultans and refugees, also houses Rabat’s oldest mosque. The merchants near the entrance and walkways were laid-back, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. The colorful blue and white hues gave the kasbah a Mediterranean feel, enhanced by the nearby waterfront view.

View from ramparts at Kasbah of Udayas.

The lower entrance’s lush gardens were immaculately tended. Despite the tempting tea service in the outdoor seating, we continued our exploration due to the heat. The Kasbah of the Udayas is a must-see in Rabat, offering rich history and breathtaking views.

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What to See and Do in Historic Rabat Medina

Introduction to the Rabat Medina

To understand the Rabat Medina, I will begin by defining the term medina. The essence of Moroccan history can be felt in the old quarters of its cities. These areas, called Medinas, translate as “city.” Medinas are vibrant hubs with fresh produce, textiles, crafts, clothing, and restaurants. They offer visitors an experience that appeals to all senses. The smell of barbecued meat, the rich colors of fresh produce, and the cacophony of trade. The taste of freshly squeezed juice and rich textures are also experiences to behold. While they are a tourist’s dream, most trade in the Medinas is conducted by locals.

Rabat's medina

Rabat’s Unique Medina

Each Medina has its own character. The Rabat Medina has wider alleyways than Fez, laid out in a navigable grid. Generally, traffic in the Medina is restricted to foot traffic, though we occasionally encountered motor scooters. In Rabat, there was some vehicle traffic beyond the construction, but it was in an area without shops. Navigating the Rabat Medina was very easy. As the first Medina we visited, we had no comparison, but in retrospect, it was the smallest.

Looking down over one of Rabat Medina's alleyways
An elevated view of the Rabat Medina

Sensory Delights

The smell of food in the Rabat Medina was powerful. The tram side of the Medina had the most traffic. There were a few classy restaurants along the main road, but we chose a small restaurant inside the Medina. It had chicken shawarma roasting on a spit, and we both opted for the shawarma sandwich. The sandwiches were served with hand-cut, crisp, and fresh French fries. The shawarma was on a tortilla, pressed like a panini. It was served with harissa sauce, adding a tasty fire to the sandwich. The bill came to around five dollars with the tip. Incredible! The restaurant was very clean and had a great rooftop view.

Exploring Local Shops

Old school pay phone

Walking around the Rabat Medina, we noticed phone stores among the shops. They seemed to offer “top-up” cards, SIM cards, and prepaid phones. Some appeared to do repairs as well. The throwback advertising in these shops was interesting. We also noticed art shops with paintings depicting local scenes. One painting that caught my eye was of the horsemanship contest known as Fantasia. Although I did not buy it in Rabat, I eventually purchased a blue version in Essaouira.

Fantasia painting. I purchased one similar to this in Essouira
Painting of a small building in a mountainous area.

Relaxing in a Coffee Shop

After navigating the Rabat Medina, we took a break in a coffee shop. We noticed there were no women in the cafe except my wife. It seemed cafes were gathering places for men. After coffee, mint tea, and water, we ventured back out. We headed to the Bouregreg Marina for a stroll before returning to our hotel. The Medina was a fun place to explore. Ranked as the #7 place to visit in Rabat according to TripAdvisor, it is a must-see. Despite being touristy, it is also frequented by locals, giving visitors a true feel of Rabat.

Coffee and mint tea in a Rabat coffee shop. Surprisingly, the tea was not packed with fresh mint as we found in other areas of Morocco.
Another view of the coffee shop from inside.

Historical Insights into the Rabat Medina

The Rabat Medina is a historic quarter that dates back to the 12th century. It was established by the Almohad dynasty and later expanded by the Merenids in the 13th century. The Medina was strategically positioned near the Bouregreg River, facilitating trade and defense. Its well-preserved Andalusian architecture, narrow streets, and vibrant markets reflect a blend of Arab, Berber, and Andalusian influences. The Medina is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses the entire city of Rabat, recognized for its historical and cultural significance.

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Step Back in Time: The Roman Ruins of Volubilis, Morocco

The Roman Ruins of Volubilis, named after the ipomoea volubilis (morning glory) flower, are a captivating historical site located near Meknes, Morocco. These ancient ruins tell the story of a city that saw significant growth and transformation under Roman rule. The area was first inhabited around the third or fourth century BC by Berbers and Phoenicians.

Morning glories among the flowers and weeds at Volubilis

History of Volubilis

Around the first century, Volubilis expanded rapidly under Roman control, covering approximately 100 acres. Positioned at the southwestern edge of the Roman empire, the city was challenging to defend and eventually fell to local tribes. Before the arrival of Islam, Volubilis was a Christian city and later became the seat of government for Idris Ibn Abdallah, the founder of Morocco.

Ruins of Volubilis in Morocco

Volubilis was abandoned by the eleventh century but remained largely intact until an earthquake in the eighteenth century destroyed much of the city. The ruins were scavenged to build the nearby city of Meknes. Despite this, the site still offers a wealth of historical insights. The massive area has only been partially excavated, but portions of the ruins have been reconstructed to provide visitors with a glimpse of the original layout. While not as intact as some other Roman ruins, Volubilis still allows visitors to visualize the ancient city’s basic structure.

Area leading toward the ruins

The city was built on a high vantage point, providing stunning views of the surrounding low-lying natural areas. The ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which helps ensure their preservation for future generations. Despite this designation, many of the site’s mosaics remain unprotected from the elements. However, the United States funded a project in 2023 to protect some of the ancient tile work. The mosaics are remarkably well-preserved, with some having been reconstructed for visitors.

Mosaics at Volubilis

Mosaic at Volubilis

Mosaic at Volubilis

Exploring the Ruins of Volubilis

Walking through the ruins, visitors can explore various buildings and structures that have been preserved or reconstructed. These efforts aim to give insight into the city’s layout and the cultural aspects of the Roman era. The mosaics depict various scenes, offering glimpses into the games and religious observances of the time. Notable features of the site include a rebuilt press, a pool, an aqueduct, and other unique structures. The site’s extensive history and cultural significance make it a fascinating place to explore.

Museum display at Volubilis

Near the entrance to the ruins, several exhibits showcase columns, capitals, and other artifacts recovered from the site. There is also a small museum with models of the olive press found in the ruins, as well as small lanterns and sculptures. While the museum does not have an extensive collection, it is worth a visit for its informative and interesting exhibits.

Ruins at Volubilis

Admission and Hours

Entrance to the ruins is through a gate dating back to the second century. The admission fee is 70 dirhams, roughly nineteen US dollars, making it an affordable destination. The site is open from 8:30 am until an hour before sunset.

Ruins at Volubilis

Final Thoughts on My Visit to Volubilis

For history enthusiasts, a trip to Volubilis is a must. Despite being off the beaten path, it is well worth the detour. Located nearly midway between Rabat and Fez, the site requires a significant drive off the main route, but the journey is undeniably worthwhile. Volubilis is one of Morocco’s hidden treasures, offering a unique glimpse into the country’s rich historical tapestry.

Roman Ruins of Volubilis

The Roman Ruins of Volubilis offer an extraordinary journey through time, showcasing the city’s transformation under Roman rule, its Christian and Muslim heritage, and its role in the foundation of Morocco. The site’s historical significance, combined with its stunning mosaics and well-preserved structures, make it an essential destination for any history buff or cultural enthusiast visiting Morocco.

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Stay In Fez: Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel Comfortable and Inexpensive

During our visit to Fez, we stayed at the Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel. Located at Avenue Hassan II, the hotel is conveniently situated right off the main parkway. The modern-looking hotel appears to be part of a chain. As part of a tour group, our rooms were already assigned and ready upon arrival. Our room was on the third floor, not too far from the elevators.

Lobby of Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel

Barcelo Fes Medina Room Experience and Amenities

The Barcelo Fes Medina hotel had a modern look. The room required a key card to power the outlets. We noticed two beds rather than a king bed. Often, a “king” bed overseas is just two full beds pushed together. They offered to remake the beds while we were out for the day.

Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel room

When we returned, the beds were made up as promised. However, the dip in the middle can be a bit irritating. It is a minor inconvenience. The room had a modern look but needed some upkeep. The wallpaper was peeling, the shower couldn’t be fully set without flooding, and the toilet was slow to flush. Despite these issues, the room was very clean. Additionally, it appears this hotel recently underwent renovations.

View from our room at the Barcelo Fes Medina hotel

Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel Facilities and Location

The room faced the parkway, which was lively during our stay. Young families strolled along the plaza, and running clubs passed by. We were close to the elevators, where the wifi repeater was located. Unfortunately, the wifi was useless in the room but worked well in the common areas. The lobby had a large, open floor plan, giving it a modern European feel. The room price can be as low as 50-60 dollars per night, offering good value. Breakfast was included, with eggs made to order and a variety of hot and cold items.

Food at the hotel was good

The hotel is near a large mall and several cafes, offering plenty of dining options. During our stay, the hotel switched their system to air conditioning, making it the most comfortable room on our trip.

Final Impressions

The staff at Barcelo Fes Medina hotel were very accommodating, and the food was good. The location is convenient, with minor room repair issues and potential plumbing problems. Despite these, the room was comfortable and clean, with a modern feel needing slight updates. The hotel is currently ranked 48 out of 161 on TripAdvisor, and enjoys a four-star rating.

Overall, I had a favorable impression of the hotel and would consider staying there again in the future. It was a decent hotel at a reasonable price. Particularly since it appears that this hotel has undergone renovations recently.

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Navigating Fez Medina: Tips for Visiting Morocco’s Largest Market

The center of commerce and social interaction in Morocco gravitates toward her medinas. The medina is the old city, a place where merchants, tourists, and locals intersect. Of all the medinas in Morocco, Fez Medina may be the most famous.

Brightly colored flower petals at a Fez Medina merchant

The Maze of Fez Medina

Fez Medina is a labyrinth with over 9,400 streets and alleyways. It’s easy to get lost in the massive market. We traversed the medina with a guide, so getting in and out was not an issue. But I wouldn’t have wanted to navigate it alone.

Narrow alleyways in Fez Medina

Narrow Alleyways and Unique Sights

The most striking feature of Fez Medina is its narrow alleyways. It’s not uncommon to encounter a donkey or mule in the often narrow passageways. Winding through the medina offers exposure to the sights, sounds, and smells of Morocco. From grilled meat to bright fresh vegetables to the cacophony of barter, the marketplace is an assault on the senses. Navigating with a guide takes the pressure off, allowing us to absorb the culture of the ancient city.

Pack mules traversing Fez Medina
Brightly colored fruits and vegetables with an immaculate presentation.

Historical and Cultural Richness

Fez was founded in the ninth century and is home to the world’s oldest university. Fez was in its heyday in the Middle Ages when it served as the capital of Morocco. In some ways, it retains the heartbeat of Morocco, serving as a cultural capital, if not the political seat of government.

Fez was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1981. It is a culturally rich area that has retained a mystique largely embedded in the medina. No automobiles are permitted in the medina, allowing the area to retain an intimate connection with its past. Walls are often buttressed against each other with large beams visible to visitors among the narrow routes through the medina.

View of the historic medina from atop a carpet shop.

The Ubiquity of Cats and Other Animals

Cats are ubiquitous in Morocco. They aren’t necessarily pets, but they are taken care of communally, it seems. It was not uncommon for us to run into a cat with her kittens as we trekked through the medina. Aside from cats, we encountered a variety of other live animals, from horses to donkeys to chickens. The animals added to the market atmosphere of the medina.

Kittens explore the medina
Rooster
Package laden mule navigating the medina.

Visits to Key Stops

During this trip, we visited a madrassa, a carpet factory, and a leather shop. The leather shop was an experience unto itself. Here are a few additional photos of our other stops along the way.

Fez Medina Leatherworks

Leather dying area in medina

Fez Medina Madrassa

Madrasa inside the medina.

Fez Medina Carpet Shop

Carpet shop in Fez Medina

A Day Well Spent at the Fez Medina

We spent the better part of a day navigating the Fez Medina. It would be easy to spend a full day here. Or even two. We had the opportunity to buy carpets, leather, and a host of other crafts. I will leave you with some photographs of the medina that speak volumes more than what I could describe. You can get an idea for the eclectic feel of the place.

Olive Stand in the Fez Medina
Meat market

Treat shop in the medina

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Immerse Yourself in the Ancient Leather Tanneries of Fez Medina

One of Morocco’s iconic sights is the leather-works in Fez Medina. Navigating the labyrinth of alleyways, our group arrived at an unmarked door. We climbed a steep, narrow set of stairs, arriving in an outer room of a leather shop.

Leather goods inside the shop

The Mint Trick

We were handed sprigs of mint, which were surprisingly helpful. The leather tanning process has a strong odor, worsened by soaking hides in cow urine and pigeon poop.

Overlooking the Fez tannery
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The Leather-works Overview

We navigated through multiple rooms, ending up on balconies overlooking the processing area. From here, we saw vats of dye and drying skins everywhere. An employee explained the curing and dyeing process before we explored the shop.

Perspective view of the Fez tannery

Shopping for Leather Goods

The leather shops sell items made from camel, cow, goat, and sheep leather. Camel leather is the most expensive and durable. Some items still smelled foul, but the odor dissipates with time. Camel leather items did not have an offensive odor.

Goods for sale in the shop.

The Art of Bargaining

I bought a pouf, and my wife purchased a purse. Prices are inflated, so bargaining is essential. Items are expensive because they are genuine leather and merchants think tourists have money. Bargaining practices are crucial to getting a fair price.

Sensory Overload

The medina’s leather shops assault your senses with colors, textures, and smells. The colorful patterns and rich textures are visually stunning, but the smell is something you can’t forget.

Looking down from a balcony to the dye pools.

A Memorable Experience

Our trip to Morocco was filled with amazing sights, like goats climbing trees. Yet, the tanneries at Fez Medina stood out as one of the most iconic images of Morocco. The blend of history, hard work, and artistry made it worth the sensory overload. And yes, the mint helps.

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