Author: John

I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.

Exploring the Spiritual Secrets of Cappadocia: Göreme Open Air Museum

Our journey through Cappadocia led us to one of the region’s most remarkable historical sites: the Göreme Open Air Museum. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is not just a collection of ancient structures but a testament to the enduring faith and artistic brilliance of the people who once lived in this extraordinary landscape. Visiting the Göreme Open Air Museum was like stepping into a living history book. The past seemed to come alive through the rock-cut churches, monasteries, and dwellings that have stood the test of time.

Rock hewn dwellings at Göreme Open Air Museum

Göreme Open Air Museum’s Rich History

Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, the Göreme Open Air Museum is a monastic complex that dates back to the 10th to 12th centuries, during the Byzantine era. However, its roots stretch even further into history, with evidence of monastic activity as early as the 4th century. The museum is a collection of rock-hewn churches, chapels, monasteries, and dwellings carved directly into the soft volcanic rock that defines Cappadocia’s unique landscape. These structures served as places of worship, education, and community for the early Christian monks who sought refuge in this remote and rugged region.

Church carved into the volcanic rock

The history of the Göreme Open Air Museum is deeply intertwined with the spread of Christianity in Cappadocia. During the Roman period, Christians fled persecution and sought shelter in the caves and valleys of this region. Over time, these early Christians transformed the natural caves into elaborate monastic communities. Here, they created sanctuaries where they could practice their faith in peace and safety. By the 9th century, the area had become an important religious center, with monastic life flourishing and the construction of numerous rock-cut churches and monasteries.

Göreme Open Air Museum

Experiencing Göreme Open Air Museum

As we explored the Göreme Open Air Museum, we were struck by the intricacy and beauty of the frescoes that adorn many of the churches. These vibrant murals, painted with natural pigments, depict scenes from the Bible, the lives of saints, and the Passion of Christ. Despite the passage of centuries, the frescoes have retained their vivid colors and detail. The paintings offered us a glimpse into the spiritual life of the early Christian communities. The Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise), named for its small window and resulting dim interior, is particularly famous for its well-preserved frescoes, which stand as some of the best examples of Byzantine art in Cappadocia.

Well preserved fresco semi-exposed to elements at Göreme Open Air Museum

Each church within the museum has its own unique charm and historical significance. The Apple Church (Elmali Kilise), with its domed ceiling and frescoes of the Twelve Apostles, and the Snake Church (Yilanli Kilise), known for its depiction of St. George slaying the dragon, were among the highlights of our visit. As we wandered through the narrow passageways connecting these sacred spaces, we marveled at the skill and devotion that went into carving and decorating these hidden sanctuaries.

One of the hewn churches at Göreme Open Air Museum

The Göreme Open Air Museum also includes a number of monasteries, complete with communal dining halls, kitchens, and living quarters. These spaces provide insight into the daily lives of the monks who lived in seclusion, dedicating themselves to prayer, study, and the preservation of their faith. The stark simplicity of these rooms, in contrast to the richly decorated churches, highlighted the monks’ commitment to a life of austerity and spiritual discipline.

Simple communal dining room hewn into the rock

Reflections on our Visit

Our visit to the Göreme Open Air Museum was a profound and moving experience. It offered a window into the past, where we could feel the presence of the early Christians who once sought solace in these caves. Their legacy is etched into the very rock of Cappadocia, a testament to their faith, resilience, and creativity. There was at least one exhibit that required an additional fee, which seemed excessive, so we didn’t visit. But overall, the churches and dwellings we were able to visit were incredible.

Panoramic view of Goreme Open Air Museum.

For anyone visiting Cappadocia, the Göreme Open Air Museum is an absolute must-see. As a Christian, this visit was particularly poignant. It’s not just a place of historical importance but a spiritual journey that connects you with the region’s rich religious heritage. As we left the museum and gazed out over the surreal landscape of Cappadocia, we carried with us a deep sense of awe and respect for the people who once called this remarkable place their home.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Exploring the Ozkonak Underground City: An Ancient Christian Refuge

Our adventure in Cappadocia took an intriguing turn when we visited the Ozkonak Underground City, a fascinating subterranean complex carved into the region’s soft volcanic rock. Located about 14 kilometers northeast of Avanos, Ozkonak is one of several underground cities in Cappadocia, offering a unique glimpse into the ingenuity and resilience of ancient civilizations.

Entrance to Ozkonak Underground City

Arrival at Ozkonak Underground City

Stairway leading down to the Ozkonak Underground City

Upon arriving at the entrance of the Ozkonak Underground City, we were immediately struck by the site’s unassuming exterior. From the surface, it looked like a small, quiet village, but we knew that beneath our feet lay a sprawling network of tunnels, chambers, and passageways that had served as a refuge for countless people over the centuries.

History of Ozkonak Underground City

The history of Ozkonak dates back to the Hittites, who first started digging into the soft volcanic rock to create storage rooms and shelters. However, the city as we know it was significantly expanded during the Byzantine era, around the 5th and 10th centuries AD, primarily to provide protection from invading forces such as the Arabs during the Byzantine-Arab Wars.

Inside the underground city

The underground city was discovered by a local farmer in 1972. When Latif Acar started exploring where his excess crop water was disappearing to, he uncovered this amazing complex. The full complex contains ten levels, although only a few are currently open to the public. When fully operational, this underground city could sustain 60,000 people for three months. Secret passageways allowed them access. They were even able to shelter livestock here.

The People Who Built and Lived in Ozkonak

The inhabitants of Ozkonak were primarily early Christians seeking refuge from religious persecution. These communities needed safe havens where they could live, worship, and conduct their daily lives away from the threat of invaders. The underground cities provided not only physical protection but also a secret place to practice their faith.

Exploring the Ozkonak Underground City

As we descended into the depths of Ozkonak, we marveled at the complex architecture. The city is spread across several levels, with each level connected by narrow, sloping passageways. The ingenuity of the ancient builders was evident in the design of the city, which included living quarters, kitchens, storage rooms, stables, wineries, and even chapels.

Giant stone door used to seal off passageways.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Ozkonak is its advanced ventilation system. The builders created an extensive network of ventilation shafts to ensure a steady supply of fresh air throughout the city. Additionally, the city was equipped with strategically placed stone doors that could be rolled across entrances to block invaders and large stone wheels that served as security measures, allowing residents to seal off sections of the city.

Daily Life in the Underground City

Living in an underground city required considerable adaptation. The residents led lives that, while hidden from the world above, were bustling with activity below. Communal areas were designed for cooking and socializing, while individual living quarters provided privacy and space for families.

Steep narrow passages only allow for travel in one direction.

Water was sourced from deep wells, and waste was managed through a network of hidden shafts. The underground city also included communal chapels where residents could gather for religious services, reflecting the deep faith of the early Christian inhabitants.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to Ozkonak Underground City was a humbling experience. Walking through the dimly lit passageways and seeing the ingenuity of the ancient builders, we gained a profound respect for the resilience and resourcefulness of the people who once lived there. Their ability to create a thriving community underground, complete with all the necessities for daily life, is a testament to their determination to survive and protect their way of life.

For anyone visiting Cappadocia, the Ozkonak Underground City is a must-see. It offers a unique perspective on the region’s rich history and the incredible lengths to which people went to secure their safety and freedom. Our journey through the ancient tunnels of Ozkonak was not just a step back in time, but a powerful reminder of the enduring human spirit and the quest for sanctuary in the face of adversity.

As we emerged back into the sunlight (which required us to retrace our steps through the narrow passageways), we carried with us a deeper appreciation for the hidden histories beneath our feet and the remarkable legacy of the people who once called the Ozkonak Underground City their home.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Soaring Above Cappadocia: Epic Hot Air Balloon Ride

Our journey through Turkey was filled with many memorable experiences, but nothing compared to the breathtaking hot air balloon ride over the stunning landscape of Cappadocia. Well, almost nothing…Ephesus was particularly memorable as well. This enchanting region, known for its unique rock formations, ancient cave dwellings, and rich history, offers a hot air balloon experience that is truly unparalleled.

Early morning arrival at the balloon staging area

Early Morning Beginnings

Our adventure began in the early hours of the morning, long before the sun peeked over the horizon. We gathered in the lobby of the Dinler Hotel, where we were picked up and transported to the launch site. Despite the early hour, there was a buzz of excitement in the air. Other adventures gathered around as the balloons were offloaded and inflated. A variety of advertisements and colorful patterns dotted the field where the balloons were being inflated. Our trip was orchestrated through Kapadokya Balloons.

Inflating hot air balloons

Liftoff and Ascending

As dawn approached, our pilot called us over, and we climbed into the basket. The burners roared to life, and we gently lifted off the ground. The sensation of rising smoothly into the sky was both exhilarating and serene. Below us, the landscape of Cappadocia began to unfold in all its otherworldly glory.

The staging area was dotted with other balloons preparing to take flight

Aerial Views of Fairy Chimneys and Valleys

The balloon ride provided a bird’s-eye view of Cappadocia’s iconic fairy chimneys, valleys, and rock formations. As we floated higher, the sun began to rise, casting a golden glow over the terrain. The sight was nothing short of magical. The unique geological features, carved over millennia by wind and water, looked even more surreal from above. We drifted over ancient cave dwellings and rock-cut churches, remnants of a bygone era that added a sense of timelessness to the experience.

Silence and Solitude

One of the most striking aspects of the balloon ride was the profound silence. Aside from the occasional burst of the burner, there was an incredible stillness that made the experience deeply peaceful. We felt a sense of solitude and detachment from the world below, as if we were floating in a dream.

Capturing the Moment

Our balloon ride commences as other balloons ascend

We were sure to have our cameras ready to capture the breathtaking views. The colors, shadows, and textures of the landscape changed constantly as the sun climbed higher, offering countless photo opportunities. However, it was important to also put the cameras down occasionally and simply take in the moment, letting the beauty of Cappadocia imprint itself on our memories.

Descending and Landing

Our gondola. An amazing balloon ride ends with a precision landing on the trailer.

After about an hour of gliding through the sky, it was time to descend. Our pilot expertly guided the balloon back to the ground, landing smoothly on an awaiting trailer. The chase crew deftly helped secure the gondola to the trailer, which our gondolier landed with precision. While slightly jolting, the landing would have an earned a “10” at the Olympics.

Celebration and Reflection

Once back on solid ground, we celebrated with a traditional champagne toast, a custom that dates back to the early days of ballooning. We were presented with flight certificates as a memento of our incredible journey. As we sipped our champagne, we reflected on the experience and marveled at the beauty we had witnessed. The gondolier took photos throughout the journey, which were available for sale. I think the price was twenty dollars. We didn’t purchase any.

Final Thoughts on Our Balloon Ride

Grainy pre-sunrise photo of a balloon firing up as it ascends

Our hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia was an experience we will never forget. It offered a unique perspective on one of Turkey’s most beautiful regions, allowing us to see its landscapes in a way that few other experiences can provide. For anyone visiting Cappadocia, a hot air balloon ride is an absolute must. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that combines excitement, serenity, and unparalleled natural beauty. As we left Cappadocia, we carried with us not only photographs and souvenirs but also a sense of awe and appreciation for the remarkable landscapes and the timeless spirit of adventure.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Our Amazing Stay at Dinler Hotel in Urgup

Our adventure through Turkey brought us to the charming town of Ürgüp, nestled in the heart of Cappadocia. Known for its unique rock formations, ancient cave dwellings, and rich history, Ürgüp offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Our base for exploring this enchanting region was the Dinler Hotel, a well-appointed establishment that provided a perfect blend of comfort and hospitality.

Dinler Hotel Exterior

We were particularly excited about this portion of our trip to Turkey. We scheduled a hot air balloon for the morning after arrival. However, we were equally excited about the deep connections to Christianity in the Cappadocia region. We were in store for an amazing visit in the heart of Turkey.

Arrival and First Impressions

Upon arriving at Dinler Hotel, we were immediately struck by its welcoming ambiance. The spacious lobby was modern and clean. The friendly and efficient staff greeted us warmly, making the check-in process smooth and pleasant.

Hot Air Balloons in Capadoccia

The lobby, with its comfortable seating areas and tasteful decor, set a positive tone for our stay. The attention to detail was evident in the elegant furnishings and the serene atmosphere, which provided a relaxing refuge from our travels. Between the lobby area and adjacent bar, there was plenty of room to spread out. We gathered in the small alcove beyond the check-in desk for our hot air balloon ride, relaxing in plush chairs until everyone was ready to go.

Comfortable Accommodations

Our room at Dinler Hotel was comfortable, featuring modern amenities while maintaining a cozy, inviting feel. A good bed, ample storage space, and a clean, well-maintained bathroom ensured a restful and enjoyable stay. Our room also offered a stunning view of the surrounding landscape. I read a few reviews complaining about the view, but ours was excellent. It may be luck of the draw.

Dining at Dinler Hotel

One of the highlights of our stay was the dining experience at Dinler Hotel. The hotel’s restaurant offered a wide spread of delicious dishes, showcasing both local Turkish cuisine and international favorites. Breakfast was a delightful spread of fresh fruits, pastries, cheeses, and hot items, providing a great start to our day. Dinner was equally impressive, with a diverse menu that catered to all tastes.

Dinler Restaurant (hotel photo)

We particularly enjoyed the traditional Turkish dishes, which were prepared with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. The flavors were rich and authentic, and the presentation was always impeccable. The attentive staff ensured that our dining experience was pleasant and memorable. I seem to recall that this hotel had the best food of any on our two-week journey through Turkey.

Exploring Dinler Hotel Amenities

Dinler Hotel boasts a variety of amenities designed to enhance the guest experience. We did not have time to take advantage of the indoor pool and spa. It was also a bit chilly for an outdoor pool. But our first evening was spent exploring the nearby (walking distance) town. The following day included riding in a hot air balloon and exploring the caves and rock formations nearby.

Last Supper depiction in Elevator Lobby on our Floor at Dinler Hotel.

The hotel also features a fitness center, tennis courts, and beautifully landscaped gardens, offering plenty of options for recreation and relaxation. If your visit is not packed with other activities, you might enjoy a leisurely stroll through the gardens or working out in the gym. We just didn’t have time.

Discovering Cappadocia

Dinler Hotel’s location in Ürgüp made it an ideal base for exploring the wonders of Cappadocia. Nearby attractions include otherworldly landscapes of the Göreme National Park to the ancient cave dwellings and fairy chimneys. Every excursion we experienced in Cappadocia was a fascinating adventure.

Cave Dwellings in Capadoccia

One of the most unforgettable experiences was a hot air balloon ride at sunrise, offering a bird’s-eye view of Cappadocia’s surreal terrain. Floating above the valleys and rock formations, we were awestruck by the beauty and tranquility of the region. The Fairy Chimney’s take on an entirely different perspective from the air.

Reflections on Our Stay at Dinler Hotel

Our stay at Dinler Hotel in Ürgüp was truly memorable. The hotel’s blend of comfort, hospitality, and excellent amenities made it a perfect choice for our Cappadocia adventure. The warm and welcoming staff, delicious dining options, and luxurious accommodations exceeded our expectations, providing a delightful and relaxing retreat.

For anyone planning a trip to Cappadocia, we highly recommend staying at Dinler Hotel. It offers a perfect balance of luxury and local charm, ensuring a comfortable and enriching (and affordable) experience. Whether you’re exploring the historic sites, enjoying the natural beauty, or simply relaxing at the hotel, Dinler Hotel in Ürgüp is the perfect place to create lasting memories.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

A Delightful Home-Hosted Lunch in Guzelyurt

As we journeyed through the heart of Turkey, we had the unique opportunity to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Turkish people firsthand during a home-hosted lunch in the charming town of Guzelyurt. This small, picturesque village is known for its stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage, but it was the genuine connection with our hosts that made our visit truly unforgettable. It also felt off the “beaten path” of tourism, giving us a glimpse into Turkish life.

View from the courtyard of our host home.

A Warm Welcome

Arriving in Guzelyurt, we walked down several narrow roads to arrive at the home of our host. We were greeted by the smiling faces of our hosts, a local family who opened their home to us with open arms. The family consisted of a gracious couple, their son (who has an award-winning smile) and extended family members who helped prepare our meal. Their home, a quaint and cozy dwelling nestled among the rugged terrain, exuded a sense of warmth and authenticity.

It was interesting to see Christian iconography in the structure where we took our meal. Guzelyurt was once predominantly Christian. Because Turkey and Greece were both part of the Ottoman Empire, there were many Muslims in Greece and many Christians in Turkey. In 1924, there was a population swap between Greece and Turkey, relocating many of the Turkish Christians to Greece and many Greek Muslims to Turkey. Our gracious Muslim hosts shared some of that history with us during our visit.

A Vegetarian Feast

Freshly baked bread at Home-Hosted Lunch in Guzelyurt

As we sat down for lunch, we were presented with a feast that featured amazing vegetarian cuisine. The meal was served in multiple courses, beginning with bread and a yogurt-based dip. This was followed with an amazing lentil soup that I found it hard to believe was vegetarian. It was hearty and flavorful. We were also served root vegetables and cabbage.

Birthday Cake at Home-Hosted Lunch in Guzelyurt

One of our fellow travelers was celebrating a birthday during our visit. We were surprised when our host brought out an amazing home-made cake. The cake was layered with local berries and banana slices. The cake was delicious as well.

Conversation and Connection

What made the lunch truly special was the conversation and connection we shared with our hosts. We learned about their daily lives, their hopes and dreams, and their perspectives on the world. In turn, we shared our own stories and experiences, finding common ground despite the differences in our backgrounds. The son, an incredibly bright young man, shared his desire to become a tour guide.

Our hosts were eager to practice their English, and we enjoyed a few laughs over our attempts at Turkish phrases. The son was especially curious about our lives back home, asking questions about our favorite foods and pop culture. This exchange of ideas was enriching for all of us, fostering a sense of mutual respect and understanding.

Reflections on Our Visit

As we left Guzelyurt, we carried with us more than just the memories of a delicious meal. We felt a deep appreciation for the hospitality and kindness extended to us by our hosts. Their generosity and openness made us feel like part of their family, even if only for a short time. The father and son escorted us back to our bus, giving us additional time to chat.

Guzelyurt

Our home-hosted lunch in Guzelyurt was a highlight of our trip through Turkey, offering a rare and intimate glimpse into the daily life of a local family. It reminded us of the universal bonds that connect us all, transcending language and cultural barriers. For anyone traveling through Turkey, I highly recommend seeking out such experiences. They provide a deeper, more personal understanding of the country and its people, enriching your journey in ways that traditional sightseeing cannot.

Guzelyurt and its people left an indelible mark on our hearts, and we departed with a sense of gratitude. Our visit was a testament to the enduring power of hospitality and human connection, something we will cherish for years to come.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Sultanhan Caravanserai: A Journey on the Ancient Silk Road

On our journey through Turkey, we found ourselves stepping back in time at the Sultanhan Caravanserai. This ancient roadside inn is an impressive example of Seljuk architecture. Located in the small town of Sultanhanı, this caravanserai is one of the largest and best-preserved in the country, offering a fascinating glimpse into the lives of travelers and traders from centuries past. These stopping points were roadside inns for travelers in bygone eras.

Entrance to Sultanhan Caravanserai

Arrival at Sultanhan Caravanserai

As we approached the caravanserai, the massive stone structure loomed before us. Its formidable walls and intricate stonework immediately commanded our attention. The grand entrance, adorned with ornate carvings and an imposing wooden door, hinted at the rich history contained within.

Sultanhan Caravanserai central courtyard.

History of the Sultanhan Caravanserai

The Sultanhan Caravanserai was built in 1229 by Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I during the Seljuk period. These caravanserais, or “han,” were constructed along trade routes to provide shelter, food, and safety for merchants and travelers. Sultanhan, strategically located on the ancient Silk Road, was a crucial stopover for caravans carrying goods between Asia and Europe. The Seljuks, known for their architectural prowess, designed these structures to be both functional and grand, reflecting the importance of trade in their empire.

Large doors at the fortified entrance to the Caravanserai (looking towards the exit).

The Central Courtyard

Walking through the entrance, we were immediately transported to a bygone era. We entered the central courtyard and marveled at the high stone walls and arched porticos. The layout was meticulously planned to accommodate various needs: stables for animals, storage rooms for goods, and lodging for travelers. The architecture, with its detailed stone carvings and robust construction, showcased the Seljuk’s blend of functionality and artistry.

The caravanserai’s most striking feature is the impressive prayer room, or mescit, situated on a raised platform in the center of the courtyard. This elevated position symbolized the importance of faith in daily life, even during long and arduous journeys. The mescit, with its ornate stone carvings and tranquil atmosphere, provided a place of solace and reflection for weary travelers.

The Winter Hall

Winter Hall

Exploring further, we ventured into the covered section of the caravanserai, known as the winter hall. This large, vaulted space was designed to offer protection from the harsh weather, with thick stone walls insulating against the cold. The dimly lit hall, with its high ceilings and narrow windows, created an almost mystical ambiance, allowing us to imagine the bustling activity that once filled this space.

A closer look at the dome in the Winter Hall

Storage Rooms and More

As we wandered through the various rooms and corridors, we couldn’t help but marvel at the ingenuity and foresight of the Seljuk architects. The caravanserai was a self-sufficient hub, equipped with everything a traveler might need, from kitchens and baths to a small mosque. This blend of practicality and luxury made it a sanctuary for traders navigating the treacherous Silk Road.

Smaller storage rooms inside the Caravanserai

Reflections on Our Visit to Sultanhan Caravanserai

Reflecting on our visit, we were struck by the enduring legacy of the Sultanhan Caravanserai. It stands as a testament to the importance of trade in shaping civilizations and fostering cultural exchange. The caravanserai not only provided shelter but also facilitated connections between diverse peoples, contributing to the rich tapestry of human history.

For modern travelers, a visit to the Sultanhan Caravanserai is a journey into the past, offering a tangible link to the stories of merchants and adventurers who traversed the ancient Silk Road. It’s a place where history comes alive, allowing us to appreciate the ingenuity and resilience of those who came before us.

Display of carpets inside the Winter Hall

If you find yourself exploring the heart of Turkey, a stop at the Sultanhan Caravanserai is a must. It’s a captivating blend of history, architecture, and culture that will leave you with a deeper appreciation for the enduring spirit of travel and exploration. While our visit may have had a different purpose than the traders of years gone by, I felt a common thread. Maybe just as a traveler passing through a distant land, but I had an appreciation for this ancient roadside inn.

Read more about our Adventures in Turkey:

Mevlana Museum: A Visual History of Rumi’s Sufi Mysticism

On our journey through Turkey, we had the privilege of visiting the Mevlana Müzesi (Mevlana Museum) in Konya. This museum is not just a historical site but a spiritual beacon that draws visitors from around the world to explore the life and teachings of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, the 13th-century Persian poet, Islamic scholar, and Sufi mystic.

Exterior of Mevlana Museum

Arrival at the Mevlana Museum

As we approached the Mevlana Museum, the iconic green dome of the mausoleum stood out against the Konya skyline. The museum complex, which includes Rumi’s tomb, is surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, providing a serene atmosphere that invites reflection. The entrance to the museum was bustling with visitors donning disposable blue foot coverings.

The Spiritual Ambiance

Interior of the museum from entrance

Upon entering the museum, we were enveloped by a sense of tranquility. The soft murmurs of visitors, the scent of incense, and the sight of devout followers praying created a spiritual ambiance that was both calming and uplifting. The museum is housed in a former dervish lodge, where Rumi lived, taught, and wrote many of his famous works.

Exploring the Mevlana Museum Exhibits

The museum’s exhibits are a treasure trove of artifacts, manuscripts, and personal items belonging to Rumi and his followers. One of the first exhibits we encountered was a collection of Rumi’s original manuscripts. Seeing the delicate calligraphy and ancient paper brought a tangible connection to the past, highlighting Rumi’s enduring influence on literature and spirituality.

9th Century calligraphy taken from 19th Chapter of Koran (Jesus' Virgin Birth).

We also explored displays of musical instruments used in Sufi ceremonies, intricately designed prayer rugs, and robes worn by dervishes. Each artifact told a story of devotion and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. Particularly fascinating were the beautifully illuminated Qurans and the detailed explanations of Sufi rituals and practices.

Rumi’s Tomb

The heart of the Mevlana Museum is undoubtedly Rumi’s tomb. The tomb, adorned with intricate tile work and Arabic calligraphy, is a masterpiece of Islamic art. As we stood before it, we could feel the reverence that permeates the room. Pilgrims from all over the world come here to pay their respects, and the atmosphere is one of profound respect and contemplation.

Rumi's Tomb at Mevlana Museum

We spent some time in quiet reflection, absorbing the significance of this place. The tomb is not just a resting place for Rumi but a symbol of his spiritual journey and his teachings of love, tolerance, and the unity of all beings.

The Semahane

Another highlight of our visit was the Semahane, the hall where the Whirling Dervishes perform their mesmerizing Sema ceremonies. This ritual dance, characterized by the dervishes’ spinning motion, symbolizes the soul’s journey towards God. While we didn’t witness a live performance, the exhibits and multimedia displays provided a deep understanding of this spiritual practice.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to the Mevlana Museum was a deeply moving experience. It offered not just a glimpse into the life of one of history’s greatest mystics but also a profound sense of spiritual connection. Rumi’s message of love and unity transcends time and cultural boundaries, and standing in the place where he lived and taught was incredibly inspiring.

Exterior of Mevlana Museum

For anyone traveling through Turkey, a visit to the Mevlana Museum is a must. It’s not just a historical site but a journey into the heart of Sufi spirituality. Whether you’re a follower of Rumi’s teachings, a lover of poetry, or simply a curious traveler, the Mevlana Museum offers an enriching experience that will leave you with a deeper appreciation of the spiritual heritage of Turkey.

As we left the museum, the words of Rumi echoed in our minds: “Come, come, whoever you are. Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving. It doesn’t matter. Ours is not a caravan of despair. Come, even if you have broken your vows a thousand times. Come, yet again, come, come.” These words encapsulate the inclusive and loving spirit of Rumi and left us with a sense of inspiration.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel: A Dated But Comfortable Stay

After a chilly day of exploring the historical wonders of Hierapolis and the stunning travertine terraces of Pamukkale, we were ready for some relaxation. Our destination for the night was the Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel, a well-regarded establishment known for its thermal pools and spa services. Here’s a glimpse into our experience.

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

A Warm Welcome to Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

Upon arriving at Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel, we were greeted with a warm welcome by the friendly staff. The check-in process was smooth and efficient, allowing us to quickly settle into our room. The lobby, adorned with modern decor and comfortable seating areas, set a positive tone for our stay.

Comfortable Accommodations

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel room taken from hotel website.

Getting to our room involved a maze of hallways and an elevator. It seemed far from the lobby, dining and spa, but also on a quiet hall. Our room was clean, and well-appointed with all the necessary amenities for a comfortable stay. The bed was cozy, and the room featured a rather mundane view of the parking lot. While the decor was a bit dated, the overall comfort and cleanliness made up for it. Most importantly, the bed was comfortable to offer a good night’s sleep.

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel Dining Experience

Dessert bar from hotel website.

One of the highlights of our stay was the dining experience. The hotel’s massive restaurant offered a diverse buffet with a wide range of Turkish and international dishes. The size of the restaurant meant that it was crowded and noisy. But the food was good. Breakfast featured a variety of fresh fruits, pastries, and hot items, providing a great start to our day. Dinner was equally impressive, with a selection of well-prepared dishes that catered to different tastes. The attentive staff ensured that our dining experience was pleasant and enjoyable.

Local musician performing outside hotel restaurant.

In addition to the quality of the food, I would also note that the hotel had live music outside the restaurant. It was interesting to hear a local musician providing some cultural enrichment prior to our meal.

Thermal Pools and Spa

The Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel features thermal pools and spa facilities. The hotel boasts several thermal pools, both indoor and outdoor, filled with mineral-rich waters known for their therapeutic properties. We went outside to look at the pool area and also visited the indoor pool, but we did not swim. It was far too cold and rainy to swim outside. The indoor pool required renting a head covering, which was relatively inexpensive. But we opted to forego swimming in favor of a hot cup of coffee in the lobby.

indoor pool photo taken from hotel website.

The spa offered a range of treatments, including massages, facials, and traditional Turkish baths. While we skipped the pools and spa, other travelers in our group did both. I heard a good report regarding the massages.

Other Amenities

Tennis courts from Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel website

In addition to the thermal pools and spa, the hotel featured a variety of other amenities, including a fitness center, tennis courts, and a well-maintained garden area. While the weather was not conducive to explore all of these facilities, it was nice to know they were available.

Final Reflections on Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

Our stay at Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel was above average, offering a comfortable and relaxing retreat after our adventures in Hierapolis and Pamukkale. While the hotel’s decor could use a modern update, the overall experience was positive, thanks to the friendly staff, good food, and excellent wellness facilities.

Lobby taken from from hotel website.

For travelers visiting the Pamukkale area, Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel offers a good balance of comfort, relaxation, and convenience. It’s a reasonable choice for those looking to explore the historical sites during the day and enjoy a bit of pampering in the evenings. Two of the hotels ranked higher on Trip Advisor appeared to have comparable prices, so I might also opt for one of those for any future stay. Overall, it was a comfortable overnight reprieve on our journey through the heart of Turkey.

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Hiking to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church in Hierapolis

After an exhilarating journey through the ancient wonders of Hierapolis, our next destination held a particularly profound significance: the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip. This site, nestled in the rugged terrain of Hierapolis, promised an enriching blend of history, spirituality, and adventure.

Finding Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis

Sign pointing toward Martyrium of Saint Philip

Our adventure began with a sense of mystery. Having heard varying reports about the site’s accessibility, we were determined to uncover its secrets for ourselves. Despite a local guide’s discouragement, we noticed a sign pointing toward the wilderness and decided to venture out on our own. The path was rugged and less traveled, adding to the anticipation of what lay ahead.

Road towards Martyrium of Saint Philip.

We approached the location from what appeared to be an ancient road. However, what remained was an often rugged climb. Overturned stones pointed toward an approach that was once paved for a great distance. However, as we neared the location of the church and tomb, many of the pavers were intact. There were also a steep set of stairs that were still navigable.

Remnants of a former road
Intact stairs leading to the tomb of Philip

Discovering the Tomb of Philip

Structure believed to be the tomb of Saint Philip

After our arduous trek up the steep terrain, we found the Tomb of Philip, discovered around 2011. The tomb, though likely emptied of its original contents centuries ago, was a powerful reminder of the apostle’s enduring legacy. According to historical accounts and sixth-century artifacts like the “bread stamp,” the proximity of the tomb to the church lends credibility to the site’s significance. Historians have dated this location to the first century AD, adding to its provenance.

Remnants of a church that once stood at the tomb

The tomb’s discovery has added a new layer of historical importance to the area, drawing scholars and pilgrims alike. Standing before the tomb, we felt a profound connection to the early Christian era and the spread of Christianity through such remote regions. The tomb itself appears to be part of another ancient church, with the apse located toward the pillars in this photo.

The Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

The moment we reached the ruins of the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church, we were struck by its serene isolation and historical significance. This octagonal church, built around the 4th or 5th century, stands as a testament to early Christian architecture and devotion. The church is believed to have been constructed to honor Saint Philip, one of the Twelve Apostles, who was martyred here. Legend says that he was martyred in 80 AD, being crucified upside down.

Remnants of Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

Walking through the remains of the church, we marveled at the structural ingenuity and the sense of reverence that pervaded the site. The octagonal shape of the church, though now mostly in ruins, still conveyed a sense of symmetry and sacred geometry. It was awe-inspiring to think about the early Christians who once worshiped in this very place.

Panoramic photo of the interior octagon area of the church.

The Serenity of Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

View of the distant hot springs from the Martyrium

One of the most remarkable aspects of our visit was the solitude. Unlike more frequented tourist spots, the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip were almost devoid of visitors. This gave us the rare opportunity to explore the ruins in peace, absorbing the history and spirituality of the place without distractions.

Reflections on Our Visit

Pilgrim's Fountain where spring water once offered a place for visitors to wash before entering the church.

Our visit to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip was a deeply moving experience. It offered us not just a glimpse into the architectural and religious history of early Christianity, but also a moment of personal reflection and connection to the past. The journey to the site, with its mix of rugged adventure and serene discovery, made the experience even more memorable.

Final Thoughts

For anyone interested in Biblical history, the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip are must-see destinations at Hierapolis. They provide a unique insight into the early Christian history and the enduring legacy of Saint Philip. This hidden gem, away from the more crowded sites, offers a tranquil and spiritually enriching experience that is well worth the effort. This trek requires good shoes and a bit of effort. Not recommended for anyone who might have difficulty climbing steep or rugged terrain.

Steps leading down from tomb of Saint Philip to a bridge crossing a ravine.

Our exploration of these sacred ruins added a profound dimension to our trip, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of history that Hierapolis has to offer. If you ever find yourself in this ancient city, make sure to take the path less traveled to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip – it’s a journey you won’t forget.

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Ancient Hierapolis: A Scenic, Biblical and Historic City

After an amazing visit to the Aegean coast of Turkey, we headed inland toward Hierapolis. It was cold with a light drizzling rain on the day we visited. But the rain and cold did nothing to dampen our excitement. This ancient, Biblical location is as scenic as it is historic.

Trevartines at Hierapolis.

Hierapolis is steeped in history and renowned for its unique combination of natural beauty and historical significance. Nestled near the modern town of Pamukkale, Hierapolis offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient civilizations. The site is a combination of well-preserved ruins and stunning travertine terraces. This extraordinary place is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A Brief History of Hierapolis

Hierapolis, founded in the 2nd century BC by the Attalid kings of Pergamon, was originally a thermal spa and a major center for healing. The city’s name, derived from the Greek word “Hiera” meaning “holy,” reflects its long-standing association with sacred rituals and healing practices. The thermal springs, rich in minerals, have been used for therapeutic purposes since ancient times, attracting people from all over the region.

Map of ancient Hierapolis

The city flourished under Roman rule, becoming an important cultural and religious center. It was known for its grand temples, theaters, and public baths. Hierapolis also became a significant early Christian site, with the Apostle Philip said to have been martyred here. The city continued to prosper until it was devastated by a series of earthquakes, with the final one in the 14th century leading to its abandonment.

Arrival at Hierapolis and the Thermal Pools of Pamukkale

Our journey to Hierapolis began with a breathtaking view of the iconic white travertine terraces of Pamukkale, also known as the “Cotton Castle.” These natural wonders, formed by calcium-rich thermal waters cascading down the hillside, create a stunning landscape of terraces and pools. The sight of the terraces, gleaming in the sunlight, was truly awe-inspiring.

Darker pools at Hierapolis

As we walked along the travertines, we noticed that the water fed one section of the terraces, while another section appeared darker. Our guide explained that the springs are directed to one section due to the amount of water they produce. Because fresh spring water is not filling the other pools, they turn dark over time. I can’t vouch for the accuracy, but I have included a photo of the darker pools.

Visitors dipping their feet into the pools,

Because it was a chilly day, we opted to take photos, while other visitors removed their shoes to enter the pools for photos. The therapeutic properties of the water, rich in minerals, have been cherished for centuries. However, this is more of an iconic photo than a healing spa today. It was amazing to see, but you have to get just the right angle to capture the magic of the white travertines.

Exploring the Ruins of Hierapolis

Entering the ancient city of Hierapolis, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of its ruins. The site is vast, with a variety of structures that tell the story of its illustrious past. We explored the ruins on our own, allowing us to choose the sites we wanted to explore.

HIerapolis Theater

Distant view of Hierapolis Theater.

On of the most prominent features of the site is the Hierapolis Theater. It is one of the best-preserved ancient theaters in Turkey. Built during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, the theater could accommodate up to 15,000 spectators. We began to venture up the steep hill to the theater, but opted to take our photos from a distance, because we wanted to see if we could find an ancient church nearby.

Temple of apollo

Temple of Apollo

Another ruins we visited was the Temple of Apollo, which was central to the city’s religious life. This temple, dedicated to the god of healing and prophecy, was built on a site believed to be an ancient oracle. The remains of the temple, including its columns and altar, still convey a sense of the sacred and the mysterious.

Necropolis of Hierapolis

Remnants of sarcophagi at Necropolis of Hierapolis

The Necropolis of Hierapolis was another memorable aspect of our visit. This extensive cemetery, one of the largest in Turkey, features a wide range of tombs and sarcophagi, reflecting the diverse cultural and religious influences that shaped the city.

Rather than walking through the Necropolis we opted to drive. We had walked quite a bit and it was a chilly day. The rain had also become a bit more steady by the time we were ready to leave. The necropolis led us toward the exit. Near the exit, we got out of our van to take some photos. We were fascinated by the variety of burial styles and the inscriptions that provide insights into the lives of the people who lived here.

Plutonium

We also explored the Plutonium, a religious site dedicated to Pluto, the god of the underworld. This cave was believed to be an entrance to the underworld, and its lethal vapors were used by priests for rituals. The Plutonium is a testament to the deep spiritual and mystical significance of Hierapolis.

Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church

Sign pointing into the wilderness indicating the location of the Church of Saint Philip.

The most memorable site we visited, was the Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church. We almost missed this amazing ruins. It is in the wilderness up a rugged climb from the main section of Hierapolis. I actually asked a local guide about this location, but he told me there was nothing to see and not to bother. I don’t know why this guide lied to me, but my wife and I saw a sign pointing toward the wilderness and ventured out on our own.

Saint Philip's Tomb at Hierapolis

What we found was not “nothing.” In fact, the ruins of the ancient church are still largely visible. The large octagonal church is believed to have been built around the fourth or fifth century. Around 2011, the tomb of Philip was also discovered nearby. The two structures are evident on a sixth-century “bread stamp” lending some provenance to these historic structures. While the remains of Philip were likely removed to Rome centuries ago, it was amazing to walk through these ancient ruins which were largely intact. And we had the ruins to ourselves to explore.

Panoramic view of Church of Saint Philip. Octagon pillars indicate the central area was very large.

The Antique Pool: A Dip in History

Antique Pool

One of the unique experiences Hierapolis offers is a swim in the Antique Pool, also known as Cleopatra’s Pool. This thermal pool, fed by the same mineral-rich waters that flow through Pamukkale, is dotted with ancient marble columns and stones, believed to have fallen during an earthquake. The warm, clear waters are not only relaxing but also rich in minerals. We opted not to swim as it was a cold, rainy day, but there were a few people enjoying the pool.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to Hierapolis was a journey through time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The blend of natural beauty and historical significance makes this site a unique destination for travelers. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of natural wonders, or someone seeking a relaxing retreat, Hierapolis has something to offer.

Southern Byzantine Gate

From the therapeutic waters of Pamukkale’s travertine terraces to the majestic ruins of an ancient city, Hierapolis is a place that captivates the imagination and enriches the soul. Our exploration of this remarkable site was a highlight of our trip to Turkey, leaving us with memories of a truly unforgettable experience.

Pools at Hierapolis

For those planning a visit to Turkey, a trip to Hierapolis and Pamukkale is a must. It’s not just a journey into the past, but an opportunity to experience the healing powers of nature and the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations. The pools are iconic.

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