Author: John

I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.

Ephesus Museum: Rich History, Timeless Art

After exploring the ruins of Ephesus and a hearty home-cooked lunch, our journey through Turkey’s ancient wonders led us to the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk. This museum houses a remarkable collection of artifacts unearthed from the ancient city. Our visit offered an enriching extension to our exploration of Ephesus. Here’s a glimpse into our fascinating trip to the museum.

Arrival at the Ephesus Museum

Early example of Artemis statue

Located in the heart of Selçuk, the Ephesus Museum is easily accessible and a must-visit for history enthusiasts. As we arrived, the modern exterior of the museum contrasted sharply with the ancient treasures inside, heightening our anticipation.

The Hall of Artemis

Our first stop was the Hall of Artemis, dedicated to artifacts associated with the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The statues of Artemis, with her multiple breasts symbolizing fertility, were particularly striking. The detailed carvings and the sheer size of the statues gave us a sense of the temple’s former grandeur.

The Marble Hall

Exhibit at the Ephesus Museum

Next, we ventured into the Marble Hall, home to some of the most exquisite sculptures from Ephesus. Among the highlights were the statues of the Roman emperors, gods, and goddesses, each intricately crafted with remarkable detail. The statue of the Emperor Augustus, standing tall and imposing, left a lasting impression with its lifelike features and commanding presence.

The Hall of the Mother Goddess

This hall focused on the various forms of the Mother Goddess worshiped in Ephesus. The collection included statues and reliefs that illustrated the evolution of this deity from prehistoric times through the Hellenistic and Roman periods. The artifacts here underscored the long-standing spiritual significance of the region.

The Gladiator Room

One of the most exciting sections of the museum was the Gladiator Room. It showcased artifacts related to the gladiators who once fought in the grand theater of Ephesus. Helmets, weapons, and detailed tombstones of gladiators provided a glimpse into their harsh and often brutal lives. The intricacies of the carvings and the preserved nature of these items were fascinating.

The House of the Rich

We were particularly captivated by the exhibits from the Terrace Houses, also known as the Houses of the Rich. These artifacts, including intricate mosaics, frescoes, and household items, offered a peek into the luxurious lifestyles of Ephesus’s wealthy residents. The preservation of these items was astounding, making it easy to imagine daily life in ancient Ephesus.

The Ephesus Through the Ages Hall

Our journey continued through the Ephesus Through the Ages Hall, which showcased the city’s evolution from its earliest settlement through the Roman era and beyond. The timeline of artifacts, including pottery, coins, and tools, painted a vivid picture of the city’s rich history and cultural development. I was particularly interested in the coins, but realized I didn’t take any photos of them.

Reflecting on Our Visit to Ephesus Museum

Statue at the Ephesus Museum

Our visit to the Ephesus Museum was a deeply enriching experience. The museum’s collection brought the ancient city of Ephesus to life, offering insights into the lives of its inhabitants and the city’s historical significance. Each artifact told a story, adding depth and context to our earlier exploration of the ruins.

The Ephesus Museum is a treasure trove of history and culture. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in the ancient world. Whether you are a seasoned historian or a curious traveler, the museum offers a profound connection to the past, leaving you with a greater appreciation for the legacy of Ephesus.

Statue at Ephesus Museum

The Ephesus Museum was a nice complement to our visit to historic Ephesus. But nothing compares to the sheer scale and detail of walking the streets of Ephesus. The ruins were, simply put, the most remarkable we have ever visited. While many of the exhibits were taken from Ephesus, the museum was just a reflection of the magnificence of the ruins. With that in mind, it was nice to walk through the exhibits and learn more about the history of Ephesus through its different eras.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

A Home Cooked Feast at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our exploration of the ancient wonders in Selçuk, Turkey, took us on an unforgettable journey through history. After a morning spent marveling at the ruins of Ephesus, we found ourselves craving a taste of authentic Turkish cuisine. Our tour included lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant, a charming family-run establishment that promised a culinary adventure as enriching as our historical tour.

Amazing spread at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our Warm Welcome to Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Located in the heart of Selçuk, Bizim Ev Hanimeli immediately stood out with its inviting facade and cozy ambiance. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by the warm smiles of the staff and the comforting aroma of home-cooked food. The interior was adorned with traditional Turkish decor, creating a homely atmosphere that made us feel instantly at ease.

An Authentic Turkish Experience

The buffet was, simply, amazing. My plate was hardly big enough to pile on the selection of home-cooked traditional fare. The family vibe was apparent from the cooking to our interactions with the proprietor. I wanted to sample everything, but simply couldn’t try it all. There were dozens of options that included soups, beans, sauteed vegetables, meats, and more. I filled my plate to its capacity and settled in to eat.

My Mother's Kitchen written by owner Cansu Mercan Tucker

While we were eating, we met with Celil and Emel, our hosts. We had the opportunity to purchase a book of recipes, handed down from mother to daughter. The book, My Mother’s Kitchen, is written by Cansu Mercan Tucker who owns the restaurant. Celil took the photographs included in the book. This operation is truly a family affair. My wife and I purchased a copy of the book which Celil and Emel autographed for us.

Autographed book from the owners of Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

A Sweet Ending

No meal in Turkey would be complete without indulging in some traditional desserts. After speaking with Celil and Emel, I headed back to the buffet for something sweet, settling for a semolina dessert that was amazing. My wife tried the yogurt cake which was also very good.

A Taste of Turkish Hospitality

One of the most memorable aspects of our lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli was the genuine hospitality of the staff. They took the time to explain each dish and its significance in Turkish culture, making our dining experience both educational and enjoyable. The owner’s visit to our table to share stories was a bonus. It is great the restaurant is passionate about preserving traditional Turkish cuisine.

Reflections on Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant was more than just a meal; it was a cultural immersion that complemented our visit to the ancient city of Ephesus. The delicious food, warm hospitality, and charming atmosphere made it a highlight of our trip. Whether you’re a history buff exploring the ruins or simply a traveler seeking authentic Turkish flavors, Bizim Ev Hanimeli is a must-visit destination in Selçuk.

As we left the restaurant, our hearts and stomachs were full, and we felt a deeper appreciation for the culinary traditions of Turkey. If you ever find yourself in Selçuk, be sure to stop by Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant for an unforgettable dining experience that will leave you craving more.

Read more about our Adventures in Turkey:

Walking in the Footsteps of the Apostle Paul – Ancient Ephesus

Our journey through Turkey’s ancient wonders led us to the magnificent ruins of Ephesus. This amazing site offers a breathtaking glimpse into the grandeur of the Roman Empire. Nestled near the modern town of Selçuk, Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our visit to this historic gem was nothing short of extraordinary.

World Heritage marker at Ephesus

Arrival at Ephesus

Baths of Varius at Ephesus.

As we arrived at the upper entrance to Ephesus, the sheer scale of the site was immediately apparent. The ancient city, once a bustling metropolis and a major port, now lay in ruins, yet its splendor was still palpable. We were greeted by the ruins of an ancient agora and the baths of Varius.

The Library of Celsus

Library of Celsus at Ephesus

One of our memorable stops was the Library of Celsus, one of the most photographed monuments in Ephesus. Built in 117 AD, this grand structure once housed thousands of scrolls and served as a monumental tomb for Celsus, a Roman senator. The facade, with its intricately carved columns and statues, was breathtaking. Standing before this ancient library, we felt a deep connection to the scholars and thinkers who once walked these halls.

Menorah etched into the marble steps of the Library of Celsus.

Inscribed in the steps of the library is a Menorah. This simple symbol points to the diverse and bustling culture of ancient Ephesus. As a major port for trading, Ephesus was a metropolis of varied cultures and religions.

The Great Theatre

Great Arena of Ephesus.

Near the end of our visit, we made our way to the Great Theater. This massive structure could seat up to 25,000 spectators. This ancient theater, built into the slope of Panayir Hill, was used for gladiatorial contests, theatrical performances, and public gatherings. The acoustics of the theater were so remarkable that even a whisper from the stage could be heard at the top rows.

Distant house purported to be where Paul stayed when he fled Ephesus.

This theater is mentioned in Acts 19, although this scripture does not actually say that Paul preached here. It is reasonable to believe that he may have. But on the day of the Silversmith’s riot, as recounted in scripture, Paul was urged not to enter the theater. Our guide in Turkey indicated to us a fortified house on a house distant (but visible) from Ephesus where Paul fled to. It is believed Paul remained at this house until a ship arrived to take him from Ephesus. I do not know the provenance of this story, but it is an interesting side note.

The Terrace Houses

Terrace Houses with intricate mosaic patios.

Another interesting highlight of our visit was exploring the Terrace Houses, also known as the “Houses of the Rich.” These well-preserved homes belonged to the wealthy elite of Ephesus and offered a fascinating glimpse into their luxurious lifestyle. The intricate mosaics, frescoes, and marble floors were incredibly well-preserved, showcasing the opulence of ancient Roman life. Walking through these houses, we marveled at the advanced engineering and artistic skills of the time.

The Temple of Artemis

While the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, now lies mostly in ruins, we visited the site where this once magnificent temple stood. Although only a single column remains, it was interesting to imagine the grandeur of the temple in its prime. Dedicated to the goddess Artemis, this temple was a center of religious worship and a symbol of the city’s wealth and power.

The Streets of Ephesus

Paved Walkway between the Library and Arena

Strolling through the ancient streets of Ephesus, we encountered various other significant structures, including the Agora, the Odeon, and the Baths of Scholastica. Each corner of the city held its own historical significance and architectural marvels. The marble-paved streets, lined with remnants of shops and public buildings, provided a vivid picture of daily life in this once-thriving city.

Public bathroom at Ephesus.

Reflecting on Our Visit to Ephesus

Our visit to the ruins of Ephesus was a journey back in time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The grandeur of the monuments, the sophistication of the city planning, and the artistry of the ancient craftsmen left us in awe. Ephesus is not just a collection of ruins; it is a living testament to the ingenuity, culture, and spirit of a civilization that has shaped our history.

View of Great Arena from Harbor Street which once led to the bay.

As we left Ephesus, the echoes of its glorious past stayed with us, a reminder of the enduring legacy of human achievement. For anyone with a passion for history, archaeology, or simply the beauty of ancient architecture, a visit to Ephesus is an absolute must. It is a place where the past comes alive, offering an unforgettable experience that enriches the soul and ignites the imagination.

Interested in Turkey? Check out these other reviews!


Virgin Mary’s House – Did Jesus’ Mother Live Here?

Our travels through the historic landscape of Turkey led us to a place of profound spiritual significance and serene beauty: the Virgin Mary’s House in Ephesus. Some Christian sojourners believe this to be a sacred site. But is it the final resting place of the Virgin Mary? The ancient stone building is nestled on the tranquil slopes of Bulbul Mountain, near the ruins of Ephesus. Here’s a glimpse into our visit to this revered sanctuary.

Entrance to Virgin Mary's House

Arriving at the Virgin Mary’s House

As we approached the site, a sense of reverence and peace enveloped us. The Virgin Mary’s House, or Meryem Ana Evi, is a modest stone structure. The house is surrounded by lush greenery, offering a serene retreat. The journey up the winding road to the site added to the anticipation. We enjoyed breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside enhancing the experience.

Virgin Mary's House and Chapel

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the tranquil atmosphere of the sanctuary. It was a very cold morning with a light rain adding to the serenity. The house itself is small and unassuming, yet it holds immense historical and religious significance. According to some Christian tradition, the Apostle John brought Mary to Ephesus after the crucifixion of Jesus, and she spent her final years here. However, there is little in the written record to corroborate this. A German nun had visions of Mary’s house which ultimately led to the discovery of this site. Anne Catherine Emmerich’s vision described its location in remarkable detail.

Baptismal Pool adjacent to Virgin Mary's House.
Baptismal Pool

Historic Provenance of the Virgin Mary’s House

I find the provenance of the Virgin Mary’s House to be tenuous at best. According to the scriptures, Jesus gave his disciple John responsibility for his mother. Written history confirms that John did eventually relocate to Ephesus. However, did Mary live long enough to accompany John to Ephesus? Possibly. But she could just as easily have passed before John relocated.

Is this site likely the site where Jesus’ mother lived? On that point I am less certain. But what does seem certain is that the structure dates to the Apostolic Age and there is an ancient baptismal in the courtyard. At a minimum, these facts point to this place as an ancient Christian gathering place. As a history buff, this is enough to pique my interest. Whether Mary actually lived here or not is not as relevant to me.

Impressions of Virgin Mary’s House

The house had a striking simplicity and solemnity. The stone walls and small rooms evoke a sense of timelessness and humility. A small altar adorned with candles and flowers stands in the main room, where visitors can offer prayers and reflect on the spiritual heritage of the place. The gentle flicker of candlelight and the hushed whispers of fellow visitors created an atmosphere of deep reverence. We did not take photographs of the interior.

Front of Virgin Mary's House and Chapel. To the right you can see the small exit door from the chapel.

Adjacent to the Virgin Mary’s House is a chapel where mass is held, particularly drawing crowds on significant Marian feast days. We took a moment to sit in the quiet of the chapel, absorbing the peaceful ambiance and contemplating the history and faith that have made this site a pilgrimage destination for millions of Christians worldwide.

Other Things to See

Outside, the serene surroundings invite reflection and meditation. The site is beautifully maintained, with shaded pathways, blooming flowers, and benches where visitors can sit and enjoy the tranquility. We followed the path to the “Wishing Wall,” where pilgrims leave notes and prayers, tucking them into the crevices of the wall. This tradition, akin to the Western Wall in Jerusalem, adds a personal and touching element to the visit.

Springs at Virgin Mary's House

An interesting aspect of our visit was the sacred spring, believed to have healing properties. We joined other visitors in drinking from the spring. The water, like the morning, was chilly. I had to wonder how many pilgrims who have visited this holy site over the centuries, drank from this spring. I also thought of the correlation to the Living Water, more meaningful than a pilgrimage site. After drinking the cold water, we stopped for tea near the entrance to the grounds.

Final Thoughts on Our Visit

Our visit to the Virgin Mary’s House in Ephesus was a deeply moving experience. The combination of historical significance, spiritual reverence, and natural beauty makes it a unique and enriching destination. Whether you are a devout pilgrim, a history enthusiast, or a traveler seeking a place of peace and reflection, the Virgin Mary’s House offers a profound and unforgettable experience.

As we left the sanctuary, the peaceful aura of the Virgin Mary’s House stayed with us, a gentle reminder of the enduring power of faith and the serene beauty of this sacred site. If you find yourself exploring the ancient wonders of Ephesus, a visit to the Virgin Mary’s House is an absolute must. Even if it’s not the house of Jesus’ mother, it is an ancient site with an ancient Christian connection.

Read more about our trip to Turkey:

Korumar Hotel Kusadasi: Stunning Aegean Sea Views and Luxury

Our journey along Turkey’s stunning Aegean coastline brought us to the luxurious Korumar Hotel in Kusadasi. Renowned for its breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, this hotel promised a memorable overnight stay, and it certainly delivered.

Official Korumar Hotel photo exterior.

Upon arrival, we were immediately struck by the hotel’s picturesque setting. Perched on a cliff, the Korumar Hotel offers panoramic views of the Aegean Sea that are simply mesmerizing. The azure waters stretch endlessly, meeting the horizon in a tranquil embrace, providing the perfect backdrop for a relaxing getaway.

Amazing sunset over the Aegean from our hotel room at the Korumar hotel.

The check-in process was smooth and efficient, and the staff was welcoming and attentive. Our room was spacious, modern, and meticulously clean. The decor combined elegance with comfort, creating a cozy yet sophisticated atmosphere. The highlight, of course, was the private balcony overlooking the sea. We spent several moments just soaking in the view, watching the sun begin its descent, casting golden hues over the water.

View of Kusadasi and the Kusadasi Bay from Korumar Hotel.

After settling in, we decided to explore the hotel’s amenities. The Korumar boasts a range of facilities designed to enhance the guest experience. The outdoor infinity pool, seemingly blending into the sea beyond, was particularly inviting. However, it was a very cool evening, not conducive to an outdoor swim.

Official photo of Korumar Hotel buffet

As evening approached, we dined at the hotel’s main restaurant, which features a diverse menu of both Turkish and international cuisine. The dinner buffet was a feast for the senses, offering a variety of dishes prepared with fresh, local ingredients. We savored every bite while gazing out at the twinkling lights of Kusadasi town across the bay.

Korumar King room. Official photo, not the actual room I stayed in. But this is what it looked like.

The night was peaceful, and we slept soundly, lulled by the gentle sound of the waves. Waking up to the serene view of the Aegean was a delightful start to the day. We enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast before heading out to explore the ancient city of Ephesus. The fresh fruits, pastries, and traditional Turkish dishes provided the perfect fuel for the day ahead.

We spent two nights at Hotel Korumar, providing amazing book ends for our exploration of Ephesus. Before checking out, we took one last stroll around the hotel grounds. The beautifully landscaped gardens, dotted with vibrant flowers and well-maintained pathways, added to the hotel’s charm. The combination of natural beauty and luxurious comfort made our stay truly special.

Sun setting heavy over the Aegean.

Our two-night stay at the Korumar Hotel on the Aegean coast was a perfect blend of relaxation and indulgence. The stunning views, exceptional service, and top-notch amenities made it a memorable experience. Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, a family vacation, or a peaceful retreat, the Korumar Hotel in Kusadasi is an ideal destination.

Our two-night stay was part of a vacation package. We stayed in the cooler fall months, which may have been less expensive. The current summer rate is over $200, which makes sense for a resort atmosphere on the Aegean Sea.

Other Highlights of our Turkey Trip

Discovering the Asclepieion of Pergamon: The Ancient Healing Center

Our journey through Turkey’s rich historical tapestry led us to an extraordinary destination: the Asclepieion of Pergamon. This ancient healing center, nestled in the heart of the ancient city of Pergamon (modern-day Bergama), is a testament to the advanced medical practices and architectural ingenuity of ancient civilizations. Here’s a glimpse into our visit to this fascinating UNESCO World Heritage site.

Entrance to the Asclepieion of Pergamon

A Brief History of the Asclepieion of Pergamon

The Asclepieion of Pergamon was one of the most renowned healing centers in the ancient world, dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine. Established in the 4th century BCE, it reached its zenith during the Roman period, attracting patients from far and wide who sought cures for their ailments. The complex was not just a hospital; it was a holistic health center combining medical treatment with spiritual and psychological care.

Arrival and First Impressions

View as you enter the grounds of the Asclepieion.

As we approached the site, the grandeur of the Asclepieion was immediately apparent. The ruins sprawled across a picturesque landscape, with remnants of columns and structures standing as silent witnesses to centuries of medical history. The serene ambiance of the area, surrounded by lush greenery, set the tone for an enlightening exploration.

Exploring the Asclepieion of Pergamon

Colonnaded path to Asclepieion of Pergamon.

Entering the Asclepieion, we followed the Sacred Way, a colonnaded path that once welcomed patients to the sanctuary. This path, lined with the remnants of ancient columns, led us to the heart of the healing center, where several key structures captivated our attention.

The Temple of Asclepius

At the center of the complex stood the Temple of Asclepius, dedicated to the god of healing. Although only the foundations and a few columns remain, the temple’s historical significance was palpable. Here, patients would offer sacrifices and prayers, seeking divine intervention for their recovery.

The Theater

Asclepieion of Pergamon Theater

One of the most striking features of the Asclepieion is the small theater, built into the hillside. This theater, with its semicircular seating arrangement, was used for lectures and performances, recognizing the importance of mental well-being and entertainment in the healing process. Sitting here, we could almost hear the echoes of ancient lectures and performances.

The Healing Spring and Pools

Asclepieion of Pergamon healing center

Water played a crucial role in the healing practices at the Asclepieion. We visited the sacred spring, believed to have curative properties, and the adjacent pools where patients would bathe. The sound of flowing water added a tranquil backdrop to our visit, emphasizing the center’s emphasis on natural and holistic healing methods. We were also able to walk through the healing tunnel, where inebriated guests would be given suggestive instructions from above ground (such as make a donation) as they navigated the length of the tunnel. Small streams of water trickled along the edges of the tunnel, adding to the serenity.

The Library and Medical School

Pergamon was also home to a significant library, second only to the Library of Alexandria. The Asclepieion’s library and medical school were vital components of the site, where ancient physicians like Galen, one of history’s most influential medical practitioners, studied and taught. Walking through these areas, we felt a deep connection to the ancient pursuit of knowledge and healing.

Reflections on Our Visit to Asclepieion of Pergamon

Our visit to the Asclepieion of Pergamon was a journey through time, offering insights into the advanced medical practices of the ancient world. The integration of spiritual, psychological, and physical healing at this site was truly ahead of its time, reflecting a comprehensive approach to health that remains relevant today.

Asclepieion of Pergamon Courtyard

Standing among the ruins, we were struck by the timeless quest for healing and well-being. The Asclepieion of Pergamon is not just an archaeological site; it is a symbol of humanity’s enduring pursuit of knowledge and health. For history enthusiasts, travelers seeking a deeper understanding of ancient medicine, or anyone interested in the roots of holistic healing, the Asclepieion of Pergamon is a must-visit destination.

Practical Information

  • Location: The Asclepieion is located in Bergama, about 100 kilometers north of Izmir, Turkey.
  • Opening Hours: The site is open daily, but hours can vary, so it’s best to check in advance.
  • Admission: There is an entrance fee (currently at about twenty dollars), with discounts available for students and seniors.
  • Guided Tours: Consider hiring a local guide to fully appreciate the historical and cultural significance of the site.
  • What to Bring: Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning ruins and beautiful landscape. There is an opportunity for a good amount of walking to explore the ruins.

Visiting the Asclepieion of Pergamon was an unforgettable experience that deepened our appreciation for the ancient world’s contributions to medicine and holistic healing. And maybe a bit of ancient scamming. It’s an experience we highly recommend to anyone exploring the wonders of Turkey. Particularly for history buffs.
Learn more about my travels to Turkey!

Kolin Hotel – A Comfortable Night On The Dardanelles

As our vacation headed toward the heart of Turkey, we spent an overnight in Canakkale at Kolin Hotel. The Hotel is situated along the Dardanelles Strait, providing a picturesque backdrop for our visit.

Double room at Kolin Hotel

We checked in to the Kolin Hotel shortly before dinner, following a stop to visit the Troy Ruins. We checked into our room, which was clean and modern. The bed, which was probably a queen, was comfortable. While our stop was only overnight, the room was comfortable for our short visit. The hotel, as a whole, was very modern, clean and well cared for.

It was very chilly when we arrived, so we didn’t venture outside. However, the view from our room overlooked a manicured property along the Dardanelles. On a warmer day, a stroll around the property would have been pleasant, based on our view. It was obvious that the same attention given to the hotel was also evident in the upkeep of the grounds.

Kolin Hotel buffet from hotel website.

Our stay at Kolin Hotel included both dinner after our arrival as well as breakfast the following morning. Dinner was a good way to top off a full day of traveling. The meticulously attended buffet offered a wide variety of options. We had the evening on our own, but didn’t venture out. There are businesses within walking distance, but the combination of travel and weather kept us inside for the evening.

Kolin Hotel

We dined again for breakfast before another full day of travel that would end at another hotel in Kusadasi. Breakfast was equally enjoyable, with a varied selection of breakfast choices.

Our visit was part of a vacation package that included hotels, so I do not know the exact price paid for our room. However, the rooms are listed on the internet at around $70 currently. At that price point, this hotel was a bargain. Trip Advisor currently lists this hotel as the #1 hotel in Canakkale.

Overall, this hotel was clean, comfortable, affordable and offered exceptional views of the Dardanelles. As a bonus, the food was excellent. If I were traveling back to Canakkale, I would definitely consider this hotel first.

Historic Troy: A Journey Through The Ancient Ruins

A Brief History of Troy

Troy, an ancient city shrouded in myth and legend, has captivated historians, archaeologists, and travelers for centuries. Located in what is now modern-day Turkey, near the town of Hisarlik, Troy’s history spans several millennia, blending mythological tales with historical facts. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We stopped to visit this site on our way to our overnight stop at the Kolin Hotel in Canakkale.

Trojan Horse replica at Troy Ruins. Turkish Museum photo.

The Mythological Tale

The story of Troy is most famously depicted in Homer’s epic poems, the Iliad and the Odyssey. According to legend, Troy was the site of the Trojan War. Legend says the war was sparked by the abduction of Helen, the wife of the Spartan king Menelaus, by Paris, a Trojan prince. The ensuing war between the Greeks and the Trojans is highlighted by the cunning use of the Trojan Horse. The war ended with the city’s destruction. The exact historical accuracy of Homer’s account is debated. However, the legend of Troy remains a cornerstone of Western literature and mythology.

The Archaeological History

Marker depicting the various eras of Troy's inhabitants.

The ruins of Troy were rediscovered in the 19th century by Heinrich Schliemann, a German archaeologist. Early excavations revealed multiple layers of ancient cities built on top of one another. These layers, identified as Troy I through Troy IX, indicate that the site was continuously inhabited from the Early Bronze Age (around 3000 BCE) to the Byzantine period (around 500 CE). Each layer represents a different era in Troy’s history, reflecting the city’s evolution and the various cultures that influenced it over time.

Visiting the Troy Ruins

Partial reconstruction of Troy II mud brick walls.

Walking through the ruins is like stepping back in time. The archaeological site offers a glimpse into the ancient world, with remnants of city walls, gateways, and buildings that tell the story of a civilization that thrived for thousands of years. It was interesting to see the layers of different inhabitants over the centuries that this site was occupied.

Key Highlights of the Site

Wall ruins at Troy

The Walls of Troy: The massive stone walls, some of which date back to the time of the Trojan War (Troy VI and VII), are among the most impressive features of the site. These fortifications highlight the city’s strategic importance and the need for defense against invaders.

    Ramp at Scaean Gate

    The Scaean Gate: One of the main entrances to the city, the Scaean Gate, is often associated with the tales of the Trojan War. Standing before it, one can imagine the great warriors and events that once took place here.

    Troy Ruins

    The Sanctuary of Athena: This religious site, dedicated to the goddess Athena, underscores the cultural and religious significance of Troy. It offers insight into the spiritual life of the Trojans.

    Roman Odeon at Troy

    The Roman Odeon and Bouleuterion: These structures, from the Roman period, illustrate the city’s continued importance and adaptation under Roman rule. The Odeon was used for musical performances, while the Bouleuterion served as a council house.

    The Trojan Horse Replica: Although not an ancient artifact, the wooden horse at the site serves as a nod to the legendary tale. Visitors can climb inside for a panoramic view of the ruins.

      Practical Information for Visitors

      • Location: The Troy ruins are located near the town of Hisarlik in northwestern Turkey, about 30 kilometers south of Canakkale.
      • Hours and Admission: The site is open daily, with varying hours depending on the season. It’s advisable to check current opening times and ticket prices before planning your visit.
      • Guided Tours: To fully appreciate the historical and archaeological significance of Troy, consider joining a guided tour. Knowledgeable guides can provide detailed explanations and bring the ancient stories to life.
      • Pro Tip: Wear good, comfortable shoes. The ruins meander around several notable historic ruins, as noted above. There was a bit of rain the day we visited, which created some slick surfaces. So be prepared for a bit of walking and a few slippery spots.

      Conclusion

      Visiting the ruins is a profound experience that bridges the gap between myth and history. As you explore the ancient site, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the stories that have shaped our understanding of the past. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a fan of mythology, or simply a curious traveler, Troy offers a unique journey through time that is both educational and inspiring.

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      Gelibolu Balik Restaurant: Seafood Fresh From The Sea

      As we journeyed from Istanbul to Canakkale, we stopped in the sleepy seaside town of Gelibolu (Gallipoli) for lunch. The waterfront town sits in the Southeastern region of Thrace on the European side of Turkey. We stopped just short of the ferryboat at a restaurant called Gelibolu Balik (Gallipoli Fish) Restaurant. It sounds much fancier in Turkish.

      Fresh catch at Gelibolu Balik

      When we arrived at Gelibolu Balik restaurant, we were greeted by the manager, who showed us the fresh catch of the day, held within a cooler. Guests are able to pick directly from the catch of the day. While my wife opted for the fresh catch, I do not eat seafood. I was directed over to an ala carte menu that was displayed within a glass case to the left near the entrance. I opted for kebab and several other side dishes.

      Marina from the docks at Gelibolu Balik Restaurant

      Because we were a large group, service was on the slow side. Our dishes arrived as they were ready, coming out sporadically to the table. This was fine, as it allowed us to nibble on salad and side dishes while we awaited our entrees. My wife ordered her fish grilled. It appeared that she enjoyed it. My kebab was okay, but nothing spectacular. I think it goes to the old adage about ordering beef at a seafood restaurant. It wasn’t bad, but it was definitely not the best meal I had in Turkey.

      Ferry dock adjacent to Gelibolu Balik Restaurant

      The ambience of the restaurant was nice. The interior was not fancy, but large windows provided an excellent backdrop of ocean breeze and choppy waves. It was cold the day we visited, so we enjoyed the churning waters from indoors. I would imagine the experience being greatly enhanced had it been a nice evening with a gentle breeze. Either way, even indoors, the seaside charm provided a great atmosphere for our meal.

      While the service and atmosphere were excellent, the prices seemed to be a bit high for lunch. Understanding that it is fresh seafood, the prices seemed compatible with what one would pay in a small restaurant in the coastal Carolinas. Not expensive, but also not cheap. I would go back to this restaurant again. But I would consider another option as well, if given an opportunity to return to this charming seaside town.

      Istanbul’s Historic Spice Bazaar: Exploring The Flavors of Turkey

      On our fourth day in Turkey, we visited the Istanbul spice bazaar before driving to Canakkale. The Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Market) is nearly 400 years old. We pulled up in front of the vibrant Istanbul sign adjacent to the market to disembark. I was sure to snap a few photos of the bright red sign before heading to the nearby market.

      Istanbul sign adjacent to the spice bazaar

      As we entered the market, we passed through a cursory security checkpoint. The checkpoint consisted of little more than a magnetometer and a security guard. Misir Carsisi, also known as the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is a living testament to the city’s rich history and cultural heritage. This bustling market, renowned for its aromatic spices, exotic teas, and colorful confections, has been a cornerstone of Istanbul’s trade and commerce for centuries.

      Entrance to Misir Carsisi spice bazaar

      Origins and Construction of the Spice Bazaar

      The Misir Carsisi was commissioned by Sultan Turhan Hatice, the mother of Sultan Mehmed IV, in the 1660s. It was built as part of the Yeni Mosque complex in the Eminönü district, a key commercial hub of the Ottoman Empire. The bazaar’s construction was funded by taxes collected from Cairo, which is why it is often referred to as the Egyptian Bazaar.

      Architectural Splendor

      Designed by the famous Ottoman architect Kazım Ağa, the Misir Carsisi features a distinctive L-shaped layout. The market boasts a series of interconnected vaulted chambers, each lined with shops that have been family-run for generations. The architectural design not only adds to the bazaar’s charm but also enhances the aromatic experience, as the vaulted ceilings trap and mix the enticing scents of spices and herbs.

      A Hub of Trade and Culture

      Throughout its history, the Misir Carsisi has been a vital trading center. Merchants from across the world, including Europe, Asia, and Africa, would gather here to trade spices, textiles, and other valuable goods. The bazaar’s strategic location near the Golden Horn allowed for easy access to maritime trade routes, solidifying its status as a global trading hub.

      The Spice Bazaar Today

      Walking through the bazaar, one can still sense the echoes of the past, where each stall and corner tells a story of the diverse cultures and traditions that have shaped this historic market. Merchants are eager to invite visitors in to sample apple tea or a wide variety of Turkish delight. The Market has a Long main hall that extends from the plaza entrance. A shorter hall crosses the main hall near the far end of the hall.

      Impression of the Spice Bazaar

      There are nearly one hundred shops in the bazaar. However, the shops are very similar to one another. The offerings included spices, teas, turkish delight, other sweet treats, jewelry, nuts and souvenirs. As this was still early in our trip, we did not purchase any gifts. However, with a long drive ahead, we did purchase some roasted nuts. The nuts were exceptional. The roasting process must be significantly different from our own, as the results were better than what we are accustomed to.

      To the left of the building, down a long ramp, are a set of public restrooms. My recollection was that the restroom fee was equivalent to about five cents. The restrooms were large and clean. We were able to get in and out quickly. Knowing we would be on the bus for a while, this was a welcome stop before we departed.

      The Misir Carsisi is more than just a market; it is a journey through time, offering a glimpse into the soul of Istanbul. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a culinary adventurer, or a curious traveler, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar promises an unforgettable experience filled with the flavors and fragrances of a bygone era.