John - Epic Bucket List Adventures

San Francisco Cable Cars: Riding on the Iconic Trolleys

San Francisco’s cable cars are more than just a mode of transportation; they are a moving piece of history and an iconic symbol of the city. Our recent trip to San Francisco gave us the perfect opportunity to explore this classic attraction, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our visit. As an added bonus, our trip was free. As part of our stay at the Adagio Hotel, we were provided complimentary tickets!

A Ride Through History

The San Francisco cable car system, the world’s last manually operated cable car system, dates back to the late 19th century. Invented by Andrew Smith Hallidie in 1873, the system was initially designed to help residents navigate the city’s steep hills. Today, the cable cars are a beloved tourist attraction, offering a unique way to see the city’s beautiful landscapes and historic neighborhoods.

In my title, I used the word “Trolley” because that is what I have always heard them called. It isn’t accurate, so don’t call it a trolley to SFMTA workers; they might correct you!

Cable cars are turned manually on the turn table

Starting Our Journey

We started our cable car journey at the Powell Street turntable, where the Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines begin. The turntable itself is a fascinating piece of engineering, manually operated by cable car operators who turn the cars around by hand. We watched in awe as the operators spun the cable car on the wooden turntable, a sight that took us back in time.

The line wrapped around the turntable when we arrived. We joined the queue near the Sephora. One of the SFMTA workers advised us the wait would be approximately thirty minutes, which was fairly accurate. Boarding took a few minutes, with those in line in front of us quickly filling the “open” seats at the end of the car. These seats offer the best views. We were seated in the interior portion of the cable car, which was fine with us.

The Scenic Cable Cars

As the cable car began its ascent up Powell Street, we were immediately struck by the stunning views of the city. The climb was steep, and we could see the bustling streets below and the charming buildings that lined the road. The clanging of the bell and the rhythmic click-clack of the tracks added to the nostalgic ambiance.

Highlights Along the Way

Our ride on the Powell-Hyde line took us through some of San Francisco’s most famous sights. We passed by Union Square, a bustling shopping and dining district, and continued on to Nob Hill, known for its grand hotels and historic buildings. The views from Nob Hill were particularly breathtaking, with panoramic vistas of the Bay Area.

The descent toward Fisherman’s Wharf offered even more incredible views. We could see Alcatraz Island in the distance and the sparkling waters of the San Francisco Bay. As we approached the end of the line, we were treated to a fantastic view of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Tips for Riding the Cable Cars

Arrive Early: The cable cars are a popular attraction, and lines can get long, especially during peak tourist season. Arriving early in the day can help you avoid long waits. We waited approximately thirty minutes but were told that the lines can get two hours long.
Hang on Tight: If you’re adventurous, try standing on the running boards and hanging onto the poles. It’s a thrilling way to experience the ride, but be sure to hold on tight! We boarded later in the queue, so we had the option to wait for another cable car, or ride on the inside. We opted for the latter.
Plan Your Route: The cable car system includes three lines: Powell-Hyde, Powell-Mason, and California Street. Each offers different views and stops, so plan your route based on what you want to see.
Buy a Pass: If you plan on riding the cable cars multiple times, consider purchasing a day pass. It’s a cost-effective way to explore the city.

Buying Tickets (Quoting From the SFMTA Website):

To avoid long lines, prepay utilizing MuniMobile® or Clipper® Card

To board cable cars at Powell & Market, Bay & Taylor and Hyde & Beach Streets, you must purchase your fare in advance (applies 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily).

Pricing details for cable car single trips can be found here. For all-day travel, you may want to purchase a visitor Passport.

Other payment options:

MuniMobile®: The SFMTA’s official ticketing app, MuniMobile lets you buy tickets instantly through a credit/debit card, PayPal account, Apple Pay or Google Pay.

Clipper® Card: Clipper is the all-in-one transit card for the Bay Area. Use your Clipper card on all major Bay Area transit systems, including Muni.

Cash: Exact change is required.

Please visit our Fares page for all cable car ticket details.

The turntable used to turn the cable cars manually

Final Thoughts on the Cable Cars

Our ride on the San Francisco cable cars was an unforgettable experience. The blend of history, scenic views, and the unique charm of the cable cars themselves made it a highlight of our trip. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a long-time resident, a ride on these iconic trolleys is a must-do. The cable cars of San Francisco not only offer a convenient way to get around but also provide a moving snapshot of the city’s rich history and vibrant culture.

Next time you find yourself in San Francisco, be sure to hop on a cable car and let it take you on a journey through time and across the city’s picturesque hills. One-way tickets for a single pass run eight dollars. Not bad for an iconic piece of transportation history.

Dumpling Home…Is Where The Heart Is. San Fran Good Eats.

During a recent trip to San Francisco, my wife and I had the opportunity to revisit a delicacy from our trip to China a few years ago. Shanghai dumplings (also called Pan-Fried Juicy Pork Bao). Our destination? Dumpling Home.

We found Dumpling Home searching Yelp and Google for good Chinese food in San Francisco. The Michelin rating certainly didn’t hurt our decision to select Dumpling Home over a few others we were also considering.

When we arrived at the restaurant, there was a waiting list. The small establishment has outdoor seating. A crowd was gathered around the entrance and along the non-seating side of the building, waiting to be seated. The weather was nice, although a bit cool. We entered the restaurant where we joined the queue by entering our details on a smart pad.

Our wait time was close to forty minutes. Dumpling Home kept us apprised of our estimated seating time by text message We were also able to check our spot in line using the Yelp app. The estimated waiting time was surprisingly accurate. We were seated outside at a table for two along the side of the building. This was probably the coldest location, as there were outdoor heaters under the sheltered area. It was a tad bit cool to not have a heater even in July.

The servers were very busy, but attentive. The wait time allowed us to determine what we wanted to eat before we were seated. Our order was ready by the time our server arrived. We opted for the Juicy Pork Bao (I call them Shanghai Dumplings as this was the first and only place I have had them). We also ordered green beans, pork won-ton, red bean paste pockets and vegetable bao. Because of the chill in the air, we also ordered a pot of Jasmine tea. The order was printed and taped to our table. As items arrived, our servers scratched them off the list.

The tea arrived first. The ceramic cup doubled as a hand warmer. The Jasmine tea was light but tasty. The food came out a bit at a time. Beginning with the green beans and red bean paste pockets. The green beans were perfectly seasoned and easily my favorite thing on the menu. At least, among the five items we ordered. The red bean paste pockets were also delicious. The touch of sesame seed was just right. Toasty and sweet.

The pork won-tons came out next. Honestly, I was not a fan. The texture of the pork was a bit odd to me. If I return, I will order differently on my next visit. That goes for the vegetable bao, which came out next. I was not a fan. They weren’t bad. It’s just not something I would order again. I will choose some items differently from the menu if I have an opportunity to return.

Pork Wonton with Plum Sauce at Dumpling Home

The final arrival was the one that drew us Dumpling Home to begin with. The juicy pork bao. They were delicious. The bao were served like the Xiao Bao Long, with a nice sauce. The sauce really make the difference here. The tartness of vinegar, a bit of sweetness and hint of ginger offset the fatty pork. These dumplings more than made up for the disappointing wontons.

Overall, the dining experience at Dumpling Home was excellent. While the pork wonton was not great, the green beans, red bean pockets and juicy pork bao were phenomenal. I would probably opt for something other than vegetable bao if I return. I would definitely choose something other than the wonton. The prices were a bit on the high side, but seemed typical to what we paid in San Francisco. Overall, our bill totaled close to one hundred dollars including the tax and tip. I would definitely recommend this restaurant.

Hotel Adagio: Enjoy Charm and Comfort In San Francisco

My wife and I recently completed a week-long trip to San Francisco. Our base of operations during our trip was the Hotel Adagio, a boutique Marriott hotel in their Autograph Collection. Having stayed at Autograph hotels in the past, I was familiar with the brand. This collection of hotels tend to be luxurious and unique.

Exterior of Hotel Adagio from the hotel website.

When we arrived at the Hotel Adagio on a Sunday evening, we were greeted at the front desk by Cesar. Cesar briefed us on the hotel and provided us with a list of included amenities. As Marriott Platinum members, we were provided an option of points or daily free breakfasts (pro tip: choose the breakfast). We were also provided bottled water, advised of a daily $25 hotel credit in the bar or restaurant and complimentary champagne in the evening.

After checking into the hotel, we headed up to the sixteenth floor to our room. It appears our room, which was located adjacent to the elevators, is an accessible room. That is fine, as the room was spacious and comfortable. The room was adorned with a variety of photographs and comfortably appointed with a king bed, couch and typical hotel furniture. There were plenty of outlets for charging our electronics near the bed. We also wanted a refrigerator, which Cesar ensured was delivered to our room while we were at dinner.

The room at Hotel Adagio was comfortable. I have stayed in many large cities and have found that hotel rooms are often cramped, even when luxurious. In this case, the room provided plenty of space to stretch out. The small closet was enclosed behind a curtain and was probably the only thing small about the room. The bathroom was large and spacious and appeared capable of easily accommodating a wheelchair if needed. The bathtub/shower also had a seat for accessibility, which I didn’t love, as I didn’t require it. It was mostly out of the way, as it an fold up, but did take up a bit of space in the shower.

My only complaint about the hotel was the noise. I think the noise was mostly generated from the nearby elevator shaft. As long as the elevators were not running, it was relatively quiet at night. But the elevator did create some racket in the late evening and early mornings. (Pro tip: try to get a room farther from the elevator if you are a light sleeper).

The breakfasts were good. As a platinum member, we were given a selection of any two items on the menu plus coffee and juice. I enjoyed the breakfast sandwich and fruit each morning, while my wife opted to try different options on the menu. Everything we were served at breakfast was good. The breakfast would be a bit on the expensive side if it were not included, but was typical of a nicer hotel in a metropolitan area. The menu ranged between 15-30 dollars.

Hotel Adagio Bar area taken from the hotel website.

Hotel Adagio offered complimentary coffee (Starbucks) throughout the day. I noticed some folks bringing the free coffee into breakfast, which was a smart idea for those who were paying for their breakfast. It saved them a few dollars and the Starbucks coffee was actually a tad bit better than the coffee in the restaurant. We did not try the complimentary champagne, but we did take advantage of the complimentary tickets for the cable car (one way trip).

Overall, our experience at the Adagio Hotel, Autograph Collection, was an excellent one. It was a comfortable place to spend a week in San Francisco. There were plenty of restaurants nearby and nearly everything we needed to travel to was a 10-15 dollar Uber at the most. The elevator noise was a minor inconvenience. The bed was very comfortable, the rooms spacious, the staff incredibly outgoing and helpful, the location good and the food delicious. My price averaged out to under 300 per night, which I am guessing is a good price for San Francisco for a luxury hotel. Recommendation: I would definitely stay here again.

Topkapi Palace: The Splendor Of Istanbul’s Ottoman Era

On our recent trip to Istanbul, my wife and I explored the magnificent Topkapi Palace. This iconic palace, built in the 15th century, served as the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for over 400 years.

Visiting Topkapi Palace

We began our tour of the Sultanahmet District early to avoid the crowds. This included a visit to the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. The palace grounds, filled with lush gardens and intricate architecture, immediately captivated us. The sprawling complex includes several courtyards, each with its own unique charm and historical significance.

Our first stop was the Imperial Gate, the grand entrance to the palace. The ornate design and imposing structure set the tone for our visit. As we passed through, we marveled at the detailed carvings and the sense of grandeur.

The First Courtyard

Next, we entered the first courtyard, known as the Court of the Janissaries. This area once housed the elite guards of the palace. The courtyard’s open space and well-maintained gardens provided a serene environment, perfect for a leisurely stroll. Here, visitors can find the church that predates the Hagia Sophia by 200 years. The Hagia Irene.

The Second Courtyard

In the second courtyard, we found the Palace Kitchens and the Imperial Council Chamber. The kitchens, now a museum, displayed an impressive collection of porcelain, silverware, and kitchen utensils used by the palace staff. The Imperial Council Chamber, where important state decisions were made, featured stunning Ottoman architecture and decor.

The Third Courtyard

The third courtyard, or the Inner Palace, housed the sultan’s private quarters and the Harem. The Harem, a secluded part of the palace, offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the sultan’s family and concubines. The lavishly decorated rooms and intricate tile work left us in awe.

Most impressive in the third courtyard were the museum relics found in the private chambers. While the provenance of these relics is specious, at best, they offer a glimpse into Turkey’s rich religious history. Among the purported artifacts are Moses’ Staff, Abraham’s Pot, Joseph’s Turban, David’s Sword and relics belonging to John the Baptist.

Fragment purported to be part of John the Baptist's arm.

Stone pot attributed to Abraham along with drapes belonging to various prophets.

We also visited the Treasury, located within the third courtyard. The Treasury’s collection of jewels, gold, and artifacts was breathtaking. Among the highlights were the Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond, two of the world’s most famous and valuable pieces.

The Fourth Courtyard

The fourth courtyard, known as the Tulip Garden, provided stunning views of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. This peaceful garden, filled with colorful flowers and fountains, was a perfect spot to relax and take in the beauty of the palace.

Throughout our visit, we admired the rich history and architectural splendor of Topkapi Palace. Each courtyard and building offered a unique perspective on the opulence and power of the Ottoman Empire.

Final Thoughts

Our visit to Topkapi Palace was an excellent way to cap off our first day in Turkey. The palace’s grandeur and historical significance make it a must-see destination in Istanbul. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, Topkapi Palace offers a fascinating journey into the heart of the Ottoman Empire. The palace is open Wednesday through Monday from 9am until 6pm.

Istanbul Hippodrome: The Chariot Version of Nascar

During our trip to Istanbul, my wife and I visited the historic Istanbul Hippodrome, an ancient arena filled with fascinating remnants of the past. This significant site, located in the Sultanahmet district, offers a glimpse into the rich history of Istanbul and the grandeur of the Byzantine Empire.

Sunltanahmet Square lays on top of the Istanbul Hippodrome.

We started our tour early in the morning to avoid the crowds and fully immerse ourselves in the experience. The Hippodrome, originally built in the 3rd century AD by Emperor Septimius Severus and later expanded by Constantine the Great, once hosted chariot races, gladiatorial games, and other public events. Although much of the original structure is gone, several impressive monuments remain. The original track is indicated by pavers, with the original track “buried” six feet below.

Obelisk of Theodosius located within the Istanbul Hippodrome

The most notable landmark at the Istanbul Hippodrome is the Obelisk of Theodosius, a towering monument transported from Egypt in the 4th century AD. The obelisk is adorned with intricate carvings that depict scenes from ancient Egypt. Standing before this ancient stone, we marveled at its impressive state of preservation and the stories it tells of a bygone era.

Because the current plaza is elevated from the original Hippodrome level, the lower portion of the obelisk has been walled in so visitors can see the ornate base. There is also a marker, dating the erection of this obelisk in 390 AD. Looking at the size of this massive stone monument, I couldn’t help but wonder the effort that went into moving this stone from Egypt sixteen centuries ago.

As we walked through the Istanbul Hippodrome, we could almost hear the echoes of the chariots racing and the cheers of the crowds. The crowds are said to have numbered 100,000. The site, now a public square known as Sultanahmet Meydanı (square), still carries the energy and spirit of its vibrant past. We took our time, absorbing the historical significance and imagining the grand events that once took place here.

Our visit to the Istanbul Hippodrome was a captivating experience that enriched our understanding of Istanbul’s layered history. It doesn’t take very long to visit, so we started here early before stopping at the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. This ancient arena, with its surviving monuments and storied past, is a must-see for anyone visiting the city. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, the Hippodrome offers a fascinating glimpse into the grandeur and cultural heritage of ancient Byzantium.

Exploring the Magnificence of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul

On our recent trip to Istanbul, my wife and I had the opportunity to visit one of the city’s most iconic landmarks: Hagia Sophia. This historic architectural marvel stands as a testament to Istanbul’s rich cultural and religious history, captivating visitors with its grandeur and intricate beauty. Our trip started with a visit to the Hippodrome, followed by the Blue Mosque. From the Blue Mosque, we walked about five minutes down the scenic promenade to the plaza adjacent to the Hagia Sophia.

Luckily, there were restrooms located near the plaza, allowing us to take a quick restroom stop before joining a very long queue to enter the Hagia Sophia. The line stretched from the entrance, which was to our left as we approached, all the way around the plaza to our right. After a quick freshen up, we joined the queue. The wait, including a cursory security check, was less than an hour. It was worth the wait.

A Brief History of Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia, originally built as a cathedral by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in 537 AD, has undergone several transformations over the centuries. Following the Ottoman conquest in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II converted it into a mosque. In 1935, it was secularized and opened as a museum by the Republic of Turkey. Most recently, in 2020, it was reconverted into a mosque. Despite these changes, Hagia Sophia remains a symbol of the diverse cultural and religious heritage of Istanbul.

I had mixed feeling about this, as the recent conversion to a mosque meant that they covered up much of the Christian iconography within the structure. With that in mind, I was relieved that some of the art outside the actual sanctuary was still intact. I was also relieved that they did not destroy the art inside the sanctuary, opting to cover it up instead.

First Impressions and Entrance

Exterior of Hagia Sophia where remnants of an earlier church can be seen.

After clearing security, we stopped outside the building to observe some of the remnants from the church that previously occupied the site, the second of three. The first was built between 337 and 361 by Eudoxius of Antioch, making it among the old and grandest churches in Christian history.

Hagia Sophia Interior: A Blend of Art and Architecture

Shoes may be worn into the outer hallway, just inside the main entrance. Christian art still adorns the arch of the entrance. The hallway serves as an area to remove and store shoes prior to entering the carpeted sanctuary.

The amazing Dome inside Hagia Sophia. The curtains in the middle obstruct the view of a painting of Virgin Mary. Two angel paintings are visible in the upper left and right of the photo.

Stepping inside, we were immediately awestruck by the vast, open space and the towering dome that seemed to float above us. The interior of Hagia Sophia is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, with a harmonious blend of Christian iconography and Islamic calligraphy. The original Christian mosaics, depicting Christ, the Virgin Mary, and various saints, coexist with large medallions inscribed with the names of Allah and the Prophet Muhammad. The Christian art is obscured by large drapes, and angels at the four corners of the sanctuary have been altered a bit, but otherwise, they are still visible to visitors.

One of the most impressive features is the central dome, which rises nearly 180 feet above the floor. The dome is adorned with golden mosaics that catch the light streaming in through the windows, creating a celestial glow that adds to the mystical ambiance of the space. The massive marble pillars and intricately designed arches further enhance the architectural splendor of Hagia Sophia.

A Place of Worship and Reflection

Despite its transformation into a mosque, Hagia Sophia remains open to visitors of all faiths and backgrounds. The serene atmosphere and the sheer magnificence of the architecture make it a place of contemplation and reflection. We were fortunate to visit during a quiet time, allowing us to fully appreciate the spiritual and historical significance of this iconic structure.

Practical Information for Visitors

More Christian art visible above the doorway entrance to the main chapel/mosque.

Hagia Sophia is open to visitors daily, with specific hours designated for prayer. Hours of operation begin at 9am and run until 7:30 pm, with the exception of periods set aside for prayer. Modest dress is required, and women are asked to cover their heads. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated to help with the preservation of this historic site.

Conclusion

Our visit to Hagia Sophia was a highlight of our trip to Istanbul. The architectural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual ambiance of this magnificent structure left a lasting impression on us. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, Hagia Sophia is a must-visit destination that will leave you in awe of its timeless splendor.

Blue Mosque: An Inspiring Journey Through History and Architecture

My wife and I arrived for our two week tour to Turkey late in the evening. We spent the night at our hotel, the Millennium Golden Horn Hotel in Istanbul. After getting a good night’s rest, we ventured out in the morning to visit the first attraction on our tour, the Blue Mosque.

This iconic mosque was built at the turn of the seventeenth century (1609-1617). We were told a story (urban legend) about the mosque that was somewhat amusing. Sultan Ahmet I built the mosque to rival the nearby Hagia Sophia. His ambition was for the mosque to have golden minarets. The architect, Sedefkar Mehmet Ağa, misunderstood the word altin (golden) for alti (six), leading to the six minarets rather than golden minarets. Even though likely not true, I thought it was a fun story to share.

The Blue Mosque is an active mosque. As such, modest in dress and head coverings for females are requested. Visitors must also remove their shoes upon entering. As we approached the entrance, there was a ritual washing area with ample faucets for observers coming for worship.

After removing our shoes, we entered the massive mosque. There was a small area for storing shoes near the entrance. The elaborate tile work throughout the mosque was incredible. While I was expecting a bit more in the hue of blue, the attention to detail in the tiles was intricate. The massive structure was even more impressive considering that it was built more than four hundred years ago!

The Central dome was ornate and impressive. It was smaller than the Hagia Sophia and supported by four archways providing direct support for the dome. While not as old or massive as Hagia Sophia, it is nonetheless impressive. The intricacy of the tiling, colors and designs give it a distinct character that can’t really be compared. We left very impressed.

After returning to the entrance to retrieve our shoes, we exited to a small courtyard where we shod ourselves to continue our exploration of the nearby Hagia Sophia. While I was impressed by the Blue Mosque, I think the Hagia Sophia was far more impressive. With that said, this mosque stands as an impressive example of Ottoman Architecture. I would recommend a visit to both of these amazing historic structures.

The Blue Mosque is open from 9am until 6pm. As an active mosque, prayers are observed five times per day. Visitors are not permitted to enter during scheduled prayer times. However, visitors are permitted to pray during their visit, even if not during prayer times.

Read about my Two Week Adventure in Morocco!

Morocco in Two Amazing Weeks: Capitals, Camels, and Casbahs

My wife and I spent two fantastic weeks exploring Morocco. Our journey began with a flight to Morocco, where we were picked up and escorted to our hotel in Rabat. We spent two nights in Rabat, enjoying a comfortable if not spartan stay at the Belere Hotel. The hotel was comfortable and clean but in need of some updates.

Chellah Necropolis — OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

During our stay in Rabat, we visited several attractions. We started our exploration with a visit to the Royal Palace, which is close to the Belere Hotel. From there, we ventured out to the Chellah Necropolis. This historic site provided some great history dating back millennia. Chellah contained fascinating ruins that dated back to different eras. It was also fascinating for the wildlife that has taken up residency there, including storks, cats, and eels.

Our tour continued with a visit to Mausoleum of Mohammad V and the nearby Hassan Tower. While the Mausoleum and large plaza over to Hassan Tower were fascinating, my favorite part of this attraction was witnessing the changing of the Royal Guard. I have seen changing of the guard before, but never changing of a mounted guard.

We finished the day with a visit to the Kasbah of the Udayas. We navigated the inhabited Kasbah, taking time to snap some photos from atop the ramparts. The ramparts offered excellent views of the ocean and the Bouregreg River. We meandered down through the Kasbah to the lower garden area before heading back to the hotel.

After arriving back at the hotel, my wife and I adventured out on our own for a visit to the Rabat Medina. This was our first medina experience in Morocco. We would soon find out that each of the medinas we visited had its own charm and distinct character. Rabat’s featured wide alleys and was much smaller in comparison to others we visited as our trip continued.

After enjoying coffee and tea at the medina, we ventured down to the waterfront along the Bouregreg river. We took a very inexpensive taxi down to the waterfront, where we met a bunch of local boys jumping off the docks into the river. We struggled with broken French and Arabic to communicate with the boys, who wanted to snap photos with us.

The following morning, we packed up for our trip to Fez. While en route to Fez, we stopped to visit the Roman Ruins of Volubilis. While it was a bit off the beaten path, it was worth the trip. The amazing mosaics and reconstructed ruins were a fascinating link to Morocco’s ancient history. We explored the ruins and museum before heading to Fez.

In Fez, we arrived at the Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel, where we spent two nights. The hotel had a fantastic location. We stopped for a photo opportunity overlooking the Old Quarter of Fez from an ancient fort overlooking the city on our way to the hotel. We settled into the hotel before venturing out the following morning.

Leather Tannery at Medina in Fez, Morocco

After a good night’s sleep, we headed to one of the most fascinating medina’s, Fez Market. While navigating the labyrinth of shops and restaurants of Fez, we also stopped at an iconic Fez location: A Leather Tannery. The leather tannery was fascinating, as well as malodorous. The smell of cow urine and pigeon excrement used in the leather processing was overwhelming. We were provided with mint to help avert the assault on our nostrils. A carpet shop visit was also included as part of our medina visit.

We returned to the hotel to prepare for our next leg of the journey, traveling the following day to Erfoud. On our trip through the Mid-Atlas Mountains, we observed Barbary Apes. Our driver stopped to give us an opportunity to visit with the macaques and snap some photos. It was a surprising interaction with nature on our journey. We stopped again shortly after visiting with the apes to enjoy lunch at Kasbah Asmaa.

After lunch we continued to Erfoud, where we bedded down at Kasbah Hotel Xaluca Maadid. This was easily the most amazing hotel we stayed at on our journey. Our two nights at Xaluca Maadid felt like sheer luxury. In addition to an amazing room, the food was exceptional at this hotel. We dined for breakfast and dinner here.

The following morning, we began our sightseeing with a stop in Rissani to learn about Desert Fossils. We were given the opportunity to purchase ancient fossils in the form of plates, art, and other craftsmanship. One of the highlights of the trip followed our visit to the Rissani Souk…a Desert Sunset Camel Ride. The adventure began with 4x4s through the desert, dinner at a desert oasis culminating in a camel ride up the dunes to see the sun set. Iconic.

The following morning, we sadly said goodbye to our amazing hotel in Erfoud. We departed for our next overnight in Ouarzazate. En route, we stopped at the Todgha Gorge. We stopped to visit an overlook area with magnificent views of the valley before visiting the gorge. While it was a quick stop, we did have enough time to dip our toes in the cool springs of the gorge.

We departed the gorge, stopping for lunch at Yasmina Restaurant in Tinnerher. We continued after lunch to our hotel, Kenzi Azghor Hotel. The hotel needed updates during our stay, but it sounds like the hotel has undergone recent renovations. After getting settled into the hotel, we ventured out for dinner at Ovelix Restaurant. After dinner, we returned to the hotel to rest before another early start the following morning.

Ait Benhaddou viewed from across a nearby riverbed. — Ait Benhaddou from a distance.

After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out towards Marrakesh. On our way out of town, we stopped for a short visit to Kasbah de Taourirt. The most memorable aspect of this stop was the sheer amount of art available for sale at the Kasbah. After the kasbah, we stopped at Ait Benhaddou before continuing on to our hotel in Marrakesh, Le Meridien N’Fis Hotel.

After arriving at our hotel, we had some time to venture out to Marrakesh Medina and Souk. We had dinner in the Souk, which was bustling with activity in the evening. We found it to be a stark contrast when we visited during the daytime. After dinner, we returned to the hotel to rest for a full day of activities the next day.

Horse Carriage Ride in Marrakesh, Morocco

We had a great breakfast at Le Meridien before a full slate of activities. We began our sightseeing with Katoubia Mosque, a tour through the Marrakesh Medina, a cooking demonstration at Al Baraka Restaurant, and a Horse Carriage Ride through the Marrakesh Souk. After a full day of touring, we returned to the hotel.

The following day was a day trip to Essaouira. The three-hour trip in each direction made for a long but rewarding day. We made several interesting stops along the way that included taking photos with goats in the Goat Trees of Morocco. After stopping to visit the goats, we continued our drive toward Essaouira stopping again to visit Marjana Cooperative where we learned the history of argon oil.

Waterfront promenade in Essaouira, Morocco — Visiting Essaouira on a day trip.

Our Essaouira Day Trip finally led us to Essaouira, where we were given time to explore the walled old quarter. We stopped outside the walled city before entering to explore the shops and restaurants. We were also able to visit the ramparts where we had amazing views of the scenic waves crashing against the nearby breakers. I purchased an amazing “Fantasia” painting in Essaouira, as well as several other gifts. We returned to Marrakesh for another early day the following day.

From Marrakesh, we ventured on to our final stop, Casablanca. We arrived in Casablanca in time for lunch along the Corniche seaside. From there we did a half-day tour of the city that included stops at Hassan II Mosque and Our Lady of Lourdes Church, one of the few Catholic churches in Morocco. We finished our day at the Novotel Hotel, where we spent overnight before our flight home.

Lower gardens at Kasbah Udayas in Rabat, Morocco

Overall, our trip to Morocco was amazing. We visited several regions of the country, experiencing a wide range of Moroccan culture. One thing was always apparent, and that is the Moroccan people. While some of the vendors were aggressive at times, the people of Morocco were amazing. We felt safe, welcomed, and invited to enjoy the rich history and culture that Morocco has to offer. I would highly recommend any visit to Morocco to include a robust itinerary that includes as much of the country as you are able to see. The diverse climates and culture are worth experiencing.

Discovering Belere Hotel: A Comfortable Stay in Rabat

On my trip to Morocco, we stayed at six hotels during our two-week tour. Our hotel stays began in Rabat, Morocco’s capital city. The first hotel was the Belere Hotel, ranked #20 of 70 for Rabat on TripAdvisor. Our tour guide met us in the lobby, handed out our keys, and informed us of a meeting on the sixth floor later that evening.

Belere Hotel was somewhat basic but had friendly and accommodating staff. The room was a typical size for American travelers—compact but adequate for travel purposes. As expected in many parts of the world, the bed was firmer than those in North American hotels. The room had a small refrigerator, safe, television (which we never used), and a workstation. There were enough outlets for charging our electronics. The air conditioning was off, making the room a bit warm, and there seemed to be a leak as there was a wet spot in the carpet near the doorway.

The bathroom had some unique features. It included a bidet and a high step up to the tub/shower combination, which might be challenging for shorter or older travelers. Although it wasn’t an issue for us, it is worth noting. My biggest complaint about the hotel room was the poor Wi-Fi signal. It was barely adequate for checking email and was practically useless for anything else. The signal was better in the common areas and, thankfully, free if you could find it.

Breakfast was included with our stay, and we had it twice during our two nights there. The breakfast room was always crowded, making it hard to find a clean table. The food was fresh, with a decent selection of fruits, hot items, salads, and breads, but it frequently ran out and had to be replaced. The staff in the dining area worked hard to keep things clean and stocked. The coffee came from two Nespresso machines that constantly had lines. A carafe of ready-made coffee might be a good idea for large groups to keep things moving.

The hotel’s location is decent. Several restaurants are located two blocks down the street, and a couple of smaller places are within a block. The Medina is about a twenty-minute walk away, and taxi fares are cheap. The tram is also near the restaurants two blocks away and is fairly easy to navigate. My wife and I took a cab to the waterfront and the train back. Both were surprisingly inexpensive.

Belere Hotel is priced online under one hundred dollars per night. It is a nice hotel, and at under one hundred dollars is a fair price for what you receive. However, it’s important to manage expectations compared to US hotels. Belere Hotel has friendly staff, felt secure, the rooms were not as tiny as some I have stayed in, it is clean, the Wi-Fi is free if you can get a signal, and the breakfast is good. The location is convenient, with cheap transportation options nearby. I would consider staying at this hotel again but would likely check other options first.

The hotel also indicates that the rooms (89 rooms) have recently been renovated.

The Chellah Necropolis: Visiting A Historic Rabat Landmark

The Chellah Necropolis, near the heart of Rabat, Morocco, offers a glimpse into centuries of history. Chellah ranks as my top recommended destination in Rabat. Recognized as a World Heritage Site since 2012, Chellah’s historical significance is unmatched.

Drummer at entrance to Chellah Necropolis

As we entered Chellah, a drummer greeted us, blending dance and percussion. School groups were captivated by his performance, dancing along. This lively scene added a festive touch to the otherwise somber necropolis. Despite its abandonment for centuries, Chellah’s ruins stand as a testament to time. It offers high vantage points near the Bouregreg River, making it a haven for nesting storks.

Birds are among the wildlife that inhabits Chellah

History of Chellah Necropolis

Chellah’s history stretches back over two millennia. It traces roots to the Carthaginians and Phoenicians. In the second century, Christians inhabited the area, followed by Romans until the fifth century. Arab Muslims took control in the seventh century. Remnants of a madrasah, mosque, and an ornate minaret still stand, enduring centuries of neglect. An earthquake in the eighteenth century further damaged the site, but walls, tombs, and mausoleums remain scattered throughout.

Chellah’s Current Inhabitants

The primary inhabitants of Chellah are storks and numerous cats, reminiscent of Turkey’s cat population. These cats, like those in Turkey, are cared for by the community. Visitors often leave food and water for them. The cats wander freely, adding life to the ancient ruins. One cat even photo-bombed my picture, adding a touch of modernity to the historic site.

Eels at Chellah Necropolis

One intriguing feature of Chellah is Le Bassin Aux Anguilles, or the basin of the eels. This small pool, once a ritual bath, now houses eels. An elderly lady allows visitors to feed them for a small donation. Legend says girls seeking husbands find luck by tossing coins into the pool. Many coins gleam at the bottom, attesting to this belief.

Admission and Hours

Admission to Chellah Necropolis is 70 dirhams, about seven US dollars. The site is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM. The low admission fee provides access to historically rich ruins and lush gardens. An overlook area offers panoramic views of the river, often used by students for drawing and learning. If you visit Rabat and can only explore one site, make it Chellah. For shopping enthusiasts, the Medina is also a top choice.