Experience my epic travels through words and photos.
Author: John
I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.
Among the top attractions in Rabat is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. This site is ranked #3 on TripAdvisor’s list of 10 Best Things To Do In Rabat. Just across the courtyard is Hassan Tower, ranked #5. Together, they create a captivating visit that takes less than an hour to visit.
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is on Yacoub al-Mansour Esplanade in Rabat, adjacent to Avenue Tour Hassan. Both entrances to the sprawling courtyard are guarded by mounted Moroccan Royal Guards in ornate red uniforms. Inside, guards also protect each of the four entrances and the interior corners of the mausoleum.
Visitors climb a set of stairs to enter the Mausoleum on the upper level. From here, you can look down at the large tomb of Mohammed V, centered on the floor below and surrounded by Moroccan flags. Two additional tombs of his sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah, rest on the lower floor. The mausoleum is a stunning Alaouite structure with a striking white exterior, green roof, and lavishly decorated interior.
Between the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower lies a large plaza filled with cylindrical columns. These columns were intended to support a massive mosque begun by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour in the late twelfth century. Hassan Tower was meant to be the world’s largest minaret at nearly 300 feet. However, the Sultan’s death halted construction, leaving the tower at half its intended height.
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower are free to visit. Restrooms and vendors selling small trinkets and food are located near the far entrance. As we were leaving, we caught the changing of the guard for the mounted Palace Guard, a perfect end to our visit.
The Kasbah of the Udayas (Casbah des Oudaias) is a waterfront focal point of Rabat, located off Rue de Consuls along the Bouregreg River. First built during the Almoravid Dynasty, the kasbah was later rebuilt by the Almohad Caliphate in the mid-twelfth century. The kasbah was deserted at the end of the twelfth century but is now a bustling hive of activity.
A Walk Through History
We entered the kasbah at the higher elevation of the fortress, greeted by narrow walkways adorned in blue and white. Vendors and shops lined our path as we made our way to the stunning shoreline vantage point. From there, we navigated through another series of alleyways to the lower section of the kasbah, featuring a lush garden. The kasbah offers an exceptional view of the surrounding region, making it the perfect spot for a fortification.
A Unique Experience
The Kasbah of the Udayas, inhabited for centuries by sultans and refugees, also houses Rabat’s oldest mosque. The merchants near the entrance and walkways were laid-back, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. The colorful blue and white hues gave the kasbah a Mediterranean feel, enhanced by the nearby waterfront view.
The lower entrance’s lush gardens were immaculately tended. Despite the tempting tea service in the outdoor seating, we continued our exploration due to the heat. The Kasbah of the Udayas is a must-see in Rabat, offering rich history and breathtaking views.
To understand the Rabat Medina, I will begin by defining the term medina. The essence of Moroccan history can be felt in the old quarters of its cities. These areas, called Medinas, translate as “city.” Medinas are vibrant hubs with fresh produce, textiles, crafts, clothing, and restaurants. They offer visitors an experience that appeals to all senses. The smell of barbecued meat, the rich colors of fresh produce, and the cacophony of trade. The taste of freshly squeezed juice and rich textures are also experiences to behold. While they are a tourist’s dream, most trade in the Medinas is conducted by locals.
Rabat’s Unique Medina
Each Medina has its own character. The Rabat Medina has wider alleyways than Fez, laid out in a navigable grid. Generally, traffic in the Medina is restricted to foot traffic, though we occasionally encountered motor scooters. In Rabat, there was some vehicle traffic beyond the construction, but it was in an area without shops. Navigating the Rabat Medina was very easy. As the first Medina we visited, we had no comparison, but in retrospect, it was the smallest.
Sensory Delights
The smell of food in the Rabat Medina was powerful. The tram side of the Medina had the most traffic. There were a few classy restaurants along the main road, but we chose a small restaurant inside the Medina. It had chicken shawarma roasting on a spit, and we both opted for the shawarma sandwich. The sandwiches were served with hand-cut, crisp, and fresh French fries. The shawarma was on a tortilla, pressed like a panini. It was served with harissa sauce, adding a tasty fire to the sandwich. The bill came to around five dollars with the tip. Incredible! The restaurant was very clean and had a great rooftop view.
Exploring Local Shops
Walking around the Rabat Medina, we noticed phone stores among the shops. They seemed to offer “top-up” cards, SIM cards, and prepaid phones. Some appeared to do repairs as well. The throwback advertising in these shops was interesting. We also noticed art shops with paintings depicting local scenes. One painting that caught my eye was of the horsemanship contest known as Fantasia. Although I did not buy it in Rabat, I eventually purchased a blue version in Essaouira.
Relaxing in a Coffee Shop
After navigating the Rabat Medina, we took a break in a coffee shop. We noticed there were no women in the cafe except my wife. It seemed cafes were gathering places for men. After coffee, mint tea, and water, we ventured back out. We headed to the Bouregreg Marina for a stroll before returning to our hotel. The Medina was a fun place to explore. Ranked as the #7 place to visit in Rabat according to TripAdvisor, it is a must-see. Despite being touristy, it is also frequented by locals, giving visitors a true feel of Rabat.
Historical Insights into the Rabat Medina
The Rabat Medina is a historic quarter that dates back to the 12th century. It was established by the Almohad dynasty and later expanded by the Merenids in the 13th century. The Medina was strategically positioned near the Bouregreg River, facilitating trade and defense. Its well-preserved Andalusian architecture, narrow streets, and vibrant markets reflect a blend of Arab, Berber, and Andalusian influences. The Medina is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses the entire city of Rabat, recognized for its historical and cultural significance.
The Roman Ruins of Volubilis, named after the ipomoea volubilis (morning glory) flower, are a captivating historical site located near Meknes, Morocco. These ancient ruins tell the story of a city that saw significant growth and transformation under Roman rule. The area was first inhabited around the third or fourth century BC by Berbers and Phoenicians.
History of Volubilis
Around the first century, Volubilis expanded rapidly under Roman control, covering approximately 100 acres. Positioned at the southwestern edge of the Roman empire, the city was challenging to defend and eventually fell to local tribes. Before the arrival of Islam, Volubilis was a Christian city and later became the seat of government for Idris Ibn Abdallah, the founder of Morocco.
Volubilis was abandoned by the eleventh century but remained largely intact until an earthquake in the eighteenth century destroyed much of the city. The ruins were scavenged to build the nearby city of Meknes. Despite this, the site still offers a wealth of historical insights. The massive area has only been partially excavated, but portions of the ruins have been reconstructed to provide visitors with a glimpse of the original layout. While not as intact as some other Roman ruins, Volubilis still allows visitors to visualize the ancient city’s basic structure.
The city was built on a high vantage point, providing stunning views of the surrounding low-lying natural areas. The ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which helps ensure their preservation for future generations. Despite this designation, many of the site’s mosaics remain unprotected from the elements. However, the United States funded a project in 2023 to protect some of the ancient tile work. The mosaics are remarkably well-preserved, with some having been reconstructed for visitors.
Exploring the Ruins of Volubilis
Walking through the ruins, visitors can explore various buildings and structures that have been preserved or reconstructed. These efforts aim to give insight into the city’s layout and the cultural aspects of the Roman era. The mosaics depict various scenes, offering glimpses into the games and religious observances of the time. Notable features of the site include a rebuilt press, a pool, an aqueduct, and other unique structures. The site’s extensive history and cultural significance make it a fascinating place to explore.
Near the entrance to the ruins, several exhibits showcase columns, capitals, and other artifacts recovered from the site. There is also a small museum with models of the olive press found in the ruins, as well as small lanterns and sculptures. While the museum does not have an extensive collection, it is worth a visit for its informative and interesting exhibits.
Admission and Hours
Entrance to the ruins is through a gate dating back to the second century. The admission fee is 70 dirhams, roughly nineteen US dollars, making it an affordable destination. The site is open from 8:30 am until an hour before sunset.
Final Thoughts on My Visit to Volubilis
For history enthusiasts, a trip to Volubilis is a must. Despite being off the beaten path, it is well worth the detour. Located nearly midway between Rabat and Fez, the site requires a significant drive off the main route, but the journey is undeniably worthwhile. Volubilis is one of Morocco’s hidden treasures, offering a unique glimpse into the country’s rich historical tapestry.
The Roman Ruins of Volubilis offer an extraordinary journey through time, showcasing the city’s transformation under Roman rule, its Christian and Muslim heritage, and its role in the foundation of Morocco. The site’s historical significance, combined with its stunning mosaics and well-preserved structures, make it an essential destination for any history buff or cultural enthusiast visiting Morocco.
During our visit to Fez, we stayed at the Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel. Located at Avenue Hassan II, the hotel is conveniently situated right off the main parkway. The modern-looking hotel appears to be part of a chain. As part of a tour group, our rooms were already assigned and ready upon arrival. Our room was on the third floor, not too far from the elevators.
Barcelo Fes Medina Room Experience and Amenities
The Barcelo Fes Medina hotel had a modern look. The room required a key card to power the outlets. We noticed two beds rather than a king bed. Often, a “king” bed overseas is just two full beds pushed together. They offered to remake the beds while we were out for the day.
When we returned, the beds were made up as promised. However, the dip in the middle can be a bit irritating. It is a minor inconvenience. The room had a modern look but needed some upkeep. The wallpaper was peeling, the shower couldn’t be fully set without flooding, and the toilet was slow to flush. Despite these issues, the room was very clean. Additionally, it appears this hotel recently underwent renovations.
Barcelo Fes Medina Hotel Facilities and Location
The room faced the parkway, which was lively during our stay. Young families strolled along the plaza, and running clubs passed by. We were close to the elevators, where the wifi repeater was located. Unfortunately, the wifi was useless in the room but worked well in the common areas. The lobby had a large, open floor plan, giving it a modern European feel. The room price can be as low as 50-60 dollars per night, offering good value. Breakfast was included, with eggs made to order and a variety of hot and cold items.
The hotel is near a large mall and several cafes, offering plenty of dining options. During our stay, the hotel switched their system to air conditioning, making it the most comfortable room on our trip.
Final Impressions
The staff at Barcelo Fes Medina hotel were very accommodating, and the food was good. The location is convenient, with minor room repair issues and potential plumbing problems. Despite these, the room was comfortable and clean, with a modern feel needing slight updates. The hotel is currently ranked 48 out of 161 on TripAdvisor, and enjoys a four-star rating.
Overall, I had a favorable impression of the hotel and would consider staying there again in the future. It was a decent hotel at a reasonable price. Particularly since it appears that this hotel has undergone renovations recently.
The center of commerce and social interaction in Morocco gravitates toward her medinas. The medina is the old city, a place where merchants, tourists, and locals intersect. Of all the medinas in Morocco, Fez Medina may be the most famous.
The Maze of Fez Medina
Fez Medina is a labyrinth with over 9,400 streets and alleyways. It’s easy to get lost in the massive market. We traversed the medina with a guide, so getting in and out was not an issue. But I wouldn’t have wanted to navigate it alone.
Narrow Alleyways and Unique Sights
The most striking feature of Fez Medina is its narrow alleyways. It’s not uncommon to encounter a donkey or mule in the often narrow passageways. Winding through the medina offers exposure to the sights, sounds, and smells of Morocco. From grilled meat to bright fresh vegetables to the cacophony of barter, the marketplace is an assault on the senses. Navigating with a guide takes the pressure off, allowing us to absorb the culture of the ancient city.
Historical and Cultural Richness
Fez was founded in the ninth century and is home to the world’s oldest university. Fez was in its heyday in the Middle Ages when it served as the capital of Morocco. In some ways, it retains the heartbeat of Morocco, serving as a cultural capital, if not the political seat of government.
Fez was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1981. It is a culturally rich area that has retained a mystique largely embedded in the medina. No automobiles are permitted in the medina, allowing the area to retain an intimate connection with its past. Walls are often buttressed against each other with large beams visible to visitors among the narrow routes through the medina.
The Ubiquity of Cats and Other Animals
Cats are ubiquitous in Morocco. They aren’t necessarily pets, but they are taken care of communally, it seems. It was not uncommon for us to run into a cat with her kittens as we trekked through the medina. Aside from cats, we encountered a variety of other live animals, from horses to donkeys to chickens. The animals added to the market atmosphere of the medina.
Visits to Key Stops
During this trip, we visited a madrassa, a carpet factory, and a leather shop. The leather shop was an experience unto itself. Here are a few additional photos of our other stops along the way.
Fez Medina Leatherworks
Fez Medina Madrassa
Fez Medina Carpet Shop
A Day Well Spent at the Fez Medina
We spent the better part of a day navigating the Fez Medina. It would be easy to spend a full day here. Or even two. We had the opportunity to buy carpets, leather, and a host of other crafts. I will leave you with some photographs of the medina that speak volumes more than what I could describe. You can get an idea for the eclectic feel of the place.
One of Morocco’s iconic sights are the ancient Fez Leather Tanneries. Navigating the labyrinth of alleyways, our group arrived at an unmarked door. We climbed a steep, narrow set of stairs, arriving in an outer room of a leather shop.
The Mint Trick
We were handed sprigs of mint, which were surprisingly helpful. The leather tanning process has a strong odor, worsened by soaking hides in cow urine and pigeon poop.
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The Fez Leather Tanneries Overview
We navigated through multiple rooms, ending up on balconies overlooking the processing area. From here, we saw vats of dye and drying skins everywhere. An employee explained the curing and dyeing process before we explored the shop.
Shopping at the Fez Leather Tanneries
The leather shops sell items made from camel, cow, goat, and sheep leather. Camel leather is the most expensive and durable. Some items still smelled foul, but the odor dissipates with time. Camel leather items did not have an offensive odor.
The Art of Bargaining
I bought a pouf, and my wife purchased a purse. Prices are inflated, so bargaining is essential. Items are expensive because they are genuine leather and merchants think tourists have money. Bargaining practices are crucial to getting a fair price.
Sensory Overload
The medina’s leather shops assault your senses with colors, textures, and smells. The colorful patterns and rich textures are visually stunning, but the smell is something you can’t forget.
A Memorable Experience
Our trip to Morocco was filled with amazing sights, like goats climbing trees. Yet, the tanneries at Fez Medina stood out as one of the most iconic images of Morocco. The blend of history, hard work, and artistry made it worth the sensory overload. And yes, the mint helps.
While traveling from Fez to Erfoud by bus, our tour group encountered a troop of Barbary Apes. Also known as Macaques or magots, these primates are unique in Africa. The apes reside in the Atlas Mountains located in Morocco and Algeria. This is the only place they are known to exist outside of Asia.
An Unplanned Stop with the Apes
Our stop was unscheduled, but our bus driver pulled to the side of the road at the urgent pleading of our fellow passengers. Everyone wanted to get out and see the apes. The apes did not seem to mind our stopping, although they kept a fair distance from us. Not far, but out of arm’s reach.
Close Encounters with Barbary Ape Families
Several mama apes, with their black babies tightly wrapped to their chests, were curious about our arrival. I was surprised at how close the nursing mothers got to us. We were able to get some awesome photos and great video, although some were out of focus or shot upside down.
Fascinating Facts about Barbary Apes
A few facts about these fascinating creatures: Macaques rear children in alloparental care, meaning the males help rear the children. While they are called Barbary Apes, they are actually monkeys. The Barbary Ape lives to be between twenty-five and thirty years old, with females generally outliving males by several years.
The Joy of Unexpected Travel Experiences
Traveling can be rewarding in unexpected ways. With a full itinerary, you usually have a pretty good idea of what you will see. But the joy of unexpected experiences like this one makes travel all the more exciting. Interacting with monkeys in the wild, especially when you didn’t know they were in Africa, was special!
Conclusion: A Rare Treat in the Mid-Atlas Mountains
If you find yourself traversing the Mid-Atlas Mountains in Morocco, watch for the Barbary Apes! You are in for a rare treat.
Crossing the desert from Fez to Erfoud took the better part of a day. We didn’t drive straight through or rush. When traveling, particularly by bus, it’s nice to stop and smell the roses. Before stopping for lunch at the Kasbah Asmaa, we had a short visit with wild Barbary Apes alongside the road we were traveling.
Unplanned Stop with Barbary Apes
Our journey included an unplanned stop in the middle-Atlas Mountains. Here, we interacted with a troop of Barbary Apes. This unexpected experience added a delightful touch to our day.
Lunch at Kasbah Asmaa
We stopped for lunch at a desert restaurant and hotel called Kasbah Asmaa. The restaurant is located at Route d’Er Rachidia, Midelt 54350, Morocco. Midelt is strategically placed about halfway between Fez and Erfoud, making it a convenient stop.
Convenient Location and Spacious Parking
Kasbah Asmaa sits right along the highway with plenty of parking. The parking can accommodate tourist buses, making it accessible for large groups. The restaurant is large enough to seat several buses at a time. However, it wasn’t crowded during our visit.
Unique Dining Atmosphere at Kasbah Asmaa
We chose a room at the back of the restaurant where our entire group could fit. The rooms were different colors, with photos and pictures on the otherwise sparsely occupied walls. Our room was green with small chandeliers hanging beneath mildly gaudy colored glass.
Limited Menu but Tasty Options
The lunch menu was a bit limited but offered something for everyone. It featured traditional Moroccan fare, primarily a variety of tajines. The daily special was fish. I ordered the chicken tajine, a dish I enjoyed throughout Morocco. It’s flavorful and always on the menu. My wife ordered the same but asked for white meat. Both dishes were tasty, although her chicken was a bit tougher.
Beverage Options and Pricing at Kasbah Asmaa
My lunch included a choice of drink. Morocco is a Muslim country, but you can usually buy beer and wine. I had a choice between Casablanca Beer or Flag Speciale. I opted for the Flag, a typical lager that was decent. The food was good, which is most important. Tajines cost around seven to eight dollars, standard for the places we visited.
Service and Facilities
Service at Kasbah Asmaa was decent but nothing to brag about. It was difficult to get the waiter’s attention, except when he took our order. The menus were in English, making things easier. The bathrooms were moderately clean and required a small fee. While not the most exceptional meal, the food was good and the atmosphere interesting.
Final Thoughts
Kasbah Asmaa provided a pleasant lunch stop on our journey from Fez to Erfoud. The experience with the Barbary Apes and the unique atmosphere of the restaurant made it memorable. If you find yourself on this route, Kasbah Asmaa is a convenient and tasty option.
Copa Airlines recently started a non-stop flight between Raleigh and Panama City. I decided to check ticket prices for the 4th of July weekend. Prices were reasonable, with basic tickets under $500 and main economy under $600. The latter included seat selection and checked baggage. I opted for main economy, paying less than $1200 for my wife and me.
Arrival in Panama City
We flew down to Panama on the July 3rd flight, arriving in Terminal 1 early. The flight was pleasant, lasting about four hours. Our luggage was delivered to Terminal 2, requiring a half-mile walk to immigration. Immigration was nearly empty, allowing us to clear quickly. After the fifteen-minute walk, our luggage was waiting just past immigration.
Getting to the Hotel
I ordered an Uber to our hotel, not knowing what to expect. It ended up being super easy. The Uber pick-up zone is just outside baggage claim. Our Uber arrived quickly, followed by a twenty-minute drive to our hotel in Panama City. After checking in, I spent a few minutes confirming our tour for the next morning with Almiza Tours.
Day 1 in Panama: Gatun Lake and Monkeys
We got ready for our trip and headed down to the lobby to wait for our ride. Almiza Tours arrived as scheduled. We boarded the bus for an amazing trip to Lake Gatun that lasted the entire morning. After visiting all three types of monkeys found on Lake Gatun, we were returned to our hotel. My wife and I ventured out for lunch before our next scheduled event.
Lunch at Almeria
Our hotel was located next to an “outlet mall” that was nearly vacant. We decided to explore Balboa Boutique, a nearby strip mall. After a five-minute walk, we found several appealing restaurants and settled on Almeria, a Spanish restaurant. It was the best meal we had in Panama, and the lunch special was affordable.
Chocolate Making at Nome Chocolates
After lunch, we returned to the hotel to regroup. We had a 4 pm class at Nome Chocolates to learn to make chocolate. After a short Uber ride to Casco Viejo, we had time to explore before our class. We walked around Independence Plaza, exploring gift shops, stopping for coffee, and then heading to Nome for our class. The chocolate-making class was more demonstration than hands-on, but very informative. It culminated in making our own chocolate bar and a sampling session.
Strolling Through Cinta Costera Park
After our class, we headed to Sisu Coffee Studio to try the Geisha coffee but arrived too late. We decided to stroll back to our hotel, passing through Cinta Costera Park. The park runs along Panama Bay between the sea wall and the Pan-American highway, offering a scenic and leisurely stroll.
Dinner and Day 2 Plans
We arrived back at our hotel just after dark. We had a late dinner at Petit Bon before settling in for the night. The following morning, we had breakfast at the hotel before catching an Uber to Miraflores Locks. We arrived in time for the early showing of the 3D IMAX movie on the Panama Canal, giving us time to explore the visitors center before heading back to Casco Viejo.
Day 2 in Panama: Casco Viejo and Cooking
We took an Uber back to Casco Viejo and were dropped directly at Sisu Coffee Studio. We purchased a Geisha Coffee and Matcha Latte. The coffee was disappointing and expensive. I had planned to purchase a pound but changed my mind after tasting it. We then explored the Metropolitan Basilica before heading to our Panamanian Cooking Class.
Cooking Class and Dinner
The cooking class included a walk to the meat, produce, and fish markets. After obtaining our ingredients, we returned to the restaurant to prepare our meal. We spent the entire afternoon learning about Panama, cooking, and our guide Jorge’s personal story. After finishing the class, we enjoyed the meal we prepared. It was tasty and authentic.
Day 3 in Panama: Embera Village
We met our tour guide, Esteban, for our excursion to visit the Embera Village. We picked up our group of eleven before heading towards the village. The visit included cultural lessons, a meal, dancing, and demonstrations. We also toured the village and purchased handmade crafts. Our return trip included a waterfall stop before heading back to our hotels.
Dinner at El Trapiche
I asked our guide for a dinner recommendation and went to El Trapiche. It was recommended by others as well. The restaurant reminded me of a diner in the US. It offered authentic Panamanian fare at reasonable prices. However, the meat was tough in both entrees, making the meal unenjoyable.
Heading Home
We returned to our hotel after dinner to pack for our trip home. We took an Uber to the airport in the morning. Traffic was light, so we arrived early, giving us plenty of time to check in, drop our bags, and clear security. The process was quick and seamless, getting us on our journey home.
Summary
Our trip was amazing. Three full days seemed adequate to explore Panama City, but there are many more excursions to take. There is enough to do for a full week, possibly more. We checked the top things off our list and managed to squeeze them into three days without feeling rushed. It was an amazing trip that I would highly recommend. Most notably, the Panamanian people are incredible hosts. They were very welcoming, no matter where we interacted.
