Experience my epic travels through words and photos.
Author: John
I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.
During my travels in Armenia, I visited the awe-inspiring Geghard Monastery, an ancient complex carved into the cliffs of the Azat River Gorge. Known for its remarkable architecture and deep spiritual significance, Geghard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that left a lasting impression on me.
Geghard Monastery Carved from Stone
Geghard Monastery, founded in the 4th century, is renowned for its rock-hewn churches and chapels. As I approached the monastery, its stone-carved facade seemed to emerge from the mountainside itself, blending perfectly with the rugged natural surroundings. The setting, surrounded by towering cliffs and lush greenery, created a serene and almost mystical atmosphere.
The complex includes various churches and tombs, many of which are entirely cut into the rock. The main chapel, built in the 13th century, stands at the heart of the monastery, but it’s the subterranean chambers, with their dark, echoing interiors, that make Geghard truly unique. The dimly lit rooms, adorned with centuries-old carvings and crosses, made me feel as though I had stepped back into an ancient world of devotion and mystery.
The Holy Spear and the Sacred Past
Geghard is also famous for its historical and religious significance. According to tradition, the monastery once housed the Holy Spear, believed to be the lance that pierced Jesus’ side during the Crucifixion. While the original spear is now kept in the Echmiadzin Cathedral, the monastery’s name, “Geghardavank,” meaning “Monastery of the Spear,” reflects this sacred connection. Walking through the monastery, I could sense the deep reverence that this place has held for pilgrims over the centuries.
A Peaceful Sanctuary
The peacefulness of Geghard was one of the most striking aspects of my visit. The sound of water trickling from the natural springs around the site, combined with the echo of ancient prayers still resonating within the stone walls, created an atmosphere of tranquility. I took a moment to light a candle and reflect in one of the small chapels, feeling a profound sense of calm amidst the weight of history.
A Blend of Nature and Spirituality
As I explored the monastery grounds, the harmonious blend of nature and architecture stood out. The towering cliffs surrounding Geghard seem to guard the sacred space, and the simple beauty of the ancient structures contrasted with the rugged landscape. The monastery’s connection to the surrounding nature gave it a spiritual depth, as if the mountains themselves were a part of the monastery’s story.
Final Thoughts on Geghard Monastery
Visiting Geghard Monastery was an unforgettable experience. Its unique architecture, deep historical roots, and peaceful atmosphere made it one of the most memorable stops on my journey through Armenia. For anyone seeking a blend of natural beauty, history, and spirituality, Geghard is a must-see. The monastery offers a chance to step into Armenia’s ancient past while connecting with the serene spirit that still lives within its stone walls.
During my journey through Armenia, I had the chance to visit Goshavank Monastery, a historic site nestled in the beautiful Tavush region. This medieval monastery, surrounded by lush green hills and a peaceful atmosphere, offered a window into Armenia’s rich cultural and spiritual past. Although it was a rainy day, the weather did little to dampen my spirits.
A Glimpse into Goshavank Monastery History
Goshavank Monastery, founded in the 12th century by the famous Armenian scholar Mkhitar Gosh, served as both a religious and educational center. Mkhitar Gosh was an influential figure in Armenian history, known for his works in law, literature, and theology. His legacy lives on in the manuscripts and artifacts still preserved within the monastery. The complex includes several buildings, with Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) Church standing at the heart of it.
The Scenic Approach
As I approached the monastery, I was struck by the serene landscape. The road leading to Goshavank winds through picturesque villages and forests, creating a sense of calm even before reaching the site. The tranquil surroundings and crisp mountain air made the journey a part of the experience. Upon arrival, the ancient stone walls of the monastery, set against the backdrop of the rolling hills, created a breathtaking scene.
Exploring Goshavank Monastery
Walking through the monastery complex, I admired the architecture that has withstood centuries of history. The intricate stone carvings, especially the khachkars (cross-stones), revealed the artistry and devotion of the people who once lived and prayed here. Inside the main church, the simple, unadorned interior invited quiet reflection, a stark contrast to the detailed exterior carvings.
A Sense of Tranquility
Goshavank felt like a place where time slowed down. The peacefulness of the setting, combined with the historical significance, made it easy to lose myself in thought. As I wandered the grounds, I could sense the centuries of faith and scholarship that once thrived in this monastery.
A Lasting Impression
My visit to Goshavank Monastery was a memorable experience, filled with moments of reflection and awe. The blend of natural beauty and historical importance made this site truly special. For anyone traveling through Armenia, Goshavank offers a serene escape and a chance to connect with the country’s spiritual heritage.
During my recent travels, I visited the stunning Sevanavank Monastery, located on the shores of Lake Sevan in Armenia. This ancient site, with its rich history and breathtaking views, was a deeply spiritual experience.
The Historic Sevanavank Monastery
Sevanavank Monastery dates back to the 9th century, founded by Princess Mariam of Armenia. Originally, it served as a haven for monks seeking isolation. Over time, it became a vital religious center in the region. The monastery consists of two main churches, Surb Arakelots (Holy Apostles) and Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God). Both stand as testaments to Armenia’s long and proud Christian history.
The Scenic Approach
As I approached Sevanavank, Lake Sevan’s natural beauty immediately impressed me. The deep blue waters and surrounding mountains provided a stunning backdrop. Climbing the stone steps to the monastery felt like stepping back in time. The path, flanked by wildflowers and the cool lake breeze, added to the serenity of the experience.
As you hike the steep hillside, you can pause to absorb the scenery or to browse art from local artists. At an elevation over 6,000 feet, visitors might find a brief stop or two to be a welcome opportunity to catch their breath as well. While the hike requires a modest amount of fitness, the views at the top are worth the effort. As are the historic church buildings.
A Moment of Reflection at Sevanavank Monastery
Once I reached the top, the monastery’s peaceful atmosphere allowed for quiet reflection. The ancient stone churches stood proudly against the sky. Inside, I felt a profound sense of history and spirituality. The small chapels, filled with flickering candles, offered a sacred space for contemplation.
The View from the Sevanavank Monastery
From the monastery, I took in breathtaking views of Lake Sevan and the surrounding landscape. The panoramic view was nothing short of spectacular, with the calm waters below and the distant mountains stretching into the horizon. It felt like a place where nature and spirituality merged perfectly.
A Lasting Impression
My visit to Sevanavank left me with a deep appreciation for Armenia’s history and natural beauty. This ancient site, with its rich religious heritage and stunning setting, was truly unforgettable. For anyone traveling to Armenia, the Monastery at Lake Sevan is a must-see—a place where history, faith, and nature come together.
Our two-week Tour of Greece almost didn’t seem enough. It was just enough time to hit some of the highlights along with a side trip to Crete. Our trip was immensely rewarding, peppered with history, culture, scenery and excellent food. Coming in at a price tag less than two thousand dollars per person, we managed to pack in great punch for the price point. Following I will explore the highlights of our trip.
One of our first stops after checking in to the Athenian Callirhoe Hotel was the Plaka. We arrived a day early for our guided tour, so we booked a foodie tour through Viator. This gave us a great head start on the foodie aspects of our trip. Our starting point was the Plaka, where we enjoyed coffee before heading out around the city to experience the flavors of Athens. Afterwards, we visited Syntagma Square, before returning to our hotel.
We met later that evening with our tour guide, Yanni, who provided us with insights into our upcoming trip. After getting acquainted with our guide, we retired for the evening for a full day of touring the next day. Our tour began at the Acropolis Museum, where we explored many of the exhibits and artifacts from the neighboring Parthenon. After exploring the museum, we ascended to the Parthenon. While partially covered in scaffolding, the immense scale of the structure still impressed. The views of Athens from the Decapolis were also amazing.
We departed the next morning en route to the ruins of Olympus. On the way, we stopped at the Corinth Canal to stretch our legs. The scale of the canal was impressive, with steep canyon walls dropping to the water below. The views from the footbridge and viewing platforms along the canal were fascinating. Our next stop on the journey was the ruins of Ancient Mycenae. We were able to walk through the pathways of the ruins, exploring the massive ancient village overlooking the nearby valleys. The location seemed ideal for defense against potential threats or invaders. We finished the day checking in to the Europa Hotel in Olympia to prepare for another full day of sightseeing.
We rose early the following day to get a head start on our exploration. Our day began by exploring the incredible ruins of Ancient Olympia. We were able to have a footrace on the original running track as well as visiting the various temples and landmarks. Our tour for the day finished at the Olympic Museum, where we were able to see additional exhibits from the ancient games. We were also able to relax at the nearby gift shop before heading back out on our adventure.
The foodie in me was excited by our next adventure…learning to cook at Touris Club! We had the opportunity to use fresh ingredients to prepare a variety of dishes before enjoying the buffet spread of traditional Greek food. The cooking and dining was followed by further cultural immersion in the form of dancing. Our dance instructors showed us some basic steps before pressing us into service to perform. It was a blast. And an excellent indoor way to avoid an otherwise rainy day (great timing).
After our amazing cultural experiences at Touris Club, we departed towards Delphi. On the way, we stopped at sunset in the amazing town of Nafpaktos. This seaside town is not only scenic, but full of rich history. We took our time exploring the town, enjoying refreshments and watching the sunset on the amazing waterfront. As the sun went down, we resumed our journey toward Delphi. Our day ended with our check-in at the V Hotel in Delphi. We explored the nearby town before settling in for the evening.
We started another adventurous day by heading to the ancient ruins at Delphi. As we ascended the hillside, we were amazed at many of the well-preserved structures, like the ancient treasury building. The foundation of the temple was also amazingly intact (although there may have been some reconstruction in the past). It was easy to get a sense of the size and scale of the area. As we descended back down the hill, we took time to stop at the Delphi Archaeological Museum to see additional artifacts and history of the site.
Our journey around the Greek mainland returned us to Athens, where we checked back into the Athenian Callirhoe Hotel. My wife and I went for a nice dinner at an Indian Restaurant nearby before settling in to prepare for our flight to Crete the following day. I didn’t review the restaurant, but I remember our visit to Namaste Indian Restaurant as having been a great experience. Maybe I should have taken some photos of our meal there!
The following morning, we packed up for the airport for our Aegean Airlines flight to Heraklion. Upon arrival, we checked into the Galaxy Hotel. We then spent the afternoon on a foot tour of Heraklion. We were able to visit quite a few sites, to include the fountain, where we watched in amusement as a local busker used a puppet to perform traditional Cretan music. A classic Cretan meal was also on our radar for dinner. Our recommended dinner spot was Peskesi Restaurant, where we enjoyed an amazing meal. The portions were enormous, the flavors exceptional and the price affordable. For classic Cretan food, this would be our first recommendation in Heraklion.
The following day, we set out to visit some of the sites in Crete. We started by learning about traditional Cretan pottery at Keramion Pottery. After making a couple of purchases, we continued on to explore the Palace of Knossos. Known in popular culture for the minotaur and labyrinth, we were able to see a great deal of the partially restored ruins. The ruins themselves were stretched out across a massive complex. It was as relaxing as it was informative. We returned to Heraklion later that evening in time to take in another massively portioned dinner at Ligo Krasi, Ligo Thalassi Restaurant.
The following morning included another journey away from Heraklion to explore Crete. This included a visit to the Monastery of Arkadi, where Cretans fought valiantly against Ottoman occupation. After exploring the monastery, we continued to the quaint seaside town of Rethymno. Our visit to Rethymno was highlighted by an amazing demonstration from a master of baklava. We enjoyed a local lunch as well as incredible views of the water from the sleepy harbor.
Before saying goodbye to Crete, we spent some time exploring Heraklion and buying local souvenirs. We also stopped down by the seawall to visit the Monastery of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It was interesting to see the various layers of excavation revealing centuries of past building and destruction. We spent the night in Heraklion before heading back to Athens for a couple of days on our own before returning home.
I am a huge fan of Marriott. I will usually book Marriott properties if I am not booking through an organized tour. Because we had a couple of more nights on our own, I booked at the Moxy Hotel for our final two nights in Athens. I booked partially based on price and partially based on location. I was unfamiliar with the Moxy brand by Marriott. The funky hotel is geared toward a younger demographic but was comfortable and reliable based on my experience with Marriott standards for their hotels.
Our final day in Athens was spent exploring different historic sites we missed on the organized tour. We were able to do some last minute shopping and also make a return trip to Mars Hill, also known as the Aeropagus. Our first visit was brief, as we were more focused on the Parthenon at that beginning of our tour.
Our return visit allowed us time to walk down the hillside from the peak and explore some of the remaining structures from past eras. We were able to see the outlines of former buildings, stairs and other structures throughout the site. We were also treated to some amazing views overlooking Athens. It was a fun and relaxing way to spend our final day in Athens before returning to our hotel to prepare for our trip home.
The following morning, we headed back to the Athens airport for our journey home. With that in mind, I count 25 links that share our experiences in Greece. Enjoy reading about our experiences in greater depth! If you are thinking about a trip to Greece, there are plenty of ideas here to draw from. Feel free to share your own experiences as well.
For the final two nights of our trip, we stayed at Moxy Hotel in Athens. Located in the heart of the city, this modern and vibrant hotel was the perfect choice to close out our Greek adventure. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with the Moxy’s signature mix of youthful energy and stylish design. It was clear that this wasn’t just any ordinary hotel stay.
The hotel’s lobby immediately set the tone with its lively atmosphere, featuring bold décor, playful lighting, and a mix of cozy seating areas. The check-in process was seamless, and we were even greeted with a welcome drink. The staff’s enthusiasm and friendliness made us feel right at home.
Our room was a reflection of Moxy’s contemporary aesthetic—compact yet thoughtfully designed. The sleek, minimalist furnishings were complemented by tech-savvy amenities like USB charging ports, a flat-screen TV, and fast Wi-Fi. The room had a trendy, industrial vibe, with smart storage solutions that made the space feel comfortable. It was tight, but cozy despite its modest size. The bed, however, was a standout: incredibly plush and perfect for sinking into after a long day of exploring Athens.
One of the highlights of our stay was the Moxy’s communal spaces. The hotel’s lounge area doubled as a café by day and a bar by night, where we enjoyed both morning coffee and breakfast. The vibrant atmosphere was also a bit chaotic, with visitors bustling for breakfast. The communal setting made finding a spot to relax with breakfast a bit cumbersome. The rooftop terrace also provided fantastic views of the city, offering a perfect spot to reflect on our journey while soaking in Athens’ skyline.
Moxy’s location couldn’t have been more convenient. We found ourselves within walking distance of some of Athens’ most iconic landmarks, including the Acropolis, Plaka, and Syntagma Square. This allowed us to maximize our last couple of days in Athens, strolling through the historic streets and immersing ourselves in the city’s unique blend of ancient and modern culture.
Our stay at Moxy Hotel was an interesting way to end our time in Greece. The hotel’s chic, fun, and welcoming atmosphere made it a memorable experience. I am not sure this type of hotel is my cup of tea, but it was upbeat and interesting. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or visiting with friends, Moxy Hotel offers a stylish and comfortable base for exploring this captivating city. I think I will likely stick to more traditional Marriott properties in the future.
During our time in Athens, we had the opportunity to visit Mars Hill. This elevated site is rich in history and cultural significance. Located just below the Acropolis, Mars Hill (Areopagus) offers not only stunning views but also a deep connection to ancient Greek and Christian history. As we climbed the rocky steps to the top, we could feel the weight of centuries of human presence.
Mars Hill is famous as the place where the Apostle Paul delivered his powerful sermon to the Athenians. Recorded in the Book of Acts, Paul preached about the “unknown god” and the message of Christianity. Standing where this historical moment took place was both awe-inspiring and humbling. The atmosphere was serene, and it felt as if the ancient stones themselves were whispering the stories of the past. My wife was particularly taken with Mars Hill, so we returned for a second visit upon our return from Crete.
From the top of Mars Hill, we were treated to sweeping views of Athens. The view included the magnificent Parthenon on one side and the bustling modern city on the other. The juxtaposition of ancient ruins against the vibrant city below highlighted Athens’ blend of history and progress. We spent time just taking it all in, reflecting on the significance of this hill to both ancient Greek justice and the early spread of Christianity.
As we walked around, we couldn’t help but think of the philosophers and citizens who once debated important issues here. Mars Hill served as a meeting place for the Athenian council in ancient times, and being in that very spot brought history to life. The site is free to explore, and there’s a plaque commemorating Paul’s sermon in multiple languages, making the experience even more meaningful for visitors from around the world.
Visiting Mars Hill was not just about seeing a historical landmark; it was about connecting with the layers of history that shaped Athens and the world. It’s a must-see for anyone visiting Athens, offering a moment of reflection and a breathtaking view of the city. It was incredible to take time walking down the hillside from the entrance at the top, and seeing the remnants of foundations from gone-by eras. Highly recommended.
During our trip, we visited the Monastery of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, a peaceful and historic site. Located in the heart of Heraklion, this monastery provided a quiet escape from the bustling city. The blend of Venetian and Byzantine architecture immediately captivated us as we approached the entrance.
The historic monastery sits atop ruins that include intentional destruction as well as an earthquake. Situated within a divided (and somewhat busy) road, the church grounds are largely in various states of excavation. The remnants of a past courtyard and other structures are visible in various levels of the excavation. The rich history peers out through the rubble of time.
Built during the 13th century, the Monastery of Saint Peter and Saint Paul has endured centuries of change, including periods of Ottoman and Venetian rule. The monastery has undergone various restorations, preserving its original charm while maintaining its sacred essence.
We admired the elegant stone arches, detailed carvings, and peaceful interior spaces. It was clear that the monastery once played a key role in Crete’s religious life. The guide shared the monastery’s history, explaining its transformation into an important center for Christian worship on the island.
The peaceful atmosphere, combined with the deep history embedded in every stone, made our visit to the Monastery of Saint Peter and Saint Paul unforgettable. For anyone visiting Heraklion, this hidden gem offers a perfect balance of spirituality, history, and architectural beauty. It’s a place to reflect and connect with Crete’s rich religious heritage.
During our time in Crete, we dedicated a full day to exploring the charming coastal town of Rethymno. Nestled between Chania and Heraklion, this town is a captivating blend of history, culture, and modern life. As we soon discovered, Rethymno’s rich Venetian and Ottoman heritage makes it one of Crete’s most fascinating destinations.
Wandering Through the Old Town of Rethymno
Our exploration began in Rethymno’s Old Town, a beautiful maze of narrow, cobblestone streets lined with colorful buildings. Venetian-style architecture dominated the scene, with elegant arches, ornate windows, and small courtyards. Yet, there were clear traces of Ottoman influence as well, creating a unique blend that reflected the town’s layered history. Every corner seemed to hold a surprise, whether it was a hidden café, an inviting boutique, or a centuries-old church.
The Venetian Loggia caught our eye, standing as a reminder of Rethymno’s 16th-century past. This elegant building once served as a meeting place for Venetian nobles. Nearby, the Rimondi Fountain, adorned with lion heads, was another historical treasure that added to the Old Town’s charm. We enjoyed getting lost in the winding streets, where each turn offered a new glimpse into her storied past.
Discovering the Rethymno Fortezza
After exploring the Old Town, we made our way to the Fortezza, Rethymno’s massive Venetian fortress perched on a hill. The walk up to the fortress was scenic, with views of the sea becoming more spectacular as we climbed. Built in the late 16th century to defend the town from pirates and invaders, the Fortezza remains an impressive reminder of Rethymno’s strategic importance in the Mediterranean.
Once inside, we wandered through the expansive ruins, which include ancient bastions, storage rooms, and a small church. The panoramic views from the top of the fortress were breathtaking. We could see the entire coastline, stretching from Rethymno’s harbor to the rugged mountains inland. The cool sea breeze and sweeping views made this one of the most memorable moments of our visit.
A Taste of Rethymno’s Seaside Life
After descending from the fortress, we headed down to Rethymno’s vibrant harbor. The atmosphere here was completely different—lively and bustling, with fishing boats bobbing in the water and a row of seaside tavernas welcoming visitors. We settled at one of these waterfront restaurants, eager to sample local dishes while enjoying the stunning views.
The seafood was fresh and flavorful, with grilled fish, calamari, and shrimp on the menu. I opted for chicken. The combination of delicious food and the peaceful breeze made for a perfect dining experience.
Cultural Gems and Local Shopping
Rethymno’s culture extends beyond its historical landmarks. We also took time to explore some of the town’s local shops and artisan workshops. From handmade jewelry to traditional Cretan textiles, the variety of locally crafted goods was impressive. We picked up a few souvenirs, each one a reminder of her artistic spirit.
Our visit also included an amazing baklava bakery. We were given a demonstration of the process, where massive sheets of baklava were prepared. It was an incredible experience to watch the master bakers work the massive sheets of dough. Of course, we had to purchase some for the road. Delicious and amazing.
Reflecting on Our Rethymno Experience
Our visit was a perfect blend of history, culture, and relaxation. The town’s mix of Venetian elegance, Ottoman influences, and vibrant seaside life created an experience that felt both timeless and contemporary. Rethymno’s ability to preserve its historical roots while embracing modern culture made it one of our favorite stops in Crete.
For anyone visiting the island, Rethymno is a must-see destination. Its rich heritage, stunning views, and welcoming atmosphere offer a unique and memorable experience that truly captures the essence of Crete.
During our time in Crete, we visited the Monastery of Arkadi, a site steeped in history and cultural significance. Nestled in the hills near Rethymno, the monastery is not only a spiritual center but also a symbol of resistance and resilience in Crete’s long struggle for independence.
As we approached the monastery, the tranquil surroundings and the beauty of the stone buildings immediately drew us in. The central church, built in the 16th century, stood proudly in the courtyard. The façade reflected both Venetian and Byzantine influences. The air felt heavy with the weight of history, and we were eager to learn more about this storied place.
Inside the monastery, we discovered the tragic yet heroic events that took place here during the Cretan revolt against Ottoman rule in 1866. Our guide recounted how hundreds of Cretan rebels and civilians sought refuge within the monastery’s walls. Rather than surrendering to the Ottomans, they chose to detonate barrels of gunpowder, sacrificing their lives to resist capture. This act of defiance turned the Monastery of Arkadi into a symbol of freedom, forever etched into the island’s identity.
Wandering through the peaceful grounds, we reflected on the powerful contrast between the serene present-day atmosphere and the turbulent past. The small museum on site displayed artifacts and relics from the monastery’s history. It deepened our understanding of the Cretan people’s struggle for independence.
Visiting the Monastery of Arkadi was a moving experience that connected us with Crete’s rich history and indomitable spirit. It’s a place where the past speaks loudly, reminding visitors of the sacrifices made for freedom and the enduring strength of the human spirit. For anyone visiting Crete, the Monastery of Arkadi is a must-see, offering both historical insight and a sense of profound reverence.
During our Crete trip, we had a standout experience at Keramion Pottery. This renowned workshop beautifully showcases the island’s rich ceramic tradition. Located in the picturesque village of Rethymno, Keramion Pottery offered an engaging and immersive look into Cretan pottery.
Charming Setting and Warm Welcome
Upon arriving at Keramion Pottery, we were immediately struck by the workshop’s charming setting. Surrounded by Crete’s scenic beauty, the studio exuded a serene and creative atmosphere. The vibrant colors and intricate designs of the pottery set a welcoming tone for our visit.
Learning the Art of Keramion Pottery
Our tour began with an insightful introduction to the pottery-making process. We learned about the techniques used to create these beautiful pieces, from preparing the clay to firing and glazing. Artisans demonstrated their skillful craftsmanship, showing how traditional methods produce intricate patterns. We were particularly impressed by the precision and care in each step, and it was intriguing to learn that the clay is locally sourced and processed.
Exploring a Diverse Collection
A highlight of our visit was exploring the diverse ceramics on display. We saw everything from decorative vases and bowls to unique ceramic balloons, all reflecting the distinctive Cretan style. The designs often featured traditional motifs inspired by nature, mythology, and ancient Greek art, adding historical charm to each piece. We were captivated by the ceramics’ beauty and quality, seeing how ancient techniques are preserved in modern times.
Bringing Home a Piece of Crete
Our visit also offered the chance to purchase pottery. We browsed through unique items and chose several beautiful pieces as souvenirs. Each item had a story and connection to its artisan, making them even more special..
Keramion Pottery provided an exceptional experience, blending artistry, tradition, and craftsmanship. We gained a deeper appreciation for Cretan ceramics and the cultural significance behind the art form. For anyone visiting Crete and interested in local crafts, a trip to Keramion Pottery is a must. It’s a wonderful way to connect with the island’s artistic heritage and take home a piece of its enduring beauty.