Author: John

I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.

Sultanhan Caravanserai: A Journey on the Ancient Silk Road

On our journey through Turkey, we found ourselves stepping back in time at the Sultanhan Caravanserai. This ancient roadside inn is an impressive example of Seljuk architecture. Located in the small town of Sultanhanı, this caravanserai is one of the largest and best-preserved in the country, offering a fascinating glimpse into the lives of travelers and traders from centuries past. These stopping points were roadside inns for travelers in bygone eras.

Entrance to Sultanhan Caravanserai

Arrival at Sultanhan Caravanserai

As we approached the caravanserai, the massive stone structure loomed before us. Its formidable walls and intricate stonework immediately commanded our attention. The grand entrance, adorned with ornate carvings and an imposing wooden door, hinted at the rich history contained within.

Sultanhan Caravanserai central courtyard.

History of the Sultanhan Caravanserai

The Sultanhan Caravanserai was built in 1229 by Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I during the Seljuk period. These caravanserais, or “han,” were constructed along trade routes to provide shelter, food, and safety for merchants and travelers. Sultanhan, strategically located on the ancient Silk Road, was a crucial stopover for caravans carrying goods between Asia and Europe. The Seljuks, known for their architectural prowess, designed these structures to be both functional and grand, reflecting the importance of trade in their empire.

Large doors at the fortified entrance to the Caravanserai (looking towards the exit).

The Central Courtyard

Walking through the entrance, we were immediately transported to a bygone era. We entered the central courtyard and marveled at the high stone walls and arched porticos. The layout was meticulously planned to accommodate various needs: stables for animals, storage rooms for goods, and lodging for travelers. The architecture, with its detailed stone carvings and robust construction, showcased the Seljuk’s blend of functionality and artistry.

The caravanserai’s most striking feature is the impressive prayer room, or mescit, situated on a raised platform in the center of the courtyard. This elevated position symbolized the importance of faith in daily life, even during long and arduous journeys. The mescit, with its ornate stone carvings and tranquil atmosphere, provided a place of solace and reflection for weary travelers.

The Winter Hall

Winter Hall

Exploring further, we ventured into the covered section of the caravanserai, known as the winter hall. This large, vaulted space was designed to offer protection from the harsh weather, with thick stone walls insulating against the cold. The dimly lit hall, with its high ceilings and narrow windows, created an almost mystical ambiance, allowing us to imagine the bustling activity that once filled this space.

A closer look at the dome in the Winter Hall

Storage Rooms and More

As we wandered through the various rooms and corridors, we couldn’t help but marvel at the ingenuity and foresight of the Seljuk architects. The caravanserai was a self-sufficient hub, equipped with everything a traveler might need, from kitchens and baths to a small mosque. This blend of practicality and luxury made it a sanctuary for traders navigating the treacherous Silk Road.

Smaller storage rooms inside the Caravanserai

Reflections on Our Visit to Sultanhan Caravanserai

Reflecting on our visit, we were struck by the enduring legacy of the Sultanhan Caravanserai. It stands as a testament to the importance of trade in shaping civilizations and fostering cultural exchange. The caravanserai not only provided shelter but also facilitated connections between diverse peoples, contributing to the rich tapestry of human history.

For modern travelers, a visit to the Sultanhan Caravanserai is a journey into the past, offering a tangible link to the stories of merchants and adventurers who traversed the ancient Silk Road. It’s a place where history comes alive, allowing us to appreciate the ingenuity and resilience of those who came before us.

Display of carpets inside the Winter Hall

If you find yourself exploring the heart of Turkey, a stop at the Sultanhan Caravanserai is a must. It’s a captivating blend of history, architecture, and culture that will leave you with a deeper appreciation for the enduring spirit of travel and exploration. While our visit may have had a different purpose than the traders of years gone by, I felt a common thread. Maybe just as a traveler passing through a distant land, but I had an appreciation for this ancient roadside inn.

Read more about our Adventures in Turkey:

Mevlana Museum: A Visual History of Rumi’s Sufi Mysticism

On our journey through Turkey, we had the privilege of visiting the Mevlana Müzesi (Mevlana Museum) in Konya. This museum is not just a historical site but a spiritual beacon that draws visitors from around the world to explore the life and teachings of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, the 13th-century Persian poet, Islamic scholar, and Sufi mystic.

Exterior of Mevlana Museum

Arrival at the Mevlana Museum

As we approached the Mevlana Museum, the iconic green dome of the mausoleum stood out against the Konya skyline. The museum complex, which includes Rumi’s tomb, is surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, providing a serene atmosphere that invites reflection. The entrance to the museum was bustling with visitors donning disposable blue foot coverings.

The Spiritual Ambiance

Interior of the museum from entrance

Upon entering the museum, we were enveloped by a sense of tranquility. The soft murmurs of visitors, the scent of incense, and the sight of devout followers praying created a spiritual ambiance that was both calming and uplifting. The museum is housed in a former dervish lodge, where Rumi lived, taught, and wrote many of his famous works.

Exploring the Mevlana Museum Exhibits

The museum’s exhibits are a treasure trove of artifacts, manuscripts, and personal items belonging to Rumi and his followers. One of the first exhibits we encountered was a collection of Rumi’s original manuscripts. Seeing the delicate calligraphy and ancient paper brought a tangible connection to the past, highlighting Rumi’s enduring influence on literature and spirituality.

9th Century calligraphy taken from 19th Chapter of Koran (Jesus' Virgin Birth).

We also explored displays of musical instruments used in Sufi ceremonies, intricately designed prayer rugs, and robes worn by dervishes. Each artifact told a story of devotion and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. Particularly fascinating were the beautifully illuminated Qurans and the detailed explanations of Sufi rituals and practices.

Rumi’s Tomb

The heart of the Mevlana Museum is undoubtedly Rumi’s tomb. The tomb, adorned with intricate tile work and Arabic calligraphy, is a masterpiece of Islamic art. As we stood before it, we could feel the reverence that permeates the room. Pilgrims from all over the world come here to pay their respects, and the atmosphere is one of profound respect and contemplation.

Rumi's Tomb at Mevlana Museum

We spent some time in quiet reflection, absorbing the significance of this place. The tomb is not just a resting place for Rumi but a symbol of his spiritual journey and his teachings of love, tolerance, and the unity of all beings.

The Semahane

Another highlight of our visit was the Semahane, the hall where the Whirling Dervishes perform their mesmerizing Sema ceremonies. This ritual dance, characterized by the dervishes’ spinning motion, symbolizes the soul’s journey towards God. While we didn’t witness a live performance, the exhibits and multimedia displays provided a deep understanding of this spiritual practice.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to the Mevlana Museum was a deeply moving experience. It offered not just a glimpse into the life of one of history’s greatest mystics but also a profound sense of spiritual connection. Rumi’s message of love and unity transcends time and cultural boundaries, and standing in the place where he lived and taught was incredibly inspiring.

Exterior of Mevlana Museum

For anyone traveling through Turkey, a visit to the Mevlana Museum is a must. It’s not just a historical site but a journey into the heart of Sufi spirituality. Whether you’re a follower of Rumi’s teachings, a lover of poetry, or simply a curious traveler, the Mevlana Museum offers an enriching experience that will leave you with a deeper appreciation of the spiritual heritage of Turkey.

As we left the museum, the words of Rumi echoed in our minds: “Come, come, whoever you are. Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving. It doesn’t matter. Ours is not a caravan of despair. Come, even if you have broken your vows a thousand times. Come, yet again, come, come.” These words encapsulate the inclusive and loving spirit of Rumi and left us with a sense of inspiration.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel: A Dated But Comfortable Stay

After a chilly day of exploring the historical wonders of Hierapolis and the stunning travertine terraces of Pamukkale, we were ready for some relaxation. Our destination for the night was the Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel, a well-regarded establishment known for its thermal pools and spa services. Here’s a glimpse into our experience.

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

A Warm Welcome to Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

Upon arriving at Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel, we were greeted with a warm welcome by the friendly staff. The check-in process was smooth and efficient, allowing us to quickly settle into our room. The lobby, adorned with modern decor and comfortable seating areas, set a positive tone for our stay.

Comfortable Accommodations

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel room taken from hotel website.

Getting to our room involved a maze of hallways and an elevator. It seemed far from the lobby, dining and spa, but also on a quiet hall. Our room was clean, and well-appointed with all the necessary amenities for a comfortable stay. The bed was cozy, and the room featured a rather mundane view of the parking lot. While the decor was a bit dated, the overall comfort and cleanliness made up for it. Most importantly, the bed was comfortable to offer a good night’s sleep.

Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel Dining Experience

Dessert bar from hotel website.

One of the highlights of our stay was the dining experience. The hotel’s massive restaurant offered a diverse buffet with a wide range of Turkish and international dishes. The size of the restaurant meant that it was crowded and noisy. But the food was good. Breakfast featured a variety of fresh fruits, pastries, and hot items, providing a great start to our day. Dinner was equally impressive, with a selection of well-prepared dishes that catered to different tastes. The attentive staff ensured that our dining experience was pleasant and enjoyable.

Local musician performing outside hotel restaurant.

In addition to the quality of the food, I would also note that the hotel had live music outside the restaurant. It was interesting to hear a local musician providing some cultural enrichment prior to our meal.

Thermal Pools and Spa

The Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel features thermal pools and spa facilities. The hotel boasts several thermal pools, both indoor and outdoor, filled with mineral-rich waters known for their therapeutic properties. We went outside to look at the pool area and also visited the indoor pool, but we did not swim. It was far too cold and rainy to swim outside. The indoor pool required renting a head covering, which was relatively inexpensive. But we opted to forego swimming in favor of a hot cup of coffee in the lobby.

indoor pool photo taken from hotel website.

The spa offered a range of treatments, including massages, facials, and traditional Turkish baths. While we skipped the pools and spa, other travelers in our group did both. I heard a good report regarding the massages.

Other Amenities

Tennis courts from Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel website

In addition to the thermal pools and spa, the hotel featured a variety of other amenities, including a fitness center, tennis courts, and a well-maintained garden area. While the weather was not conducive to explore all of these facilities, it was nice to know they were available.

Final Reflections on Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel

Our stay at Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel was above average, offering a comfortable and relaxing retreat after our adventures in Hierapolis and Pamukkale. While the hotel’s decor could use a modern update, the overall experience was positive, thanks to the friendly staff, good food, and excellent wellness facilities.

Lobby taken from from hotel website.

For travelers visiting the Pamukkale area, Colossae Thermal & Spa Hotel offers a good balance of comfort, relaxation, and convenience. It’s a reasonable choice for those looking to explore the historical sites during the day and enjoy a bit of pampering in the evenings. Two of the hotels ranked higher on Trip Advisor appeared to have comparable prices, so I might also opt for one of those for any future stay. Overall, it was a comfortable overnight reprieve on our journey through the heart of Turkey.

More Turkey adventures:

Hiking to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church in Hierapolis

After an exhilarating journey through the ancient wonders of Hierapolis, our next destination held a particularly profound significance: the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip. This site, nestled in the rugged terrain of Hierapolis, promised an enriching blend of history, spirituality, and adventure.

Finding Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis

Sign pointing toward Martyrium of Saint Philip

Our adventure began with a sense of mystery. Having heard varying reports about the site’s accessibility, we were determined to uncover its secrets for ourselves. Despite a local guide’s discouragement, we noticed a sign pointing toward the wilderness and decided to venture out on our own. The path was rugged and less traveled, adding to the anticipation of what lay ahead.

Road towards Martyrium of Saint Philip.

We approached the location from what appeared to be an ancient road. However, what remained was an often rugged climb. Overturned stones pointed toward an approach that was once paved for a great distance. However, as we neared the location of the church and tomb, many of the pavers were intact. There were also a steep set of stairs that were still navigable.

Remnants of a former road
Intact stairs leading to the tomb of Philip

Discovering the Tomb of Philip

Structure believed to be the tomb of Saint Philip

After our arduous trek up the steep terrain, we found the Tomb of Philip, discovered around 2011. The tomb, though likely emptied of its original contents centuries ago, was a powerful reminder of the apostle’s enduring legacy. According to historical accounts and sixth-century artifacts like the “bread stamp,” the proximity of the tomb to the church lends credibility to the site’s significance. Historians have dated this location to the first century AD, adding to its provenance.

Remnants of a church that once stood at the tomb

The tomb’s discovery has added a new layer of historical importance to the area, drawing scholars and pilgrims alike. Standing before the tomb, we felt a profound connection to the early Christian era and the spread of Christianity through such remote regions. The tomb itself appears to be part of another ancient church, with the apse located toward the pillars in this photo.

The Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

The moment we reached the ruins of the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church, we were struck by its serene isolation and historical significance. This octagonal church, built around the 4th or 5th century, stands as a testament to early Christian architecture and devotion. The church is believed to have been constructed to honor Saint Philip, one of the Twelve Apostles, who was martyred here. Legend says that he was martyred in 80 AD, being crucified upside down.

Remnants of Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

Walking through the remains of the church, we marveled at the structural ingenuity and the sense of reverence that pervaded the site. The octagonal shape of the church, though now mostly in ruins, still conveyed a sense of symmetry and sacred geometry. It was awe-inspiring to think about the early Christians who once worshiped in this very place.

Panoramic photo of the interior octagon area of the church.

The Serenity of Martyrium of Saint Philip Church

View of the distant hot springs from the Martyrium

One of the most remarkable aspects of our visit was the solitude. Unlike more frequented tourist spots, the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip were almost devoid of visitors. This gave us the rare opportunity to explore the ruins in peace, absorbing the history and spirituality of the place without distractions.

Reflections on Our Visit

Pilgrim's Fountain where spring water once offered a place for visitors to wash before entering the church.

Our visit to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip was a deeply moving experience. It offered us not just a glimpse into the architectural and religious history of early Christianity, but also a moment of personal reflection and connection to the past. The journey to the site, with its mix of rugged adventure and serene discovery, made the experience even more memorable.

Final Thoughts

For anyone interested in Biblical history, the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip are must-see destinations at Hierapolis. They provide a unique insight into the early Christian history and the enduring legacy of Saint Philip. This hidden gem, away from the more crowded sites, offers a tranquil and spiritually enriching experience that is well worth the effort. This trek requires good shoes and a bit of effort. Not recommended for anyone who might have difficulty climbing steep or rugged terrain.

Steps leading down from tomb of Saint Philip to a bridge crossing a ravine.

Our exploration of these sacred ruins added a profound dimension to our trip, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of history that Hierapolis has to offer. If you ever find yourself in this ancient city, make sure to take the path less traveled to the Martyrium of Saint Philip Church and the Tomb of Philip – it’s a journey you won’t forget.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

Ancient Hierapolis: A Scenic, Biblical and Historic City

After an amazing visit to the Aegean coast of Turkey, we headed inland toward Hierapolis. It was cold with a light drizzling rain on the day we visited. But the rain and cold did nothing to dampen our excitement. This ancient, Biblical location is as scenic as it is historic.

Trevartines at Hierapolis.

Hierapolis is steeped in history and renowned for its unique combination of natural beauty and historical significance. Nestled near the modern town of Pamukkale, Hierapolis offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient civilizations. The site is a combination of well-preserved ruins and stunning travertine terraces. This extraordinary place is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A Brief History of Hierapolis

Hierapolis, founded in the 2nd century BC by the Attalid kings of Pergamon, was originally a thermal spa and a major center for healing. The city’s name, derived from the Greek word “Hiera” meaning “holy,” reflects its long-standing association with sacred rituals and healing practices. The thermal springs, rich in minerals, have been used for therapeutic purposes since ancient times, attracting people from all over the region.

Map of ancient Hierapolis

The city flourished under Roman rule, becoming an important cultural and religious center. It was known for its grand temples, theaters, and public baths. Hierapolis also became a significant early Christian site, with the Apostle Philip said to have been martyred here. The city continued to prosper until it was devastated by a series of earthquakes, with the final one in the 14th century leading to its abandonment.

Arrival at Hierapolis and the Thermal Pools of Pamukkale

Our journey to Hierapolis began with a breathtaking view of the iconic white travertine terraces of Pamukkale, also known as the “Cotton Castle.” These natural wonders, formed by calcium-rich thermal waters cascading down the hillside, create a stunning landscape of terraces and pools. The sight of the terraces, gleaming in the sunlight, was truly awe-inspiring.

Darker pools at Hierapolis

As we walked along the travertines, we noticed that the water fed one section of the terraces, while another section appeared darker. Our guide explained that the springs are directed to one section due to the amount of water they produce. Because fresh spring water is not filling the other pools, they turn dark over time. I can’t vouch for the accuracy, but I have included a photo of the darker pools.

Visitors dipping their feet into the pools,

Because it was a chilly day, we opted to take photos, while other visitors removed their shoes to enter the pools for photos. The therapeutic properties of the water, rich in minerals, have been cherished for centuries. However, this is more of an iconic photo than a healing spa today. It was amazing to see, but you have to get just the right angle to capture the magic of the white travertines.

Exploring the Ruins of Hierapolis

Entering the ancient city of Hierapolis, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of its ruins. The site is vast, with a variety of structures that tell the story of its illustrious past. We explored the ruins on our own, allowing us to choose the sites we wanted to explore.

HIerapolis Theater

Distant view of Hierapolis Theater.

On of the most prominent features of the site is the Hierapolis Theater. It is one of the best-preserved ancient theaters in Turkey. Built during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, the theater could accommodate up to 15,000 spectators. We began to venture up the steep hill to the theater, but opted to take our photos from a distance, because we wanted to see if we could find an ancient church nearby.

Temple of apollo

Temple of Apollo

Another ruins we visited was the Temple of Apollo, which was central to the city’s religious life. This temple, dedicated to the god of healing and prophecy, was built on a site believed to be an ancient oracle. The remains of the temple, including its columns and altar, still convey a sense of the sacred and the mysterious.

Necropolis of Hierapolis

Remnants of sarcophagi at Necropolis of Hierapolis

The Necropolis of Hierapolis was another memorable aspect of our visit. This extensive cemetery, one of the largest in Turkey, features a wide range of tombs and sarcophagi, reflecting the diverse cultural and religious influences that shaped the city.

Rather than walking through the Necropolis we opted to drive. We had walked quite a bit and it was a chilly day. The rain had also become a bit more steady by the time we were ready to leave. The necropolis led us toward the exit. Near the exit, we got out of our van to take some photos. We were fascinated by the variety of burial styles and the inscriptions that provide insights into the lives of the people who lived here.

Plutonium

We also explored the Plutonium, a religious site dedicated to Pluto, the god of the underworld. This cave was believed to be an entrance to the underworld, and its lethal vapors were used by priests for rituals. The Plutonium is a testament to the deep spiritual and mystical significance of Hierapolis.

Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church

Sign pointing into the wilderness indicating the location of the Church of Saint Philip.

The most memorable site we visited, was the Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church. We almost missed this amazing ruins. It is in the wilderness up a rugged climb from the main section of Hierapolis. I actually asked a local guide about this location, but he told me there was nothing to see and not to bother. I don’t know why this guide lied to me, but my wife and I saw a sign pointing toward the wilderness and ventured out on our own.

Saint Philip's Tomb at Hierapolis

What we found was not “nothing.” In fact, the ruins of the ancient church are still largely visible. The large octagonal church is believed to have been built around the fourth or fifth century. Around 2011, the tomb of Philip was also discovered nearby. The two structures are evident on a sixth-century “bread stamp” lending some provenance to these historic structures. While the remains of Philip were likely removed to Rome centuries ago, it was amazing to walk through these ancient ruins which were largely intact. And we had the ruins to ourselves to explore.

Panoramic view of Church of Saint Philip. Octagon pillars indicate the central area was very large.

The Antique Pool: A Dip in History

Antique Pool

One of the unique experiences Hierapolis offers is a swim in the Antique Pool, also known as Cleopatra’s Pool. This thermal pool, fed by the same mineral-rich waters that flow through Pamukkale, is dotted with ancient marble columns and stones, believed to have fallen during an earthquake. The warm, clear waters are not only relaxing but also rich in minerals. We opted not to swim as it was a cold, rainy day, but there were a few people enjoying the pool.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to Hierapolis was a journey through time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The blend of natural beauty and historical significance makes this site a unique destination for travelers. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of natural wonders, or someone seeking a relaxing retreat, Hierapolis has something to offer.

Southern Byzantine Gate

From the therapeutic waters of Pamukkale’s travertine terraces to the majestic ruins of an ancient city, Hierapolis is a place that captivates the imagination and enriches the soul. Our exploration of this remarkable site was a highlight of our trip to Turkey, leaving us with memories of a truly unforgettable experience.

Pools at Hierapolis

For those planning a visit to Turkey, a trip to Hierapolis and Pamukkale is a must. It’s not just a journey into the past, but an opportunity to experience the healing powers of nature and the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations. The pools are iconic.

More Adventures in Turkey:

Ephesus Museum: Rich History, Timeless Art

After exploring the ruins of Ephesus and a hearty home-cooked lunch, our journey through Turkey’s ancient wonders led us to the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk. This museum houses a remarkable collection of artifacts unearthed from the ancient city. Our visit offered an enriching extension to our exploration of Ephesus. Here’s a glimpse into our fascinating trip to the museum.

Arrival at the Ephesus Museum

Early example of Artemis statue

Located in the heart of Selçuk, the Ephesus Museum is easily accessible and a must-visit for history enthusiasts. As we arrived, the modern exterior of the museum contrasted sharply with the ancient treasures inside, heightening our anticipation.

The Hall of Artemis

Our first stop was the Hall of Artemis, dedicated to artifacts associated with the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The statues of Artemis, with her multiple breasts symbolizing fertility, were particularly striking. The detailed carvings and the sheer size of the statues gave us a sense of the temple’s former grandeur.

The Marble Hall

Exhibit at the Ephesus Museum

Next, we ventured into the Marble Hall, home to some of the most exquisite sculptures from Ephesus. Among the highlights were the statues of the Roman emperors, gods, and goddesses, each intricately crafted with remarkable detail. The statue of the Emperor Augustus, standing tall and imposing, left a lasting impression with its lifelike features and commanding presence.

The Hall of the Mother Goddess

This hall focused on the various forms of the Mother Goddess worshiped in Ephesus. The collection included statues and reliefs that illustrated the evolution of this deity from prehistoric times through the Hellenistic and Roman periods. The artifacts here underscored the long-standing spiritual significance of the region.

The Gladiator Room

One of the most exciting sections of the museum was the Gladiator Room. It showcased artifacts related to the gladiators who once fought in the grand theater of Ephesus. Helmets, weapons, and detailed tombstones of gladiators provided a glimpse into their harsh and often brutal lives. The intricacies of the carvings and the preserved nature of these items were fascinating.

The House of the Rich

We were particularly captivated by the exhibits from the Terrace Houses, also known as the Houses of the Rich. These artifacts, including intricate mosaics, frescoes, and household items, offered a peek into the luxurious lifestyles of Ephesus’s wealthy residents. The preservation of these items was astounding, making it easy to imagine daily life in ancient Ephesus.

The Ephesus Through the Ages Hall

Our journey continued through the Ephesus Through the Ages Hall, which showcased the city’s evolution from its earliest settlement through the Roman era and beyond. The timeline of artifacts, including pottery, coins, and tools, painted a vivid picture of the city’s rich history and cultural development. I was particularly interested in the coins, but realized I didn’t take any photos of them.

Reflecting on Our Visit to Ephesus Museum

Statue at the Ephesus Museum

Our visit to the Ephesus Museum was a deeply enriching experience. The museum’s collection brought the ancient city of Ephesus to life, offering insights into the lives of its inhabitants and the city’s historical significance. Each artifact told a story, adding depth and context to our earlier exploration of the ruins.

The Ephesus Museum is a treasure trove of history and culture. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in the ancient world. Whether you are a seasoned historian or a curious traveler, the museum offers a profound connection to the past, leaving you with a greater appreciation for the legacy of Ephesus.

Statue at Ephesus Museum

The Ephesus Museum was a nice complement to our visit to historic Ephesus. But nothing compares to the sheer scale and detail of walking the streets of Ephesus. The ruins were, simply put, the most remarkable we have ever visited. While many of the exhibits were taken from Ephesus, the museum was just a reflection of the magnificence of the ruins. With that in mind, it was nice to walk through the exhibits and learn more about the history of Ephesus through its different eras.

Read more about our adventures in Turkey:

A Home Cooked Feast at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our exploration of the ancient wonders in Selçuk, Turkey, took us on an unforgettable journey through history. After a morning spent marveling at the ruins of Ephesus, we found ourselves craving a taste of authentic Turkish cuisine. Our tour included lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant, a charming family-run establishment that promised a culinary adventure as enriching as our historical tour.

Amazing spread at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our Warm Welcome to Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Located in the heart of Selçuk, Bizim Ev Hanimeli immediately stood out with its inviting facade and cozy ambiance. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by the warm smiles of the staff and the comforting aroma of home-cooked food. The interior was adorned with traditional Turkish decor, creating a homely atmosphere that made us feel instantly at ease.

An Authentic Turkish Experience

The buffet was, simply, amazing. My plate was hardly big enough to pile on the selection of home-cooked traditional fare. The family vibe was apparent from the cooking to our interactions with the proprietor. I wanted to sample everything, but simply couldn’t try it all. There were dozens of options that included soups, beans, sauteed vegetables, meats, and more. I filled my plate to its capacity and settled in to eat.

My Mother's Kitchen written by owner Cansu Mercan Tucker

While we were eating, we met with Celil and Emel, our hosts. We had the opportunity to purchase a book of recipes, handed down from mother to daughter. The book, My Mother’s Kitchen, is written by Cansu Mercan Tucker who owns the restaurant. Celil took the photographs included in the book. This operation is truly a family affair. My wife and I purchased a copy of the book which Celil and Emel autographed for us.

Autographed book from the owners of Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

A Sweet Ending

No meal in Turkey would be complete without indulging in some traditional desserts. After speaking with Celil and Emel, I headed back to the buffet for something sweet, settling for a semolina dessert that was amazing. My wife tried the yogurt cake which was also very good.

A Taste of Turkish Hospitality

One of the most memorable aspects of our lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli was the genuine hospitality of the staff. They took the time to explain each dish and its significance in Turkish culture, making our dining experience both educational and enjoyable. The owner’s visit to our table to share stories was a bonus. It is great the restaurant is passionate about preserving traditional Turkish cuisine.

Reflections on Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant

Our lunch at Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant was more than just a meal; it was a cultural immersion that complemented our visit to the ancient city of Ephesus. The delicious food, warm hospitality, and charming atmosphere made it a highlight of our trip. Whether you’re a history buff exploring the ruins or simply a traveler seeking authentic Turkish flavors, Bizim Ev Hanimeli is a must-visit destination in Selçuk.

As we left the restaurant, our hearts and stomachs were full, and we felt a deeper appreciation for the culinary traditions of Turkey. If you ever find yourself in Selçuk, be sure to stop by Bizim Ev Hanimeli Restaurant for an unforgettable dining experience that will leave you craving more.

Read more about our Adventures in Turkey:

Walking in the Footsteps of the Apostle Paul – Ancient Ephesus

Our journey through Turkey’s ancient wonders led us to the magnificent ruins of Ephesus. This amazing site offers a breathtaking glimpse into the grandeur of the Roman Empire. Nestled near the modern town of Selçuk, Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our visit to this historic gem was nothing short of extraordinary.

World Heritage marker at Ephesus

Arrival at Ephesus

Baths of Varius at Ephesus.

As we arrived at the upper entrance to Ephesus, the sheer scale of the site was immediately apparent. The ancient city, once a bustling metropolis and a major port, now lay in ruins, yet its splendor was still palpable. We were greeted by the ruins of an ancient agora and the baths of Varius.

The Library of Celsus

Library of Celsus at Ephesus

One of our memorable stops was the Library of Celsus, one of the most photographed monuments in Ephesus. Built in 117 AD, this grand structure once housed thousands of scrolls and served as a monumental tomb for Celsus, a Roman senator. The facade, with its intricately carved columns and statues, was breathtaking. Standing before this ancient library, we felt a deep connection to the scholars and thinkers who once walked these halls.

Menorah etched into the marble steps of the Library of Celsus.

Inscribed in the steps of the library is a Menorah. This simple symbol points to the diverse and bustling culture of ancient Ephesus. As a major port for trading, Ephesus was a metropolis of varied cultures and religions.

The Great Theatre

Great Arena of Ephesus.

Near the end of our visit, we made our way to the Great Theater. This massive structure could seat up to 25,000 spectators. This ancient theater, built into the slope of Panayir Hill, was used for gladiatorial contests, theatrical performances, and public gatherings. The acoustics of the theater were so remarkable that even a whisper from the stage could be heard at the top rows.

Distant house purported to be where Paul stayed when he fled Ephesus.

This theater is mentioned in Acts 19, although this scripture does not actually say that Paul preached here. It is reasonable to believe that he may have. But on the day of the Silversmith’s riot, as recounted in scripture, Paul was urged not to enter the theater. Our guide in Turkey indicated to us a fortified house on a house distant (but visible) from Ephesus where Paul fled to. It is believed Paul remained at this house until a ship arrived to take him from Ephesus. I do not know the provenance of this story, but it is an interesting side note.

The Terrace Houses

Terrace Houses with intricate mosaic patios.

Another interesting highlight of our visit was exploring the Terrace Houses, also known as the “Houses of the Rich.” These well-preserved homes belonged to the wealthy elite of Ephesus and offered a fascinating glimpse into their luxurious lifestyle. The intricate mosaics, frescoes, and marble floors were incredibly well-preserved, showcasing the opulence of ancient Roman life. Walking through these houses, we marveled at the advanced engineering and artistic skills of the time.

The Temple of Artemis

While the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, now lies mostly in ruins, we visited the site where this once magnificent temple stood. Although only a single column remains, it was interesting to imagine the grandeur of the temple in its prime. Dedicated to the goddess Artemis, this temple was a center of religious worship and a symbol of the city’s wealth and power.

The Streets of Ephesus

Paved Walkway between the Library and Arena

Strolling through the ancient streets of Ephesus, we encountered various other significant structures, including the Agora, the Odeon, and the Baths of Scholastica. Each corner of the city held its own historical significance and architectural marvels. The marble-paved streets, lined with remnants of shops and public buildings, provided a vivid picture of daily life in this once-thriving city.

Public bathroom at Ephesus.

Reflecting on Our Visit to Ephesus

Our visit to the ruins of Ephesus was a journey back in time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The grandeur of the monuments, the sophistication of the city planning, and the artistry of the ancient craftsmen left us in awe. Ephesus is not just a collection of ruins; it is a living testament to the ingenuity, culture, and spirit of a civilization that has shaped our history.

View of Great Arena from Harbor Street which once led to the bay.

As we left Ephesus, the echoes of its glorious past stayed with us, a reminder of the enduring legacy of human achievement. For anyone with a passion for history, archaeology, or simply the beauty of ancient architecture, a visit to Ephesus is an absolute must. It is a place where the past comes alive, offering an unforgettable experience that enriches the soul and ignites the imagination.

Interested in Turkey? Check out these other reviews!


An Ancient Stone House – Did Jesus’ Mother Live Here?

Our travels through the historic landscape of Turkey led us to a place of profound spiritual significance and serene beauty: the Virgin Mary’s House in Ephesus. Some Christian sojourners believe this to be a sacred site. But is it the final resting place of the Virgin Mary? The ancient stone building is nestled on the tranquil slopes of Bulbul Mountain, near the ruins of Ephesus. Here’s a glimpse into our visit to this revered sanctuary.

Entrance to Virgin Mary's House

Arriving at the Virgin Mary’s House

As we approached the site, a sense of reverence and peace enveloped us. The Virgin Mary’s House, or Meryem Ana Evi, is a modest stone structure. The house is surrounded by lush greenery, offering a serene retreat. The journey up the winding road to the site added to the anticipation. We enjoyed breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside enhancing the experience.

Virgin Mary's House and Chapel

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the tranquil atmosphere of the sanctuary. It was a very cold morning with a light rain adding to the serenity. The house itself is small and unassuming, yet it holds immense historical and religious significance. According to some Christian tradition, the Apostle John brought Mary to Ephesus after the crucifixion of Jesus, and she spent her final years here. However, there is little in the written record to corroborate this. A German nun had visions of Mary’s house which ultimately led to the discovery of this site. Anne Catherine Emmerich’s vision described its location in remarkable detail.

Baptismal Pool adjacent to Virgin Mary's House.
Baptismal Pool

Historic Provenance of the Virgin Mary’s House

I find the provenance of the Virgin Mary’s House to be tenuous at best. According to the scriptures, Jesus gave his disciple John responsibility for his mother. Written history confirms that John did eventually relocate to Ephesus. However, did Mary live long enough to accompany John to Ephesus? Possibly. But she could just as easily have passed before John relocated.

Is this site likely the site where Jesus’ mother lived? On that point I am less certain. But what does seem certain is that the structure dates to the Apostolic Age and there is an ancient baptismal in the courtyard. At a minimum, these facts point to this place as an ancient Christian gathering place. As a history buff, this is enough to pique my interest. Whether Mary actually lived here or not is not as relevant to me.

Impressions of Virgin Mary’s House

The house had a striking simplicity and solemnity. The stone walls and small rooms evoke a sense of timelessness and humility. A small altar adorned with candles and flowers stands in the main room, where visitors can offer prayers and reflect on the spiritual heritage of the place. The gentle flicker of candlelight and the hushed whispers of fellow visitors created an atmosphere of deep reverence. We did not take photographs of the interior.

Front of Virgin Mary's House and Chapel. To the right you can see the small exit door from the chapel.

Adjacent to the Virgin Mary’s House is a chapel where mass is held, particularly drawing crowds on significant Marian feast days. We took a moment to sit in the quiet of the chapel, absorbing the peaceful ambiance and contemplating the history and faith that have made this site a pilgrimage destination for millions of Christians worldwide.

Other Things to See

Outside, the serene surroundings invite reflection and meditation. The site is beautifully maintained, with shaded pathways, blooming flowers, and benches where visitors can sit and enjoy the tranquility. We followed the path to the “Wishing Wall,” where pilgrims leave notes and prayers, tucking them into the crevices of the wall. This tradition, akin to the Western Wall in Jerusalem, adds a personal and touching element to the visit.

Springs at Virgin Mary's House

An interesting aspect of our visit was the sacred spring, believed to have healing properties. We joined other visitors in drinking from the spring. The water, like the morning, was chilly. I had to wonder how many pilgrims who have visited this holy site over the centuries, drank from this spring. I also thought of the correlation to the Living Water, more meaningful than a pilgrimage site. After drinking the cold water, we stopped for tea near the entrance to the grounds.

Final Thoughts on Our Visit

Our visit to the Virgin Mary’s House in Ephesus was a deeply moving experience. The combination of historical significance, spiritual reverence, and natural beauty makes it a unique and enriching destination. Whether you are a devout pilgrim, a history enthusiast, or a traveler seeking a place of peace and reflection, the Virgin Mary’s House offers a profound and unforgettable experience.

As we left the sanctuary, the peaceful aura of the Virgin Mary’s House stayed with us, a gentle reminder of the enduring power of faith and the serene beauty of this sacred site. If you find yourself exploring the ancient wonders of Ephesus, a visit to the Virgin Mary’s House is an absolute must. Even if it’s not the house of Jesus’ mother, it is an ancient site with an ancient Christian connection.

Read more about our trip to Turkey:

Korumar Hotel Kusadasi: Stunning Aegean Sea Views and Luxury

Our journey along Turkey’s stunning Aegean coastline brought us to the luxurious Korumar Hotel in Kusadasi. Renowned for its breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, this hotel promised a memorable overnight stay, and it certainly delivered.

Official Korumar Hotel photo exterior.

Upon arrival, we were immediately struck by the hotel’s picturesque setting. Perched on a cliff, the Korumar Hotel offers panoramic views of the Aegean Sea that are simply mesmerizing. The azure waters stretch endlessly, meeting the horizon in a tranquil embrace, providing the perfect backdrop for a relaxing getaway.

Amazing sunset over the Aegean from our hotel room at the Korumar hotel.

The check-in process was smooth and efficient, and the staff was welcoming and attentive. Our room was spacious, modern, and meticulously clean. The decor combined elegance with comfort, creating a cozy yet sophisticated atmosphere. The highlight, of course, was the private balcony overlooking the sea. We spent several moments just soaking in the view, watching the sun begin its descent, casting golden hues over the water.

View of Kusadasi and the Kusadasi Bay from Korumar Hotel.

After settling in, we decided to explore the hotel’s amenities. The Korumar boasts a range of facilities designed to enhance the guest experience. The outdoor infinity pool, seemingly blending into the sea beyond, was particularly inviting. However, it was a very cool evening, not conducive to an outdoor swim.

Official photo of Korumar Hotel buffet

As evening approached, we dined at the hotel’s main restaurant, which features a diverse menu of both Turkish and international cuisine. The dinner buffet was a feast for the senses, offering a variety of dishes prepared with fresh, local ingredients. We savored every bite while gazing out at the twinkling lights of Kusadasi town across the bay.

Korumar King room. Official photo, not the actual room I stayed in. But this is what it looked like.

The night was peaceful, and we slept soundly, lulled by the gentle sound of the waves. Waking up to the serene view of the Aegean was a delightful start to the day. We enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast before heading out to explore the ancient city of Ephesus. The fresh fruits, pastries, and traditional Turkish dishes provided the perfect fuel for the day ahead.

We spent two nights at Hotel Korumar, providing amazing book ends for our exploration of Ephesus. Before checking out, we took one last stroll around the hotel grounds. The beautifully landscaped gardens, dotted with vibrant flowers and well-maintained pathways, added to the hotel’s charm. The combination of natural beauty and luxurious comfort made our stay truly special.

Sun setting heavy over the Aegean.

Our two-night stay at the Korumar Hotel on the Aegean coast was a perfect blend of relaxation and indulgence. The stunning views, exceptional service, and top-notch amenities made it a memorable experience. Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, a family vacation, or a peaceful retreat, the Korumar Hotel in Kusadasi is an ideal destination.

Our two-night stay was part of a vacation package. We stayed in the cooler fall months, which may have been less expensive. The current summer rate is over $200, which makes sense for a resort atmosphere on the Aegean Sea.

Other Highlights of our Turkey Trip