Category: Morocco

Ait Benhaddou: A UNESCO World Heritage Treasure

Trekking from Ouarzazate to Marrakesh meant we spent the better part of a day on a bus. Our journey was broken up with a pleasant stop at Ait Benhaddou. This attraction is a kasbah that was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1987. This ancient fortress has been the backdrop for countless movies and, in recent years, the blockbuster HBO series Game of Thrones. The walk to the top of the ruins is well worth the view you get once you arrive at the granary located at the top.

View of Ait Benhaddou from across riverbed.

Ait Benhaddou Is A Living Kasbah

One of the most surprising aspects of Ait Benhaddou is that it is still occupied. While most kasbahs we saw were deserted, this one is home to several families. The kasbah sits atop a large hill across a river that once required tourists to cross by stepping on stones in the river. We crossed on a bridge that makes it much easier to access. There is a small coffee shop on the near side of the bridge that also has restrooms. As weary travelers, we certainly availed ourselves of the opportunity before trekking to the top of the kasbah.

Erosion barriers on the rocky slopes.

Historical Significance of Ait Banhaddou

Dating back to around the seventeenth century, Ait Benhaddou is built mostly of mud. When the majority of the residents deserted the kasbah, it began to decay. Several years ago, preservation projects were initiated to maintain this scenic community. Evidence of preservation can be seen in areas where erosion barriers are visible. Careful consideration was given to ensure these efforts blend into the scenery as much as possible.

The shallow riverbed seems adequate to keep a fertile strip of land watered.

A Shopper’s Paradise

As we ascended up to the kasbah, we discovered plenty of shops selling clothing, shoes, and art. The merchants were not overly aggressive, but they would follow you if you showed special interest in an item. One of my friends on the tour had a merchant follow her almost the entire way back down to make a sale, and she eventually closed the deal. Persistence pays off.

Art at one of the nearby shops.

Scenic Views and Photo Opportunities

The climb to the top of Ait Benhaddou offers excellent vantage points if you walk to either end of each tier you ascend. The town is built in layers, so many trails are on the same elevation, with stairways or passageways leading up to the next strata of shops and houses. There are plenty of opportunities for photos, which I took full advantage of. Needless to say, the views from the top were the best. With that in mind, I took plenty of photos from the top!

Granary located atop Ait Benhaddou
View of the nearby community viewed from the walkway leading up the walkways to Ait Benhaddou.

A Memorable Visit to Ait Benhaddou

Visiting Ait Benhaddou was a delightful break from our bus ride through the desert mountains. This amazing World Heritage site is not far off the beaten path if you are traveling between Ouarzazate and Marrakesh. The combination of historical significance, living culture, and stunning scenery makes it a must-see destination.

Irrigation for the arid plants.

I hope you enjoyed reading about Ait Benhaddou as much as I enjoyed revisiting this incredible site while sharing these descriptions and photos with you. I really enjoyed my visit to Kasbah Ait Benhaddou. It was a cool place to visit, offering a unique glimpse into Morocco’s rich history and vibrant present. It is much more than just a stop over to stretch your legs.

Looking out at the neighboring community from Ait Benhaddou.

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Chez Rafiq: Discovering a Gem in the High Atlas Mountains

If you’re traveling through the High Atlas Mountains on N9, a stop at Chez Rafiq is a must. This large restaurant and gift shop, with ample parking for buses, great scenery, and friendly staff. The restaurant perfectly caters to tourists without compromising on quality. While en route from Ouarzazate to Marrakesh, we stopped here for lunch. It was a delightful experience.

Exterior view of Chez Rafiq Restaurant and gift shop in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco.

Spacious and Welcoming

Chez Rafiq has a spacious dining area, offering plenty of room for large groups to dine without interference. At typical travelers, our first stop was the restrooms. We found the restrooms to be modern and impeccably clean—some of the nicest we encountered in Morocco. For anyone familiar with travel in developing countries, you’ll understand why this is a noteworthy detail. In the West, such amenities are often taken for granted.

Interior of Restaurant

Dining with a View

We dined in the newer section of the restaurant, featuring broad windows that let in ample sunlight. The rooms were large with high ceilings. Tasteful accents, including ornate carvings and brightly colored pillows, created a pleasant atmosphere. Our small table was adorned with simple floral patterned tablecloths and miniature tajine-shaped salt and cumin dishes.

Tajine shaped salt and pepper shakers.

Chez Rafiq Serves Delicious Moroccan Cuisine

The menu, like most tourist stops, had a limited selection. I opted for the chicken tajine with lemon and olives, while my wife chose the vegetable soup. Lunch began with traditional bread and olives. Our food arrived quickly, served hot, with the soup coming first. Entrees arrived shortly after the soup. In spite of the size of our group, the staff were efficient and attentive. They seemed eager to cater to everyone’s needs.

Stunning Scenery

Our view from the broad windows was exceptional, overlooking a large bluff across the highway and a narrow valley behind the restaurant. The terrain of the High Atlas Mountains is often uneven, with steep drops and cliff faces. Chez Rafiq is situated on a broad, level area, perfect for the bus we were traveling on. The area seemed prime for additional expansion.

Exterior of Chez Rafiq facing toward the mountains.

Exploring the Grounds of Chez Rafiq

After our meal, we had time to use the restrooms, enjoy the scenery behind the building, and visit the gift shop next door. The shop had the usual tourist items—geodes, trilobites, pottery, tajines, clothing, etc.—at slightly high prices, as expected. We spent more time enjoying the fresh air outside, appreciating the crisp mountain atmosphere. Looking back, I think I should have checked the gift shop for salt and pepper tajines. They would have made a nice reminder for our trip.

Interior or Chez Rafiq Restaurant.

A Worthwhile Stop at Chez Rafiq

Chez Rafiq is one of the nicer stops we visited. While geared toward tourists, it stands out for its efficiency, friendly staff, cleanliness, and excellent scenery. The recent construction didn’t detract from our experience, and the crisp mountain air provided us with a refreshing break from our bus journey. Importantly, the restrooms were in excellent shape, comparable to a western restaurant. Almost as important, there was no fee to use them. It is not uncommon to find restrooms that charge a small fee when traveling in other parts of the world.

If you find yourself traveling over the High Atlas Mountains, don’t be deterred by the touristy appearance of Chez Rafiq. The food is good, the prices are reasonable, and the service is excellent.

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Experiencing Comfort and Luxury: Le Meridien N’Fis in Marrakech

After crossing the desert, my wife and I arrived at one of our last hotels, the Le Meridien N’Fis in Marrakesh, Morocco. This hotel, part of the Starwood line now owned by Marriott, was among the nicest we stayed at in Morocco and had, by far, the best Wi-Fi in the hotel rooms. Conveniently located about one mile from the medina and across the street from a large mall, it offered both comfort and accessibility.

Entrance to Le Meridien N'Fis hotel

Welcoming Lobby and Friendly Service

The hotel opened into a large lobby area, featuring plenty of seating and a grand piano (which, unfortunately, I don’t recall anyone playing during our visit). Our keys were waiting for us upon arrival. I went up to the front desk to provide my Marriott Rewards number in hopes of gaining room stay credit and some points.

Although the clerk took my rewards number down, I never received the credits, likely because our rooms were booked by a travel agency. Despite this, the clerk was cordial and helpful. The spacious lobby also had a gift shop where guests could find a small variety of gifts and stamps. Sending a postcard home cost about two dollars, a rate consistent with other places we’ve traveled.

Hotel Lobby showing check in desk.
Another view from hotel lobby

Lush Gardens and Relaxing Walkways

The hotel is spread out on a large property with a central garden and pool between the lobby and guest rooms. The gardens were lush and well-maintained, providing a sampling of the area’s indigenous flora. Meticulously trimmed bushes, ornate flowers, small pools, and a fountain created a serene atmosphere. There always seemed to be a bit of a breeze walking between the guest rooms and the lobby, adding to the relaxing ambiance. It was a short but pleasant walk from the lobby to the guest rooms.

The Le Meridien N'Fis has a second building behind the main building, where my room was located.
The landscaping at the Le Meridien N'Fis was lush.

Comfortable and Cool Rooms

Our room had working air conditioning, which was a significant plus as the weather was beginning to turn hot during our visit. Several of the hotels had not yet switched over to air conditioning, so the cool air was welcome. The tile flooring also helped keep the room cool. While the Wi-Fi in the room was not exceptional, it was better than non-existent connections in other Moroccan hotel rooms. The room was clean, attractively decorated, and functional. The bed was comfortable, a bit softer than others we had slept in. Additionally, the room had a small balcony with an exceptional view of the gardens below and the distant medina.

Large king bed room at Le Meridien.
View of room facing the door.
View of the grounds from my room.

Delicious Breakfast Buffet

Le Meridien N’Fis had one of the best breakfast buffets of any hotel we stayed at in Morocco. Each morning, the hotel consistently put out a nice selection of fresh fruit, breads, soups, meats, and more. There was a juice bar with a couple of freshly squeezed juice selections each morning. The coffee came from Nescafe machines typical of all the hotels we visited. The service in the restaurant was efficient, making it a great way to start our day.

Excellent Value and Location

Le Meridien N’Fis is located at Avenue Mohammed VI, Marrakech, 40000, Morocco. The prices online currently range from 120 to 150 US dollars, a reasonable price for what you get. While not a five-star hotel, it is an upscale property with plenty of amenities. The rooms were large and clean, the staff friendly and accommodating, and the food was good. The Wi-Fi and air conditioning were icing on the cake. Overall, it was an excellent value and a comfortable, enjoyable stay.

Night time view of the Le Meridien N'Fis pool area.
Le Meridien N'Fis viewed from the mall across the street.

For anyone visiting Marrakech, I highly recommend staying at Le Meridien N’Fis for a blend of comfort, convenience, and excellent service.

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The Grandeur of Koutoubia Mosque: Marrakech’s Historic Heart

One of the focal points of Marrakesh is the Koutoubia Mosque. It is an architectural marvel that stands as the largest mosque in the city. Dominating the skyline, its iconic minaret, rising to 253 feet, serves as a reliable landmark visible from miles around. During my stay in Marrakesh, I could easily spot the minaret from my hotel room. Although located a mile away, it served as an excellent reference point for exploring the city.

Fountain in the plaza near the Koutoubia Mosque minaret.

Historical Significance of Koutoubia Mosque

The site of the Koutoubia Mosque has a fascinating history. It has been home to two mosques, both constructed in the 12th century. The first mosque built on this location was found to be misaligned with Mecca by five degrees. To rectify this, a second mosque was built alongside the original. However, this too ended up being misaligned by a slightly greater margin. Today, visitors can see the remnants of the original structure, marked by pillars in the plaza beside the minaret. This area also features a vast garden with walkways, lush vegetation, and a large fountain, providing a serene environment for reflection and relaxation.

Short pillars demonstrate the structure of an earlier Koutoubia Mosque

The Minaret: An Architectural Marvel

At night, the Koutoubia minaret is beautifully illuminated, enhancing its status as a focal point of the plaza and the nearby medina. The design of the minaret is ornate and intricately detailed, featuring laced brickwork around arched windows. The reddish hue of the brickwork adds a muted, elegant charm to the structure. Near the top, mosaic tile work and three gilded copper spheres of descending size at the spire further accentuate its beauty.

Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakesh at night.

Navigating the Plaza and Medina

While the area around the Koutoubia Mosque offers a peaceful respite, it’s essential to remain aware of your surroundings, especially when exploring the nearby medina. The merchants in Marrakech are notably more aggressive compared to those in other Moroccan cities. Making eye contact with the small vendors in the plaza can result in persistent sales pitches. The same goes for the medina market, where many merchants are eager to engage with potential customers. Despite this, the plaza remains a tranquil place to stroll, especially when the weather is pleasant.

Architectural Details to Admire

For those who appreciate architecture, the Koutoubia Mosque is a must-see. The minaret’s detailed brickwork, arched windows, and decorative elements showcase the skill and artistry of its builders. The mosque’s overall design reflects a blend of Islamic art and Moroccan cultural influences, making it a significant landmark not only in Marrakech but also in the broader context of Islamic architecture.

The minaret of Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakesh from the lush nearby plaza.

Visiting Koutoubia Mosque

If you’re planning a visit, take some time to sit in the plaza and admire the mosque’s architectural splendor. The area is particularly pleasant during the cooler months of spring, when the weather is ideal for leisurely walks. I was not able to explore the mosque itself, as the mosque itself is not open to non-Muslims. However, the surrounding gardens and plaza provide plenty of opportunities to appreciate its external beauty and historical significance.

The Koutoubia Mosque stands as a testament to the rich history and vibrant culture of Marrakesh. Whether you’re drawn by its architectural beauty, historical significance, or simply looking for a peaceful place to relax, the Koutoubia Mosque is a landmark that should not be missed on any visit to this enchanting city.

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Unforgettable Nights in Marrakesh: The Medina’s Vibrant Transformation

Introduction to Marrakesh’s Medina
Shops in the Marrakesh Medina

Marrakesh was one of the final cities my wife and I visited on our trip through Morocco. The Marrakesh medina was the last on our journey. Each medina we explored had its own unique charm and atmosphere. Near Erfoud, it felt like a rural farmer’s market. In Fez, the winding streets and alleys were a labyrinth. In Marrakesh, we were met with a circus-like atmosphere that was truly captivating. As an interesting side note, the Marrakesh Medina is also listed as a World Heritage Site.

Nighttime in Marrakech: A Festival of Sights, Smells, and Sounds
Food tents at night in Marrakesh medina

Our first visit to the medina was at night, heading in for dinner. The medina has a large square that seems deserted during the day but transforms into a festival of sights, smells, and sounds at night. One section of the square is set aside for dining. In the evening, this vacant area springs to life with wall-to-wall tents featuring a variety of food. We were amazed at the vast selection ranging from fresh seafood to traditional Moroccan favorites like tajine. The rest of the medina quickly filled up with snake charmers, merchants, and entertainers.

Dining in the Medina: A Culinary Adventure
Fresh food and hot meals at Marrakesh medina

On our first night, we didn’t venture into the alleyways as it was already late and we hadn’t eaten yet. We navigated the fair-like food tents before checking a few brick-and-mortar restaurants surrounding the square. Ultimately, we decided to immerse ourselves in the square’s bustling atmosphere and headed back to the food tents. Following my travel rule-of-thumb to choose the busiest place with the most locals, we found a tent and ordered dinner.

Appetizers of bread, dipping sauces and seasoned olives to start off our meal.
meat and vegetable skewers from a food stand in Marrakesh

Even though we were in a tent, we were given the standard appetizers of olives and bread after being seated. I ordered tajine, but it was already sold out for the night. Instead, I opted for mixed skewers, which included beef, chicken, goat, vegetables, and possibly camel. The skewers were seasoned well and delivered quickly. The place was bustling with a mixture of tourists and locals. We were seated at the end of the table, offering an unobstructed view of the square, but our meal was constantly interrupted by beggars, merchants, and musicians. This is something to consider when choosing where you will to sit.

Exploring the Medina by Day: Shopping and Sightseeing
A medina shop bursting with potential gifts.

The following morning, we returned to the medina. The merchants in Marrakesh were a bit more aggressive than in other places we visited. Prices were reasonable, but a few merchants pushed us too far. When we were with our guide, we were treated more politely. He was able to diffuse the aggressiveness of the merchants who followed us.

Day time view of Marrakesh medina

The majority of people we met in Marrakesh, whether at the medina or elsewhere, were incredibly friendly. The aggressive merchants we encountered were a small minority, but they stood out. It was generally the merchants without shops who were the rudest or most aggressive. However, my wife and I did have one particularly shocking run-in with a shopkeeper as well. In the US, I would not have been as polite in the face of his incredibly rude approach. This is not indicative of the majority, but you are bound to encounter aggressive merchants if you visit.

A donkey pulling a cart through the medina in Marrakesh stopping for a bite to eat.
Navigating the Medina: Tips and Tricks

The shops off the main square are along alleyways forming a rough grid. The alleys were not as confusing as Fez, but not entirely intuitive like Rabat. I wouldn’t expect anyone to get lost if they have a reasonable sense of direction. The sounds of the square provide an audible cue, and the market layout along the edge of the square helped us with orientation.

Shops in the Marrakesh Medina
What to Buy: Souvenirs and Local Goods

There was plenty to be found in the medina. Near the end of our vacation, we could have easily found everything we purchased had we forgotten something. The shops carried leather goods, spices, argan oil, tajines, artwork, clothing, and even fresh olives. The olives in Morocco were delicious. I wish I had brought some back with me.

Art work for sale at Marrakesh medina
Abundant olives for sale in the medina in Marrakesh
The Medina by Day vs. Night: A Stark Contrast

The photos of our evening dinner give a bit of insight into what the tents looked like at night. Imagine those tents covering half of a large square. During the daytime, the plaza is nearly a ghost town. It’s amazing how quickly they set up for dinner. The photo below shows what the plaza looks like during the day. The red area to the right is where the food tents will be set up later in the day.

Marrakesh medina main plaza during the day.

I enjoyed the Marrakesh medina. Despite several aggressive merchants and aggressive panhandling, it was the most interesting of any we visited. Each medina is unique, but you really have to visit the one in Marrakesh to fully appreciate the chaos. Your senses will be bombarded from every direction. As you walk from the minaret towards the plaza, horse-drawn carriages line the route, waiting to take passengers on a city tour. Merchants selling toys and small items crowd this area, waiting to make eye contact with unsuspecting tourists.

Horse carriages lining the walkway into the Marrakesh medina.
Conclusion: The Unique Charm of Marrakesh’s Medina

As you enter the plaza, musicians fill the air with joyful sounds, creating a carnival-like environment. Snake charmers add to the din with their pipes, while the food tents fill the air with the smell of barbecued meat and fried fish. Ice cream, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juice are also popular stands forming an outer ring around the food tents. If you are looking for a meal or an evening snack, there is plenty to choose from. It is an experience you don’t want to miss.

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Marrakesh Magic: Fantastic and Scenic Horse Carriage Ride

Horse-drawn carriages are a quintessential tourist attraction in Marrakesh. They offer a nostalgic and scenic way to explore the vibrant city. As visitors approach the bustling markets, they can’t miss the long queue of carriages parked along the promenade. Here, drivers eagerly wait to take them on a horse carriage ride of Marrakesh’s enchanting streets. This experience brought to mind the horse-drawn carriages of Central Park in New York. Or, maybe the haunted carriage rides in New Orleans. But Marrakesh adds its unique flair to this charming mode of transport.

View of road from horse draw carriage.

A Memorable Horse Carriage Ride Experience

During our stay in Marrakesh, my wife and I opted for a high-end horse carriage ride experience as part of our tour package. Our hotel, situated about a mile from the medina, was the starting point for our delightful journey. A row of elegant carriages lined up in front of our hotel, ready to whisk us away on a meandering journey towards the medina. Taking side roads we hadn’t explored before, we enjoyed a fresh perspective of the area surrounding our hotel.

Horse Carriage tour in Marrakesh.

As the sun began to set, our carriages boldly entered the main plaza, creating a spectacular scene against the carnival-like atmosphere already brewing in the square. This ride wasn’t just a tour; it was part of an unforgettable dinner package that included an incredible fine-dining experience. I’ll delve into the details of the dinner later, but suffice it to say, the combined carriage ride and dinner, costing $65 per person, was worth every penny.

Exploring Marrakesh by Horse Carriage

Our carriage ride served two purposes: it transported us to our dining destination and provided a scenic tour through the market. I was initially surprised that horses were allowed in the bustling square with so many people milling about. However, the experience added a unique charm to our evening. While we didn’t venture too far into the square, the sight of the horses amidst the crowd was a memorable spectacle.

Horse drawn carriage ride through back streets of Marrakesh

For tourists looking to explore Marrakesh, there are various carriage ride options. You can take carriages to see the city’s historic ramparts, visit gardens, or embark on organized tours that include dining experiences like ours. Booking through a tour company can sometimes be more economical; for instance, our tour, which included dinner at Lotus Privilege, was significantly cheaper than the prices listed on Viator.

Horse drawn carriages lined up near Marrakesh market

Concerns and Considerations

As an animal lover, I was initially concerned about the health and welfare of the horses. However, they appeared to be well cared for and unbothered by the traffic and crowds. The drivers seemed experienced and attentive, ensuring the horses were comfortable and safe.

Riding the horse drawn carriages through the Marrakesh medina.

Tips for Your Horse Carriage Ride

If you plan to find a caleche (carriage) when you arrive at the medina, head to the queue located between the Koutoubia Mosque and the square at Djema el Fna. Be prepared to haggle, as the initial price quoted by the driver will likely be higher than what you should pay. For a short horse carriage ride, expect to pay around $20, with longer rides costing more.

Why You Should Try a Carriage Ride in Marrakesh

Carriage rides in Marrakesh offer a fun and relaxing way to see the city, providing a break for your feet while allowing you to soak in the sights and sounds of this enchanting place. The prices are reasonable, and the experience is both nostalgic and unique. If you find yourself in Marrakesh, consider hopping on a horse-drawn carriage for a memorable and charming tour of the city.

Marrakesh medina.

Conclusion

Exploring Marrakesh by a horse carriage ride is an experience that combines nostalgia, charm, and convenience. Whether you’re taking a scenic route to dinner, exploring historic sites, or simply giving your feet a rest, the carriage rides offer a unique and enjoyable way to see the city. So, if you find yourself in Marrakesh, don’t miss the opportunity to take a leisurely ride and create unforgettable memories.

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Majorelle Garden: A Tranquil Escape in the Heart of Marrakesh

One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the enchanting Jardin Majorelle Garden. This stunning garden, created over a forty-year period by French painter Jacques Majorelle, offered us a serene visit during our trip. Ranked as the number two attraction (currently) in Marrakesh by TripAdvisor, Jardin Majorelle offers a peaceful escape. I found Marrakesh to be a bustling city with a vibrant market. Therefore, we found this visit a unique opportunity to explore both nature and local culture. Especially with the addition of the Berber Museum.

Jardin Majorelle map, Marakesh

The History of Jardin Majorelle Garden

Jacques Majorelle began developing the garden in 1923, importing plants from all five continents. His residence was located within the garden, making it a true labor of love. Unfortunately, financial difficulties forced Majorelle to sell parts of his ten-acre garden. In 1947, he opened the garden to the public to help offset his expenses. After his death, the garden fell into disrepair until it was rediscovered by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé in 1966.

Interior garden at Majorelle Garden

In 1980, they purchased the property. Consequently, they saved it from being turned into a hotel. They installed a new irrigation system and more than doubled the number of plant species from 135 to 300. When Yves Saint Laurent passed away in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the garden, and a monument now commemorates his contributions.

Exploring the Jardin Majorelle Garden

My wife and I meandered through the garden, which currently spans two and a half acres. This offered a manageable yet still impressive space for our visit. Upon entering, we were greeted by a fountain with a choice of paths leading straight ahead or veering off to the right towards the Berber Museum. The garden is characterized by its signature Majorelle blue accents, water features, and a variety of plants arranged to create a peaceful atmosphere. Overall, it was a tranquil way for my wife and I to spend a few hours.

The garden is home to several species of birds, including bulbuls, blackbirds, sparrows, robins, blue tits, great tits, warblers, grey wagtails, and turtledoves. Their chirping, combined with the sound of trickling water, enhanced our enjoyment of the serene atmosphere. We stopped to rest on park benches beneath covered walkways to reflect on the quiet beauty around us.

Colorful flowers inside Majorelle Garden

The Berber Museum

The Berber Museum, housed in what was once Majorelle’s painting studio, charges an additional admission fee. Opened on December 3, 2011, the museum is divided into four rooms, each highlighting different aspects of Berber culture and craftsmanship. Visitors enter through a small introductory room before moving on to:

  • Two: Traditional Skills – Showcasing items that demonstrate the craftsmanship of the Berber people.
  • Three: Berber Jewels – Displaying a variety of intricate jewelry designed and worn by Berber women.
  • Four: Berber Finery – Featuring festive costumes, carpets, and musical instruments.

No photography is allowed inside the museum, but the collection, which includes 600 objects dating from the eighteenth century through the 1960s, offers a fascinating glimpse into Berber heritage. The tour concludes in a gift shop where visitors can purchase souvenirs.

Fountain and plaza area near Berber Museum

Practical Information

  • Entrance Fees: Currently gardens cost 165 dirhams (approximately seventeen US dollars) and the Berber Museum costs an additional 55 dirhams (approximately five US dollars). The fees are reasonable given the immaculate maintenance of the garden and the carefully curated exhibits of the museum.
  • Accessibility: Both the garden and museum are wheelchair accessible.
  • Hours of Operation:
    • The Jardin Majorelle is open every day of the week, from 8 a.m to 6:30 p.m. The last entry is at 6 p.m.
    • The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts is open every day of the week, from 8 a.m to 6 p.m.  The last entry is at 5:30 pm.

For those interested in luxury shopping, there is a YSL shop behind the museum offering high-end products for those looking to indulge.

Cactus and signage inside Jardin Majorelle

Final Thoughts on Majorelle Garden

Jardin Majorelle offers a beautiful blend of nature, art, and culture, making it a must-visit destination in Marrakech. Whether you’re taking a leisurely stroll through the gardens, enjoying the peaceful ambiance, or exploring the rich history and artistry of the Berber Museum, Jardin Majorelle promises a memorable experience.

Large blooming cactus in the interior of Majorelle Garden, near the Berber Museum.

Don’t forget to add this enchanting garden to your itinerary when visiting Marrakech. It’s a perfect spot to relax, learn, and immerse yourself in the beauty of Moroccan culture.

Walkways offer great views of the immaculate Majorelle Garden.

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Goat Trees of Morocco: A Unique Sight on the Road to Essaouira

While traveling from Marrakesh to Essaouira, Morocco, we encountered an unusual and unforgettable sight: goats climbing trees. Not just one goat in one tree, but numerous goats scattered across several trees. Goat Trees. This peculiar scene was once an essential part of argan oil production. However, it now primarily serves as a delightful spectacle for passing tourists.

Goat Trees of Morocco: Goats adorn a small Argan Tree.

The Fascinating Role of Goats in Argan Oil Production

About an hour or two out of Marrakesh, we came across these climbing goats. Historically, these goats played a crucial role in the production of argan oil. Goats are unable to digest the nuts of the argan tree, so they consume the ripe fruit, allowing the nuts to pass through their digestive tracts. This process softened the nuts, making them easier to process into argan oil. However, modern production methods have evolved, and this practice is no longer necessary to meet the high demand for argan oil.

Argan tree with limbs reinforced to support the weight of a dozen goats.

Today, the goats have taken on a different role: creating photo opportunities for tourists. It’s a win-win situation; the goats get to enjoy their favorite treats while tourists capture memorable photos. Shortly after taking these photos, we stopped at an argan cooperative where local women demonstrated how they create various products from the argan nuts, ranging from cooking oil to cosmetics. More on that in a later post.

The Climbing Goats in Action

Once the first goat ascends a tree, the rest of the flock typically follows. These goats are adept at climbing precariously into the branches, where they nibble contentedly. Nearby, the shepherds keep watch, waiting for tourists to snap photos. It’s customary to tip the shepherd, though not mandatory. I gave the shepherd twenty dirhams, about two US dollars, which seemed fair for such a unique experience.

Goat Trees of Morocco: View of goats in a tree from below

Accompanying the shepherd was a young girl carrying a baby goat, offering another photo opportunity. However, she didn’t seem particularly happy about being part of the tourist attraction, so I refrained from taking her photo.

Goat Trees of Morocco: A Unique Experience

While researching, I found claims that goats climb trees in Texas as well, though I couldn’t find any concrete evidence online. Regardless, goats are naturally skilled climbers, and if Moroccan goats can scale trees, it stands to reason that goats elsewhere might too. However, seeing a herd of goats in trees halfway around the world was a special experience.

A dozen goats creating a spectacle atop an Argon tree in Morocco

Goat Trees: Tips for Travelers

If you ever find yourself traveling to Morocco and heading toward the coast where argan trees grow, keep your eyes peeled. Spotting these goat trees is a delightful experience you won’t want to miss. Just remember to tip the shepherd – it’s a small price to pay for such a unique and enjoyable spectacle.

Farmers finding respite from the heat beneath a tree where a few goats have been staged for a photo opportunity.

In summary, the goat trees of Morocco offer a fascinating glimpse into the country’s unique agricultural history and provide a fun, memorable experience for travelers. Don’t miss the chance to witness this charming sight on your next visit to Morocco.

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Marjana Cooperative: Argan Oil Production With a Heart

On our way to the enchanting coastal town of Essaouira, Morocco, we had the pleasure of visiting the Marjana Cooperative. Located just outside Essaouira, this cooperative is dedicated to empowering local rural women by providing a safe work environment and fair wages. We learned that the cooperative produces argan oil, a product renowned for its culinary and cosmetic uses. Given that the majority of the world’s argan oil production takes place in the small area surrounding Essaouira, we knew visiting a cooperative like Marjana would offer a unique insight into this traditional and labor-intensive process. Additionally, we knew this would be an interesting opportunity to pick up some gifts.

Exterior of Marjana Cooperative gift shop

The Argan Oil Production Process

We quickly learned that producing argan oil the traditional way is a meticulous and labor-intensive process. While mechanized production is more efficient, it doesn’t offer the same economic empowerment to local residents as the traditional method does. It was amazing to witness the traditional method. The process begins with cracking the shells of the argan nuts, a task performed by the women of the cooperative. We watched as they sat on the floor with large bags of argan nuts, cracking each shell with a stone. The scene reminded me of a knitting club, with the women working independently while socializing in a relaxed environment.

Cooperative participant with large bags of Argan nuts.
The process begins by sorting large bags of Argan nuts
Sorting and cracking Argan nuts. More difficult than they make it look.
The women at the cooperative crack the nuts by hand

The skill required to crack the argan nuts was impressive. The guests we watched attempt it quickly realized the difficulty, often struggling to crack even a single nut. The women, however, make it look effortless, deftly striking the nuts to reveal the precious kernels inside. As a result, I opted not to attempt cracking the nuts. I didn’t want to embarrass myself.

Cracking Argan nuts
Creating paste from the Argan nuts

Marjana Cooperative: From Nuts to Oil

Once the nuts were cracked, we observed the kernels being ground and mixed to form a thick paste. This paste was then transferred to another station where it is churned into oil. The kernels were placed into a stone grinder that the women spun by hand, allowing the thick, reddish oil to trickle into a large clay basin.

Creating oil from the Argan nut paste.

The leftover solids from the argan nuts are not wasted. These protein-rich remnants are formed into large bricks and used as animal feed and in various cosmetic products. This sustainable practice ensures that every part of the nut is utilized.

Processing Argan nut paste into oil.

The Marjana Cooperative Experience

After observing the labor-intensive process of producing argan oil, we were taken to the adjoining gift shop. Here, we had the opportunity to purchase a variety of argan products at prices maybe somewhat higher than what you would typically find elsewhere. However, we felt the tradeoff to support the cooperative made sense. The range of products included spreads (one of which tasted remarkably like peanut butter), soaps, and hair products. We also received demonstrations on the various uses for the oils.

Marjana Cooperative gift shop interior.

Despite the relatively high prices, we made several purchases, knowing that the products were hand-rendered and the proceeds supported the local community. My wife, a regular user of argan oil, appreciated the quality and the fair trade aspect of our buys.

Visiting the Marjana Cooperative

The Marjana Cooperative is located at Lahrarta 44000 Ounara – Essaouira, Maroc. Visting in person was a special experience. However, for those unable to visit in person, they offer a selection of their Fair Trade products online at Marjana Cooperative. However, the online selection is limited compared to the variety available in-store.

Map showing location of Marjana Cooperative.

Visiting the Marjana Cooperative was an unexpected highlight of our trip to Morocco. It was not only educational but also a meaningful way for us to support the local economy. If you find yourself traveling to Essaouira, a stop at the Marjana Cooperative is a must. You’ll leave with a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship involved in producing argan oil and the knowledge that your purchases are making a positive impact.

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Why Essaouira is the Best Day Trip from Marrakech

During our visit to Marrakech, Morocco, my wife and I took a memorable day trip to the coastal town of Essaouira. This journey included some fascinating stops along the way. This included photographing goats climbing Argan trees and visiting an Argan oil cooperative. The entire day trip was as enriching as it was scenic.

Essaouira waterfront promenade.
Essaouira Beach Promenade

A Scenic Descent into Essaouira

Our approach to Essaouira was marked by its elevated surroundings. This offered panoramic views of the city before descending into the charming waterfront town. The city’s resort-like ambiance quickly gave way to the historical allure of the old city as we approached its fortified gates. Just outside these gates, we paused to admire the intriguing sculptures on a plaza.

Stone Sculpture near entrance to Essaouira old city.
Stone Sculpture on Exterior Plaza
Essaouira old city gate
Essaouira Gate

The Dual Charm of Essaouira’s Medina

Having visited medinas in various Moroccan cities, we found each to possess its unique charm. Essaouira’s medina stood out with its dual characteristics. The seaside location lent a laid-back atmosphere. This contrasted with sturdy ramparts and cannons along the upper walls emphasized its historic role as a fortress. This added a unique flavor to our visit, distinguishing it from other medinas we had seen.

View of the sea from Essaouira ramparts
View of the Sea from the Ramparts
Cannon located on the Essaouira upper ramparts
Rampart Cannon
Cannon facing the sea atop Essaouira rampart
Another Cannon

A Blend of Commerce and Culture at Essaouira

The medina felt akin to visiting a seaside town in the United States. Wide alleys and shops cater to both local and international tourists. From artwork and handicrafts to fossils and clothing, the variety of shops offered something for everyone. I finally found the perfect painting to take home, depicting the traditional Moroccan sport of Fantasia, a fitting memento of our trip.

Fantasia painting I purchased.
“Fantasia” Painting I Purchased
Art dealer in Essaouira
Another Art Dealer Nearby
Local art in Essaouira
Additional Examples of Local Art

Architectural Simplicity with Historical Significance

The architecture was predominantly white with touches of blue, complemented by brick and stonework. Vestiges of the fortress, such as cannons on the ramparts and lower levels, highlighted its strategic importance. As we wound our way through the medina, we ascended to the upper level. Here, we found the ramparts which provided stunning views of the ocean. We could almost sense the gone-by era of this city’s formidable defenses.

Restaurants along entrance walkway from old city gates
Garden in Essaouira old city
Essaouira old city minaret
Shops in old city Essouira
Bustling market area in Essaouira old city
Cannon on lower level of the Essaouira old city rampart
Cannon below the Ramparts

A Brief but Enriching Visit

Although our time in Essaouira was brief, it left a lasting impression. The cool weather and our tight schedule precluded a beach visit. However, we did get glimpses suggesting a calm and clean coastline ideal for sunbathing. The beach at the medina’s end had some flotsam and debris, but the overall beach area appeared inviting.

Beach outside Essaouira old city

Essaouira: A Shopper’s Paradise

The medina was a delightful place for shopping. We purchased beautiful woodwork made from the Thuya tree, a cedar unique to Morocco, along with a painting, fossils, and woven pillow covers. The shopping experience was fun and rewarding, adding to the town’s overall charm.

Shops located within Essaouira old city
Shops in Essaouira old city

Final Thoughts on Essaouira

Essaouira is definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re a beach lover. While our half-day visit provided a good sense of the town, spending more time here would allow for a deeper appreciation of its laid-back vibe and rich history. Despite the short duration, this trip was a highlight, filled with unique experiences and memorable purchases.

If you find yourself in Marrakech, consider a day trip—you won’t be disappointed.

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