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During our time in Jordan, we made it a point to experience the country’s rich culinary scene. One of the gastronomic highlights of our trip was dining at Um Khalil in Madaba. This well-known Lebanese restaurant is famous for its authentic flavors, warm hospitality, and inviting atmosphere. From the moment we arrived, we felt welcomed, and our evening turned out to be a wonderful mix of delicious food, great company, and impeccable service.

The Story Behind Um Khalil

Um Khalil’s legacy dates back to 1977, when it was founded by a Lebanese family seeking to bring the traditional flavors of Lebanon to Jordan. Over the years, it has become one of the most celebrated Lebanese restaurants in the country. It is known for its high-quality ingredients, flavorful dishes, and commitment to authentic Middle Eastern hospitality. The restaurant’s ambiance strikes a perfect balance between elegance and warmth. We felt it would be ideal for both casual dinners and special occasions​.

An Evening of Exceptional Hospitality

One of the standout aspects of our visit was the attentive and welcoming service. Our host, Mahmoud, was exceptional, ensuring we had everything we needed and making thoughtful recommendations. His enthusiasm and professionalism truly enhanced our dining experience. The staff, in general, were friendly, knowledgeable, and efficient. Our hosts created an environment where we could simply relax and enjoy our meal.

A Feast of Lebanese Delights

For dinner, my wife and I shared a selection of dishes, starting with the Rocca Salad with Orange and Beetroot. The combination of peppery arugula, sweet citrus, and earthy beets was both refreshing and flavorful. It was a perfect way to start our meal. We also ordered Hummus, which was incredibly smooth, creamy, and perfectly seasoned. It paired wonderfully with the freshly baked bread served at the table.

For our main course, we chose the Lebanese House Chicken, a dish that was both succulent and aromatic, bursting with spices and slow-cooked to perfection. The flavors were rich but not overwhelming. It was easy to see why this is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Every bite was a testament to Um Khalil’s dedication to authentic Lebanese cuisine.

An Um Khalil Sweet Ending

Just when we thought our meal couldn’t get any better, we were surprised with complimentary desserts—a wonderful touch that made the experience even more special. We were served Mouhalabieh, a creamy Lebanese milk pudding infused with orange blossom and rose water, as well as Lazy Cake, a delightful chocolate biscuit dessert that was both rich and indulgent. These sweet treats provided the perfect ending to an already incredible meal.

Final Thoughts

Our dinner at Um Khalil was one of the most memorable dining experiences of our trip. From the exceptional food and inviting ambiance to the impeccable service by Mahmoud and his team, everything about the evening was top-notch. Whether you’re a fan of Lebanese cuisine or simply looking for a fantastic restaurant in Jordan, Um Khalil is a must-visit. We would highly recommend it to anyone traveling through Madaba or Amman, and we can’t wait to return on a future trip.

During our travels through Jordan, one of the most profound and awe-inspiring stops was Mount Nebo. This is a place of immense historical and spiritual significance. Located about 10 kilometers from Madaba and less than an hour’s drive from Amman, this ancient site is believed to be where Moses stood and viewed the Promised Land before he passed away. The site’s deep connection to biblical history, coupled with stunning panoramic vistas, made for an unforgettable experience.

Mount Nebo – A Place of Biblical and Historical Significance

Mount Nebo holds a special place in the hearts of many religious pilgrims. According to the Old Testament, Moses ascended this very mountain to see the land of Canaan. However, he was not permitted to enter it. Over the centuries, this sacred site has drawn Christian, Jewish, and Muslim visitors alike. Many visitors pay homage to one of the most revered prophets in history.

Archaeological evidence suggests that early Christians recognized Mount Nebo’s significance as early as the 4th century AD. At that time a monastic community settled here. They constructed a Byzantine church, which was later expanded into the Memorial Church of Moses in the 6th century. This church, still standing today, is the heart of the Mount Nebo experience. It features breathtaking mosaics that depict hunting scenes, pastoral life, and exotic animals—some of the best-preserved Byzantine art in Jordan​.

Exploring the Mount Nebo Memorial Church and Archaeological Park

Upon entering the Mount Nebo Archaeological Park, we were immediately struck by the peaceful ambiance. The Memorial Church of Moses is the site’s main structure, a modern Franciscan restoration built over the original Byzantine church. The mosaics inside the church were a highlight of our visit, revealing intricate and colorful depictions of nature and daily life from over 1,500 years ago.

Outside, one of the most striking monuments is the Brazen Serpent Sculpture, a towering metal staff entwined with a serpent. Designed by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni, this piece symbolizes Moses’ bronze serpent from the Book of Numbers and the cross of Christ—a powerful blend of Old and New Testament imagery.

The archaeological park also features the remains of early monastic buildings, tombs, and cisterns, showcasing Mount Nebo’s role as an important Christian pilgrimage site for centuries. It was fascinating to see how history unfolded in layers here, from biblical times to Byzantine influence.

A Breathtaking View of the Holy Land

One of the most spectacular aspects of Mount Nebo is the view from the summit. Standing at about 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level, the mountain offers an incredible panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. On a clear day, we could see the Dead Sea, the Jordan Valley, and even Jerusalem in the distance. It was easy to imagine Moses standing at this very spot, looking out toward the land he had journeyed toward for decades​.

The lookout point features a stone tablet marking the directions and distances to key biblical locations, including Bethlehem, Jericho, and the Mount of Olives. This geographical and spiritual connection made our visit all the more profound.

Reflections on Our Visit

Mount Nebo is more than just a historic site—it is a place of reflection, faith, and history woven together. Whether you visit for religious reasons, archaeological interest, or simply to take in the stunning views, it is an essential stop on any Jordan itinerary. The peaceful atmosphere, the ancient mosaics, and the connection to biblical history made this a highlight of our trip.

For anyone planning a visit, we recommend arriving early to enjoy the tranquility before tour groups arrive. While Mount Nebo doesn’t take long to explore, it’s worth taking the time to absorb its significance, whether standing at the summit or admiring the mosaics in the church. If you’re in Madaba or traveling the King’s Highway, don’t miss the chance to witness this unforgettable site.

Our journey through Jordan brought us to Madaba, a city rich in religious history and famous for its ancient mosaics. One of the highlights of our visit was the Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist, a fascinating site that blends history, faith, and archaeology.

Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist: A Church Built on History

The church stands on Madaba’s ancient acropolis, constructed over layers of historical significance. Today’s structure is relatively modern, replacing earlier churches that once occupied the site. The former church is now a visitor center, welcoming guests to explore the deep spiritual and historical roots of this location.

The Underground Museum and the Moabite Well

One of the most intriguing aspects of the church is its underground museum. Recent excavations have revealed a series of rooms and tunnels, offering a glimpse into Madaba’s past. The most remarkable find here is the ancient Moabite well, estimated to be over 3,000 years old. This deep, stone-built well has likely provided water to inhabitants for centuries, linking past civilizations to the present.

Climbing the Bell Tower for a Panoramic View

For those willing to climb, the church’s bell tower offers some of the best views of Madaba. The ascent is an adventure in itself, as visitors maneuver past oversized bells before reaching the top. From here, you can take in sweeping views of the city, an experience that truly connects past and present​.

The Modern Chapel and the Legacy of John the Baptist

The chapel that stands today serves as a modern place of worship while preserving the historical and religious significance of the site. Inside, an icon of the Beheading of John the Baptist commemorates the biblical event, drawing pilgrims and visitors seeking spiritual reflection​. Madaba is known as the City of Mosaics. More mosaics have been found here than in any other city on Earth. With that in mind, I was struck by the mosaic influence on the church facade. It was a subtle nod to the rich artistic history of the region.

Final Thoughts on the Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist

Visiting the Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist was a memorable experience, combining history, archaeology, and faith. Whether exploring the underground museum, marveling at the ancient Moabite well, or taking in the views from the bell tower, this site offers a profound connection to Madaba’s rich past.

On our journey through Jordan, we made a brief but memorable stop at the Wadi Mujib Overlook. This breathtaking viewpoint is often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Jordan.” The sweeping views of the deep, winding gorge carved by the Mujib River were absolutely stunning. They offered a dramatic contrast between the rugged cliffs and the serene Dead Sea in the distance. The overlook is an ideal spot for travelers who want to take in the natural beauty of the region without embarking on the more demanding hikes within Wadi Mujib itself​.

The Bohemian Coffee Shop at Wadi Mujib

Adding to the charm of our visit was the quirky coffee shop located right at the overlook. The shop had a laid-back, bohemian vibe, decorated with eclectic items that made it feel like a hidden treasure along the roadside. We enjoyed a cup of hot tea while soaking in the views. It offered a simple yet perfect way to appreciate the tranquility of the area. The hospitality of the café owner added to the experience. He facilitated a unique and welcoming stop in the midst of Jordan’s rugged landscapes.

Wadi Mujib: Biblically Referenced as the Arnon River

Wadi Mujib has a rich history dating back to ancient times, with mentions in biblical texts as the Arnon River. This river formed a natural boundary between the Moabites and the Amorites. Throughout history, it has served as a strategic location for trade and military routes. The region links the highlands of central Jordan to the Dead Sea. The Nabataeans, Romans, and later Islamic civilizations utilized the area for its resources and defensive advantages. Today, Wadi Mujib is a protected biosphere reserve, preserving its historical and ecological significance.

Final Thoughts

For those passing through, Wadi Mujib Overlook is well worth a visit. Whether you stay for a few minutes to capture photos or linger over a cup of tea, it provides a refreshing break on any road trip through Jordan. If you have more time, Wadi Mujib also offers adventurous hiking trails. Among them is the famous Siq Trail, where visitors can trek through water-filled canyons for a more immersive experience​.

Mukawir, also known as Machaerus, is a striking hilltop fortress that sits high above the Dead Sea. It offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. It was once a grand palace and military stronghold built by Herod the Great in the 1st century BCE. Later, his son Herod Antipas ruled from here and, according to historical accounts, imprisoned and ultimately beheaded John the Baptist at this very site after Salome’s infamous dance (Matthew 14:3-11)​

Our Solitude at Mukawir

Our visit to Mukawir was truly unique—there were no other visitors at the site. This created a rare opportunity to explore the ruins in absolute solitude. The silence, interrupted only by the sound of the wind, made it feel as though we had stepped back in time.

Getting to Mukawir

The journey to Mukawir is an adventure in itself. Located about an hour’s drive from Madaba along the scenic King’s Highway, the road winds through rugged terrain before reaching the fortress. The final ascent to the ruins involves a steep but rewarding climb. We trekked up a winding staircase that lead us to the summit​.

Exploring the Ruins

Once at the top, we explored the remnants of Herod’s palace, the ancient water cisterns, and the scattered stone foundations of what were once grand halls. Standing at the edge of the ruins, we could see the Dead Sea shimmering in the distance. We could almost make out the faint outlines of Jericho and Jerusalem, but the sky was too overcast that day.

Mukawir is Worth the Trip

Despite its historical significance, Mukawir remains one of Jordan’s less-visited archaeological sites. Unlike more popular locations such as Petra or Jerash, Mukawir has an untouched, almost forgotten aura. It is an exceptional destination for history enthusiasts and those seeking a more intimate experience with Jordan’s past.

Final Thoughts

While facilities at the site are minimal—there are no cafes or large visitor centers—this lack of commercialization only adds to the authenticity of the visit. For those exploring Jordan’s historical sites, Mukawir offers an unforgettable glimpse into the region’s rich and complex history. The site stands as a silent witness to the dramatic events that once unfolded within its walls​.

During our stay in Amman, we decided to try Sheen Restaurant, a well-rated spot known for its fusion of traditional Jordanian and Armenian cuisine. Conveniently located near our hotel, the Grand Hyatt, Sheen was within walking distance, making it an easy and inviting choice for dinner after a long day of exploring.

Sheen Restaurant – A Cozy Yet Modern Atmosphere

Sheen Restaurant is situated in a villa on Abu Tammam Street, near the Second Circle. The ambiance combines modern elegance with a cozy, welcoming vibe, perfect for both casual dining and special occasions. With indoor and outdoor seating options, the restaurant provides a versatile setting for guests.

Our Culinary Selections at Sheen Restaurant

We ordered three dishes, which my wife and I shared:

Rocca Salad

This was, without a doubt, the best salad we had during our two weeks in Jordan. The freshness of the greens, the balance of flavors, and the quality of the ingredients made it a standout dish.

Chef’s Msakhan

Msakhan is a classic Palestinian-Jordanian dish featuring sumac-spiced chicken served on flatbread with onions and olive oil. While this is a beloved staple in the region, I personally didn’t care for Sheen’s version as much as I had hoped. The flavors were rich, but something about the preparation didn’t quite meet my expectations.

Batata Harra

This dish was a pleasant surprise. These spicy, crispy potatoes were bursting with flavor, offering just the right amount of heat and texture. They were a highlight of the meal, adding a satisfying contrast to the other dishes.

A Unique Bread Presentation

One of the most interesting parts of the meal was the bread service. Instead of the usual basket, Sheen presents their fresh bread hanging from metal hangers, a creative and visually striking approach that added a fun touch to the dining experience.

Final Thoughts

Sheen Restaurant offers a great blend of traditional and modern Middle Eastern flavors, with a few Armenian influences mixed in. While not every dish was a favorite, the Rocca Salad and Batata Harra were excellent, and the atmosphere was enjoyable. If you’re staying in central Amman, Sheen is worth a visit for a relaxed and well-prepared meal in a stylish setting.

For more details about Sheen Restaurant, you can visit their official page​

During our visit to northern Jordan, we had the opportunity to explore the fascinating Jesus Cave (كهف النبي عيسى). This intriguing pilgrimage site is located just a few kilometers west of Um Qais. This cave, deeply rooted in local tradition, is believed by residents to have been a place where Jesus stayed while traveling through the region, possibly as part of his mission to spread his teachings. Whether or not this connection to Jesus can be historically verified, the cave remains an intriguing and atmospheric place. We felt both the spiritual significance as well as a glimpse into ancient history.

Jesus Cave – A Hidden Gem with a Sacred Story

The Jesus Cave is tucked away in the hills near Um Qais. It is accessible via a short drive followed by a walk along an unmarked path. The cave itself is modest, yet its tranquil and remote setting adds to its mystique. Local legends suggest that Jesus sought refuge here during his journey to Gadara (the ancient name for Um Qais), where, according to the New Testament, he is said to have performed the miracle of casting demons into a herd of pigs (Matthew 8:28-34). While this biblical event is often associated with the area, the specific link between Jesus and this particular cave remains part of local oral tradition​

Inside, the cave is simple and unadorned, with signs of past use. It cleared seemed a likely shelter for travelers or religious seekers. Given its association with Jesus, it is a quiet place of reflection and pilgrimage for those interested in Christian history. The journey to the cave itself offers stunning panoramic views of the Jordan Valley and the Sea of Galilee. The views alone made it a rewarding visit for both history enthusiasts and nature lovers.

Visiting the Cave

Reaching the Jesus Cave is relatively easy but requires a bit of planning. From Um Qais, it’s about a 5-kilometer drive south toward Al Adassiyah, with signs leading to the cave. If you’re driving, expect a short walk after parking near the entrance. For those relying on public transport, local buses run from Um Qais to Al Adassiyah, followed by a 1.5-kilometer walk to the cave. Taxis are also available and provide a more convenient option​. This was an extension of our Um Qais tour, so we already had a driver to transport us to this location.

While the Jesus Cave may not be one of Jordan’s most well-known tourist destinations, it is certainly worth visiting for those exploring Um Qais and its surrounding historical sites. Its unique blend of biblical tradition, local heritage, and stunning scenery makes it a memorable stop.

Would we recommend it? Absolutely! Whether you’re a history buff, a spiritual traveler, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience in Jordan, the Jesus Cave is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered.

Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Jordan, Um Qais (ancient Gadara) is a breathtaking archaeological site. The ancient ruins offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Once a prominent member of the Decapolis—a league of ten Greco-Roman cities—Gadara was a thriving cultural and intellectual center, home to philosophers, poets, and scholars. Its strategic hilltop location provided stunning views of the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and even the Golan Heights. While many visitors focus on more famous sites like Jerash or Petra, Um Qais remains relatively under-visited. This made it a perfect destination for those of us seeking a more tranquil, immersive historical experience.

Um Qais Offered Subtle Serenity

When we arrived, we were struck by the silence and serenity of the site—apart from two other visitors, we had the ruins almost entirely to ourselves. The lack of crowds made for an intimate exploration. We were able to take in the grandeur and historical significance of the city without distraction. To gain a deeper understanding of the site, we hired a local guide who had once lived among the ruins. He gave us a unique perspective on both the ancient and more recent history of Um Qais. His firsthand knowledge and personal connection to the site added depth to the experience, making it feel like we were uncovering history layer by layer.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Um Qais is its Cardo, the main colonnaded street. Unlike most Roman cities, where the Cardo runs north to south, Um Qais’ Cardo uniquely runs east to west. It is the only Roman city with an East-West Cardo. This unusual design choice highlights how the Romans adapted their city planning to local geography. As we walked along this ancient street, we could almost hear the echoes of merchants and citizens who once bustled through these very pathways.

We Were Fascinated By Um Qais’ Ancient Basilica

Among the ruins we explored was the West Theater, an impressive structure built from black basalt stone. The dark volcanic stone is characteristic of the region. Standing in the theater, we imagined the performances and gatherings that once took place here. Nearby, we visited the remains of a basilica, an important public gathering space in Roman and Byzantine times. We also explored underground Roman tombs, which offered a haunting but fascinating look at the burial customs of the era.

The Nymphaeum

Another highlight of our visit was the nymphaeum, a grand public fountain that once served as a source of fresh water for the city’s inhabitants. The intricate design and craftsmanship hinted at the wealth and sophistication of Gadara at its peak. It was incredible to think about how such an advanced water system supported daily life in the ancient city.

Um Qais In Recent History

In addition to its Roman heritage, Um Qais has layers of Ottoman history woven into its fabric. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, villagers lived in homes built directly on top of the ruins, using pre-cut Roman stones for their construction. The restoration of these Ottoman-era homes is an ongoing project, blending historical preservation with modern conservation efforts. The contrast between ancient ruins and relatively recent history added another dimension to our visit.

Breathtaking Views

Beyond its architectural and historical significance, Um Qais boasts breathtaking panoramic views. Standing atop the ruins, we took in a spectacular vista of the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and the distant hills of the Golan Heights. The natural beauty combined with the site’s rich history made for an unforgettable experience.

Step Into the Past For A Memorable Experience

For those looking to explore an off-the-beaten-path archaeological treasure, Um Qais is a must-visit. Whether you’re drawn by the Roman ruins, the stunning scenery, or the quiet solitude, this ancient city offers an experience unlike any other in Jordan. We left feeling awed by its history and grateful for the opportunity to experience it without the usual tourist crowds. If you have the chance, hiring a knowledgeable local guide will add even more depth to your visit, making the past come alive before your eyes.

During our recent trip to Jordan, we spent five nights at the Grand Hyatt Amman, a five-star hotel known for its elegance, exceptional service, and prime location. Situated in the heart of the city, this hotel provided the perfect base for exploring Amman while offering luxurious accommodations and top-tier amenities.

Grand Hyatt Amman – Spacious and Well-Appointed Rooms

From the moment we entered our room, we were impressed by the thoughtful design and comfort. The beds were plush and inviting, ensuring a great night’s sleep after long days of sightseeing. The room was stocked with plenty of amenities, including high-quality toiletries, a well-stocked minibar, and a spacious work area. Housekeeping was meticulous, maintaining the room in pristine condition throughout our stay.

An Exceptional Breakfast Experience

One of the standout features of our stay was the breakfast buffet, which was the largest and most impressive of all the hotels we visited during our trip. The spread catered to a variety of dietary needs, offering Continental, Halal, Vegetarian, Vegan, and Gluten-Free options. From freshly baked pastries to live cooking stations and local delicacies, the variety was simply remarkable.

Among the staff, Emad stood out as an exceptional host, always ensuring that guests felt welcomed and attended to. His warm hospitality made our mornings even more enjoyable.

World-Class Amenities and Dining at Grand Hyatt Amman

The Grand Hyatt Amman features a range of luxurious amenities, including a spa, sauna, fitness center, and a swimming pool, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring the city. The hotel also boasts two excellent restaurants—The Lombard Amman and 32 North, each offering a unique dining experience.

Prime Location for Exploring Amman

One of the biggest advantages of staying at the Grand Hyatt is its superb location. The hotel is within short walking distance of restaurants, cafés, and stores, making it easy to explore the local scene. It’s also a short drive from Amman’s top attractions, including Rainbow Street, the Roman Theater, and the Jordan Museum.

Would We Stay at Grand Hyatt Amman Again? Absolutely!

Our experience at the Grand Hyatt Amman exceeded our expectations. From the luxurious accommodations to the incredible breakfast and attentive service, it was a truly memorable stay. Whether you’re visiting Amman for business or leisure, this hotel is an excellent choice. We wouldn’t hesitate to stay here again on a future trip!