From Souk to Sands: Experiencing the Heart of Rissani Souk

Donkey at Rissani Market

Rissani is a small town at the edge of the Sahara Desert. Before heading into the desert dunes, we visited the local Rissani souk. This market was the least touristy one we visited in Morocco. Although merchants greeted us with scarves, daggers, and fossils, the market catered mainly to locals. It was filled with fresh vegetables, spices, and other essentials for Rissani’s residents.

Horse drawn cart at Rissani Souk

After exploring the Rissani Souk, we were scheduled to visit a mosque before heading into the desert. The wind picked up, so I decided to buy a scarf. Traditional scarves here are indigo. A tall, friendly, and persistent merchant sold me a blue and black scarf for about three or four dollars. He even showed me how to tie it. This scarf proved useful in the windy dunes.

Rissani Gate

Things to see in Rissani:

  • Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Chérif – This mausoleum, rebuilt in 1965, houses the tomb of Moulay Ali Chérif, founder of the Alaouite dynasty. Non-Muslims can explore the Islamic garden but the tomb and mosque are off-limits.
  • Ksar El Fida – Located 4 km northeast of Rissani, this ancient ksar was rebuilt under Moulay Abd al Rahman. It now serves as a museum with free admission, though photography inside is prohibited.
  • Ksar Oulad Abdelhlim – This ksar hosts a bustling souk every Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Visitors can see local medicines, the sheep market, and the bird market.
  • Sijilmasa – On the northwest edge of Rissani, these ruins of a medieval city were the northern point of the trans-Saharan trade route. Recognized as an endangered site, it’s preserved by the Moroccan Ministry of Culture. You might be able to walk there from Rissani.
Scarf merchant at Rissani Souk

The Rissani Souk was a respite from the sun, with reed structures covered by cloth or tarps. Small tables and early morning vendors made up the scene. Wee visited with a couple of dozen vendors, all offering fresh produce and other goods.

Donkey near the market
Goats at nearby animal stalls.
Fresh produce at the market.

The Rissani Souk is centralized in Rissani, making it easy to find. Traveling with a tour group often means missing out on local flavor. Tour groups usually follow the same paths, but this visit felt different. We experienced genuine local life and interactions. The merchants were present, but we could still enjoy the market.

Sheltered area not in use during our visit.

We learned about Rissani and visited local shops in the souk. It was a pleasant experience. Meeting Moroccans was a highlight. Everyone we met was outgoing and friendly. Rissani captured the heart of Morocco (and captured our own hearts) with its small-town charm.

Live poultry at the market.

Rissani offered us a peek into everyday Moroccan life, away from the tourist trails. This small town was a memorable and authentic experience. I hope your visit to Morocco brings similar encounters.

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Author: John

I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.