Nestled in the hills of northern Jordan, Jerash is one of the best-preserved Greco-Roman cities in the world. As we stepped through the grand Hadrian’s Arch, we were transported back nearly two millennia to a city that once thrived under Roman rule. With its impressive colonnaded streets, vast public squares, temples, theaters, and a remarkable collection of Byzantine churches, Jerash offers an unparalleled window into history. While every part of the site was fascinating, our special interest in the Byzantine churches made for an even deeper exploration of the past.
A Grand Roman City
Our visit began with the Hippodrome, an ancient sports arena capable of seating around 15,000 spectators. It was easy to imagine the thrill of chariot races as we walked across the worn stone paths of the stadium. Continuing along, we reached the Oval Plaza, a unique, elliptical forum surrounded by Ionic columns. From here, the Cardo Maximus, the main street, stretched ahead. Its original Roman paving stones still bear the grooves left by chariot wheels. The grandeur of Jerash’s Roman engineering was evident in its symmetry, layout, and sheer scale.
We explored the Nymphaeum, a beautifully adorned public fountain that once provided fresh water to the city. Its intricate carvings and niches for statues showcased Roman artistry at its peak. The Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the city’s patron goddess, stood on a hilltop, offering a breathtaking view of Jerash. Climbing its towering steps, we marveled at the sheer size of the temple’s columns, some still standing defiantly against time.
The Byzantine Churches of Jerash
While Jerash is primarily known for its Roman architecture, its Byzantine-era churches provide a unique glimpse into the city’s later Christian period. Between the 4th and 7th centuries, Jerash became a significant Christian center. Many of its pagan temples were repurposed into churches. We visited several of these remarkable sites. Each was adorned with exquisite mosaics that told biblical stories and depicted scenes from nature.
One of the most famous was the Church of St. Theodore, built in the late 5th or early 6th century. It features beautifully preserved mosaic floors with intricate geometric designs. The Church of St. John the Baptist, another highlight, contained detailed depictions of animals and hunting scenes, elements often found in Byzantine religious art. Nearby, the Church of St. Cosmos and Damian, dedicated to two early Christian martyrs, impressed us with its elaborate mosaic inscriptions and floral motifs.
Another striking church was the Cathedral, located near the Cardo Maximus. Its grand staircase, leading up from the street, made it a central landmark in Byzantine Jerash. The nearby Church of St. Genesius displayed some of the most vibrant mosaics, including peacocks, gazelles, and other symbolic Christian imagery. The sheer number of churches within the site indicated how deeply Christianity had taken root in Jerash before the Islamic era.
A Lasting Impression
As we left Jerash, we couldn’t help but reflect on its layered history. From a thriving Roman metropolis to a Byzantine Christian stronghold, and later an Islamic settlement, the city has seen centuries of change. Walking its streets, standing in its grand theaters, and admiring its mosaics was a humbling experience—a reminder of the civilizations that once flourished here.
Jerash is more than just ruins; it is a living testament to the past. Whether you’re fascinated by Roman engineering, intrigued by Byzantine religious history, or simply love exploring ancient cities, Jerash offers something extraordinary. We highly recommend taking your time to appreciate its many layers and, if possible, hiring a local guide to bring its history to life.
