Journey Through Jordan: Two Weeks In The Other Holy Land

Our journey through Jordan was an unforgettable tapestry of history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes. Over the course of our trip, we immersed ourselves in the legacy of ancient civilizations, savored local cuisine, and experienced the warm hospitality that Jordan is renowned for. This was a Gate 1 Discovery Tour, with the first two days being our own self-guided add-on.

Journey Through Jordan gate 1 logo

Our tour guide, Omar, was the best guide we have had on any Gate 1 tour (or any other guided tour) we have taken. These are my reflection on that tour that stretched from the storied ruins of Jerash and Petra to the vibrant cultural hubs in Amman and Madaba, as well as the dramatic desert landscapes of Wadi Rum and the sun-kissed shores of Aqaba.

Journey Through Jordan Self-Guided Tour

Our journey began with our flight from Raleigh to London on American Airlines. We upgraded that flight from economy to Premium Economy. Was it worth the extra money? We thought so. When we arrived in London, we spent our layover at the Galleries South Lounge. The lounge was spacious, clean and well-stocked with a variety of dining options. It was the best thing about our otherwise tragic experience with British Airways. Speaking of which, the decline in my opinion of British Airways began with our trip from London to Amman. The lack of seat recline on a five-hour flight was simply a nonstarter for me.

Journey Through Jordan
American Airlines Premium Economy cabin

Umm Qais and the Jesus Cave

We settled in for our Jordan vacation at the Grand Hyatt in Amman. The hotel provided an amazing home-base for our self-exploration as well as the starting point for our organized tour. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, the food options exceptional and the service impeccable. We woke up early to spend the next day exploring Umm Qais, and the Jesus Cave, which we booked through TripAdvisor. Our visit to the Roman ruins that were once part of the Decapolis were amazing. The experience was enhanced by the great cultural interactions we had with our driver, Mohammad. He ensured we tasted some local flavors and spent time sharing his passion for the culture of Jordan.

Roman Theater at Umm Qais. Journey Through Jordan
Roman Theater at Umm Qais

We spent our first evening sharing a nice dinner at Sheen Restaurant which was walking distance from our hotel. After a nice meal, we headed back to the Grand Hyatt to prepare for another full day of self-touring.

Dinner at Sheen Restaurant. Journey Through Jordan
Dinner at Sheen Restaurant

Mukawir and Short Madaba Visit

The following day we had another tour planned through TripAdvisor. We were met in the lobby by our driver, Basel, who was another great ambassador for Jordan. Basel furthered our knowledge of Jordanian culture as we traveled to Mukawir, where we visited the ruins of the palace where John the Baptist was executed. We had the ruins to ourselves, which offered a unique experience for quiet reflection.

Remains of Palace at Mukawir – Where John the Baptist was beheaded

We took a quick side trip to an amazing overlook at Wadi Mujib before backtracking to Madaba. In Madaba, we asked Basel for an option other than Saint George’s Church since we would be visiting again later in the week. Basel suggested the Church of Saint John, which ended up being an exceptional recommendation. We finished with a stop at Mount Nebo, which we also returned to later in the week for a more thorough visit.

Journey Through Jordan
Church of Saint John in Madaba

Basel drove us back to Amman after an amazing day of sightseeing. We asked for his recommendations for a great restaurant. Basel offered several choices, so we opted for the one closest to our hotel. Basel dropped us off at Umm Khalil, which was an exceptional dining experience. The food was outstanding. My wife and I would probably have guessed this would be our best dining experience in Jordan. But one restaurant actually topped this great experience (you will have to read down to our stay at the Dead Sea to find out more)!

Journey Through Jordan
Umm Khalil Restaurant in Amman

Journey Through Jordan – Ancient Wonders and Cultural Treasures

Our time with Gate 1 began the following day. We were met in the Grand Hyatt lobby by Omar, our guide for the next two weeks. Omar has an engaging way of relating Jordanian culture, often through his own family and experiences. His attentiveness, knowledge and expertise lent themselves to a vacation experience that left my wife and I impressed. The tour itself was amazing, but Omar took that experience to another level. The Gate 1 experiences are based on region rather than itinerary, to keep things a bit more concise. But suffice it to say that this was one of the best, if not the best tour we have ever taken. Omar was definitely the best tour guide.

Journey Through Jordan Grand Hyatt Amman
Grand Hyatt Amman

Jerash: A Roman Masterpiece

Our day began in northern Jordan with a visit to Jerash, one of the world’s best-preserved ancient Roman cities. Strolling through the grand Hadrian’s Arch, we marveled at the colonnaded streets, sprawling public squares, and impressive theaters that once hosted thousands of spectators. We took our time exploring both the Roman ruins and the intriguing Byzantine churches scattered throughout the site.

Mosaics at Church of St. John and Damian at Jerash
Mosaics still intact at Church of St. Cosmos and Damian

The mosaics and inscriptions in these churches, including the Church of St. Cosmos and Damian and the Church of St. John the Baptist, gave us a fascinating glimpse into the city’s later Christian heritage. We had a memorable lunch at Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, before heading back to Amman. Before returning to our hotel, we made a stop at the Royal Automobile Museum

Hadrian's Gate at Jerash
Hadrian’s Gate at Jerash

Amman and Madaba: Layers of History

In Amman, we delved into the rich tapestry of Jordan’s past at the Amman Citadel and the Roman Theater. The Citadel’s ancient walls, the towering remains of the Temple of Hercules, and the panoramic views of modern Amman provided a striking contrast between past and present.

Ummayad Mosque at The Citadel
Ummayad Mosque at The Citadel

In nearby Madaba, we visited Saint George’s Church, home to the world-famous mosaic map of the Holy Land, and took time to explore Jordan Jewel Art & Mosaic, where we admired the exquisite craftsmanship of local artisans—even if the prices were a bit beyond our reach. We also enjoyed a family-style lunch at Haret Jdoudna, where traditional Jordanian dishes and a warm, bustling atmosphere perfectly captured local hospitality.

Jordan Jewel Art & Mosaic
Jordan Jewel Art & Mosaic

Journey Through Jordan – Timeless Petra and the Majesty of Wadi Rum

Petra: The Rose City

No visit to Jordan would be complete without experiencing Petra. Our visit was enhanced by a great experience staying at the Movenpick Hotel. We were enchanted by the dramatic entrance through the Siq, the narrow canyon that led us to the magnificent Treasury (Al-Khazneh), its ornate façade bathed in the soft desert light. Our exploration continued through ancient streets lined with royal tombs and hidden chapels, culminating in a challenging yet rewarding hike up to The Monastery (Ad Deir).

The Treasury at Petra
The Treasury at Petra

Despite the strenuous climb, the panoramic views from the top were worth every step. We also enriched our cultural experience by visiting the Petra Museum, which provided invaluable context about the Nabataean civilization that once thrived in this “Rose City.” Aside from great meals at the hotel, we had a unique dining experience at The Cave Bar.This unique restaurant is found inside a first century Nabataean tomb. As we departed Petra, we took an hour to explore Little Petra, an extension of the once massive civilization.

The Cave Bar in Petra
Furry crumb snatcher at the Cave Bar in Petra.

Wadi Rum: Desert Adventure

Venturing into the vast desert, we experienced the rugged beauty of Wadi Rum. We embarked on an exhilarating 4×4 and camel tour that took us through dramatic sandstone canyons and ancient rock formations. The endless desert landscape, with its majestic dunes and deep canyons, was both humbling and inspiring. Our stay at Sun City Camp in Wadi Rum allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the serene desert environment—enjoying traditional Bedouin hospitality, starry nights, and the calm that only the desert can provide.

Camel Ride at Wadi Rum.
Camel Ride through Wadi Rum

Journey Through Jordan – Coastal Charm in Aqaba

Aqaba: Sun, Sea, and Culture

Our coastal adventures continued in Aqaba, where we experienced the perfect blend of luxury and relaxation. We stayed at the Kempinski Hotel Aqaba, where our room offered spectacular views of the Red Sea, especially at sunset. The hotel’s prime beach location provided easy access to local restaurants, vibrant souks, and a host of water activities.

Kempinski Hotel Ishtar at the Red Sea.
Kempinski Hotel at the Red Sea

In addition to enjoying the hotel amenities and delicious dining options, we also visited cultural hotspots like Aqaba Castle and dined at local favorites such as Khashoka Aqaba and Berenice Beach Club. Each venue offered its own unique charm, from upscale dining experiences with panoramic sea views to lively beachfront atmospheres that captured the essence of coastal Jordan. An interesting cultural endeavor we participated in was creating sand art. We visited Aqabawi Art Studio where we learned how to make sand art. While my camel looked more like a four-legged ostrich, the experience was fun and informative.

Aqabawi Art Studio sand art class.
Aqabawi Art Studio – Making Sand Art

Journey Through Jordan – Relaxation and Reflection at the Dead Sea

During our journey to the Dead Sea, we made a couple of amazing stops. This included our visit to Smakieh Christian School. This stop added another meaningful layer to our understanding of the region’s contemporary educational and cultural landscape. We continued on to visit Kerak Castle, where layers of history span eons. Our day of cultural immersion was completed with a home-hosted lunch. We were invited into a Jordanian home where we were treated to the traditional dish called Maqlouba.

Smakieh Christian School
Smakieh Christian School – Gate 1 Foundation Sponsored School

Luxury & Relaxation at the Kempinski Hotel Dead Sea

After days of sightseeing, we checked into the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar for a two-night stay. The resort was pure luxury, offering stunning views of the Dead Sea, multiple pools, and direct access to the famous salty waters.

Sunset at Kempinski Dead Sea Resort
Sunset at Kempinski Hotel Ishtar – Dead Sea Resort
  • Floating in the Dead Sea was a surreal experience.
  • The hotel’s service was top-notch, and our room was spacious and comfortable.
  • The pools and spa facilities provided a relaxing break from the intense heat.

Bethany Beyond Jordan

Our final sightseeing excursion was to Bethany Beyond Jordan. After two weeks of amazing weather, our day began with a steady rain. As our bus ambled towards the historic site, Omar gave us an exceptional history of the discovery of this site. Interestingly, Omar studied under the professor who discovered these incredible ruins.

Chapel at Bethany Beyond Jordan
Church at Bethany Beyond Jordan

Based on biblical texts, sixth century pilgrim letters and the assistance of a geologist, they were able to pinpoint this location. The remains of both a first century chapel and fifth century basilica corroborate both biblical texts and ancient letters. After passing through military checkpoints, we were able to experience this ancient site that is possibly the most important Christian site in Jordan. We left with a deep appreciation of the efforts Jordan is making to prevent development to preserve the wilderness feel of the historic ruins.

Baptism site where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.
Baptism Site. Location where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.

Dining at Rehan Lebanese Restaurant

During our stay at the Kempinski Hotel, we enjoyed two breakfasts and two dinners at Rehan Lebanese Restaurant.

Grilled fish at Rehan Lebanese Restaurant.
Grilled fish at Rehan Lebanese Restaurant
  • Breakfast: A fantastic selection of fresh bread, mezzes, eggs, and fruit.
  • Dinner: We tried grilled fish, mixed grill, creamy hummus, and a milk cream dessert.
  • Farewell Dinner: A spread of fresh bread, cold mezzes, and grilled kebabs.

The service was outstanding, with Rami and his team (Masri, Hasan, and Khaled) making sure we had an unforgettable dining experience.

Reflections on Our Journey Through Jordan

Our return trip was a mess, with British Airways canceling our flight last minute. However, we were able to rebook on Royal Jordanian Airways, which was a better experience than British Airways. We were also impressed by the Royal Jordanian Crown Lounge at the Queen Alia Airport, where we waited for our flight. We enjoyed coffee from the Crown Cafe as we reminisced about our favorite aspects of our journey.

Royal Jordanian Crown Lounge.
Crown Cafe at the Royal Jordanian Crown Lounge at Queen Alia Airport

Our adventure in Jordan was a richly layered experience that seamlessly blended ancient history with modern comforts. We traversed the ancient ruins of Jerash and Petra, marveled at the historical treasures of Amman and Madaba, and embraced the rugged beauty of Wadi Rum and the coastal allure of Aqaba. Each destination offered unique insights into the region’s storied past and vibrant present—from the intricate mosaics and grand monuments to the friendly local vendors and warm hospitality.

Sunset in Aqaba.
Sunset in Aqaba.

If you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of natural beauty, or simply someone in search of a culturally enriching adventure, Jordan is a destination that promises to leave a lasting impression. Our journey was filled with memorable experiences, each offering a glimpse into the soul of this remarkable country. We definitely encourage anyone interested in traveling to Jordan to push forward. The Gate 1 Discovery Tour was an excellent option. We would recommend this destination whether you book through a travel agency or explore on your own.

Author: John

I am an avid traveler. I enjoy adventure travel to explore places that I have read about, to learn about new cultures and to experience new cuisines. Travel is an exceptional teacher. I love to learn through the lens of an epic adventure.