Mukawir, also known as Machaerus, is a striking hilltop fortress that sits high above the Dead Sea. It offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. It was once a grand palace and military stronghold built by Herod the Great in the 1st century BCE. Later, his son Herod Antipas ruled from here and, according to historical accounts, imprisoned and ultimately beheaded John the Baptist at this very site after Salome’s infamous dance (Matthew 14:3-11)
Our Solitude at Mukawir
Our visit to Mukawir was truly unique—there were no other visitors at the site. This created a rare opportunity to explore the ruins in absolute solitude. The silence, interrupted only by the sound of the wind, made it feel as though we had stepped back in time.
Getting to Mukawir
The journey to Mukawir is an adventure in itself. Located about an hour’s drive from Madaba along the scenic King’s Highway, the road winds through rugged terrain before reaching the fortress. The final ascent to the ruins involves a steep but rewarding climb. We trekked up a winding staircase that lead us to the summit.
Exploring the Ruins
Once at the top, we explored the remnants of Herod’s palace, the ancient water cisterns, and the scattered stone foundations of what were once grand halls. Standing at the edge of the ruins, we could see the Dead Sea shimmering in the distance. We could almost make out the faint outlines of Jericho and Jerusalem, but the sky was too overcast that day.
Mukawir is Worth the Trip
Despite its historical significance, Mukawir remains one of Jordan’s less-visited archaeological sites. Unlike more popular locations such as Petra or Jerash, Mukawir has an untouched, almost forgotten aura. It is an exceptional destination for history enthusiasts and those seeking a more intimate experience with Jordan’s past.
Final Thoughts
While facilities at the site are minimal—there are no cafes or large visitor centers—this lack of commercialization only adds to the authenticity of the visit. For those exploring Jordan’s historical sites, Mukawir offers an unforgettable glimpse into the region’s rich and complex history. The site stands as a silent witness to the dramatic events that once unfolded within its walls.
