Our trip to an Embera Village in Panama almost didn’t happen. Checking the CDC, we found misinformation about Malaria and Yellow Fever being widespread outside Panama City and Gatun Lake. Thankfully, locals assured us this was incorrect. So, we asked for a good tour recommendation from one of our new Panamanian friends.
Booking Our Embera Village Adventure
Despite the late notice, we didn’t book through a website. I worried if the tour would happen. However, details arrived the day before our planned tour, our last day in Panama. After a quick WhatsApp message, we received confirmation from Esteban. He would pick us up at our hotel at 8 am. Communication was excellent, even without the benefit of a booking website.
Esteban arrived on time, though traffic made him a bit late. The tour lasted nearly ten hours, including hotel pickup/dropoff times. Esteban emphasized his desire for us to fully immerse in this experience. On this, he certainly succeeded.
On the way to the Embera Village, we made two brief stops. One allowed fellow visitors to buy suitable shoes for the Chagres River waterfall hike. The other stop was at a fruit stand, where Esteban bought a variety of fruits for our journey. We also indulged in local treats. The fruit market sold ice pops made from fresh juice for 75 cents. Passion fruit for me, nance for my wife—both were delicious.
Starting Our Journey Along the Chagres River
At the boat docks, a nearby bathroom area charged fifty cents. We decided to spend the dollar, unsure how long our river trip would be. It wasn’t bad; we could have waited. But paying to use restrooms when traveling abroad is no big deal.
We navigated the river with an exceptional local guide named Eliezer. The rainy season’s start made the river fairly low. The boat struggled in areas, but we reached the third Embera Village in about thirty minutes. There are four villages in total, part of a broader community but also autonomous. All four accept visitors.
Experiencing Puru Biakiru Community
The Deputy Chief greeted us in the main hut, later joined by the Chief, also known as the Noko. They shared their culture’s history, translated by Esteban. While learning, several villagers offered henna-style tribal tattoos. Mine didn’t set well, so consider that if you opt for a tattoo.
After learning about the culture, we enjoyed a local meal of fish. I don’t eat seafood, so fried chicken was substituted. Esteban brought the chicken, knowing my preference. We finished with fresh papaya, pineapple, passion fruit, and watermelon. The fresh fruit was excellent.
Post-dining, we explored nearby stalls offering local art at reasonable prices. We bought a small monkey mask to support the local economy. Esteban then gave us a short village tour and demonstrated using a trapiche to juice sugarcane, which ferments into an alcoholic beverage.
Our Waterfall Adventure
After the village tour, we swam in the Chagres River before heading back downstream. Our return trip included a visit to a local waterfall, requiring an arduous jungle trek. The slippery mud, creek wading, and rock climbing were worth it. The waterfall provided a serene, cool end to a fun-filled day.
Final Thoughts on Our Embera Village Trip
We trekked back to our boat, where Eliezer patiently waited. We finished our downstream ride to the “docks” where we started. By docks, I mean a slick, muddy river bank with sandbags for easier navigation. I’m exaggerating, but there isn’t much infrastructure here. From the docks, we returned to our hotel, exhausted from a full day of adventure. A not-to-be-missed excursion. I wonder how long this opportunity will exist as tribal customs give way to modernization.
Overview of our three-day trip to Panama!