Ancient Hierapolis: A Scenic, Biblical and Historic City

After an amazing visit to the Aegean coast of Turkey, we headed inland toward Hierapolis. It was cold with a light drizzling rain on the day we visited. But the rain and cold did nothing to dampen our excitement. This ancient, Biblical location is as scenic as it is historic.

Trevartines at Hierapolis.

Hierapolis is steeped in history and renowned for its unique combination of natural beauty and historical significance. Nestled near the modern town of Pamukkale, Hierapolis offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient civilizations. The site is a combination of well-preserved ruins and stunning travertine terraces. This extraordinary place is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A Brief History of Hierapolis

Hierapolis, founded in the 2nd century BC by the Attalid kings of Pergamon, was originally a thermal spa and a major center for healing. The city’s name, derived from the Greek word “Hiera” meaning “holy,” reflects its long-standing association with sacred rituals and healing practices. The thermal springs, rich in minerals, have been used for therapeutic purposes since ancient times, attracting people from all over the region.

Map of ancient Hierapolis

The city flourished under Roman rule, becoming an important cultural and religious center. It was known for its grand temples, theaters, and public baths. Hierapolis also became a significant early Christian site, with the Apostle Philip said to have been martyred here. The city continued to prosper until it was devastated by a series of earthquakes, with the final one in the 14th century leading to its abandonment.

Arrival at Hierapolis and the Thermal Pools of Pamukkale

Our journey to Hierapolis began with a breathtaking view of the iconic white travertine terraces of Pamukkale, also known as the “Cotton Castle.” These natural wonders, formed by calcium-rich thermal waters cascading down the hillside, create a stunning landscape of terraces and pools. The sight of the terraces, gleaming in the sunlight, was truly awe-inspiring.

Darker pools at Hierapolis

As we walked along the travertines, we noticed that the water fed one section of the terraces, while another section appeared darker. Our guide explained that the springs are directed to one section due to the amount of water they produce. Because fresh spring water is not filling the other pools, they turn dark over time. I can’t vouch for the accuracy, but I have included a photo of the darker pools.

Visitors dipping their feet into the pools,

Because it was a chilly day, we opted to take photos, while other visitors removed their shoes to enter the pools for photos. The therapeutic properties of the water, rich in minerals, have been cherished for centuries. However, this is more of an iconic photo than a healing spa today. It was amazing to see, but you have to get just the right angle to capture the magic of the white travertines.

Exploring the Ruins of Hierapolis

Entering the ancient city of Hierapolis, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of its ruins. The site is vast, with a variety of structures that tell the story of its illustrious past. We explored the ruins on our own, allowing us to choose the sites we wanted to explore.

HIerapolis Theater

Distant view of Hierapolis Theater.

On of the most prominent features of the site is the Hierapolis Theater. It is one of the best-preserved ancient theaters in Turkey. Built during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, the theater could accommodate up to 15,000 spectators. We began to venture up the steep hill to the theater, but opted to take our photos from a distance, because we wanted to see if we could find an ancient church nearby.

Temple of apollo

Temple of Apollo

Another ruins we visited was the Temple of Apollo, which was central to the city’s religious life. This temple, dedicated to the god of healing and prophecy, was built on a site believed to be an ancient oracle. The remains of the temple, including its columns and altar, still convey a sense of the sacred and the mysterious.

Necropolis of Hierapolis

Remnants of sarcophagi at Necropolis of Hierapolis

The Necropolis of Hierapolis was another memorable aspect of our visit. This extensive cemetery, one of the largest in Turkey, features a wide range of tombs and sarcophagi, reflecting the diverse cultural and religious influences that shaped the city.

Rather than walking through the Necropolis we opted to drive. We had walked quite a bit and it was a chilly day. The rain had also become a bit more steady by the time we were ready to leave. The necropolis led us toward the exit. Near the exit, we got out of our van to take some photos. We were fascinated by the variety of burial styles and the inscriptions that provide insights into the lives of the people who lived here.

Plutonium

We also explored the Plutonium, a religious site dedicated to Pluto, the god of the underworld. This cave was believed to be an entrance to the underworld, and its lethal vapors were used by priests for rituals. The Plutonium is a testament to the deep spiritual and mystical significance of Hierapolis.

Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church

Sign pointing into the wilderness indicating the location of the Church of Saint Philip.

The most memorable site we visited, was the Martyrdom of Saint Philip Church. We almost missed this amazing ruins. It is in the wilderness up a rugged climb from the main section of Hierapolis. I actually asked a local guide about this location, but he told me there was nothing to see and not to bother. I don’t know why this guide lied to me, but my wife and I saw a sign pointing toward the wilderness and ventured out on our own.

Saint Philip's Tomb at Hierapolis

What we found was not “nothing.” In fact, the ruins of the ancient church are still largely visible. The large octagonal church is believed to have been built around the fourth or fifth century. Around 2011, the tomb of Philip was also discovered nearby. The two structures are evident on a sixth-century “bread stamp” lending some provenance to these historic structures. While the remains of Philip were likely removed to Rome centuries ago, it was amazing to walk through these ancient ruins which were largely intact. And we had the ruins to ourselves to explore.

Panoramic view of Church of Saint Philip. Octagon pillars indicate the central area was very large.

The Antique Pool: A Dip in History

Antique Pool

One of the unique experiences Hierapolis offers is a swim in the Antique Pool, also known as Cleopatra’s Pool. This thermal pool, fed by the same mineral-rich waters that flow through Pamukkale, is dotted with ancient marble columns and stones, believed to have fallen during an earthquake. The warm, clear waters are not only relaxing but also rich in minerals. We opted not to swim as it was a cold, rainy day, but there were a few people enjoying the pool.

Reflections on Our Visit

Our visit to Hierapolis was a journey through time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The blend of natural beauty and historical significance makes this site a unique destination for travelers. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of natural wonders, or someone seeking a relaxing retreat, Hierapolis has something to offer.

Southern Byzantine Gate

From the therapeutic waters of Pamukkale’s travertine terraces to the majestic ruins of an ancient city, Hierapolis is a place that captivates the imagination and enriches the soul. Our exploration of this remarkable site was a highlight of our trip to Turkey, leaving us with memories of a truly unforgettable experience.

Pools at Hierapolis

For those planning a visit to Turkey, a trip to Hierapolis and Pamukkale is a must. It’s not just a journey into the past, but an opportunity to experience the healing powers of nature and the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations. The pools are iconic.

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