Tag: Morocco travel reviews

From Souk to Sands: Experiencing the Heart of Rissani Souk

Rissani is a small town at the edge of the Sahara Desert. Before heading into the desert dunes, we visited the local Rissani souk. This market was the least touristy one we visited in Morocco. Although merchants greeted us with scarves, daggers, and fossils, the market catered mainly to locals. It was filled with fresh vegetables, spices, and other essentials for Rissani’s residents.

Horse drawn cart at Rissani Souk

After exploring the Rissani Souk, we were scheduled to visit a mosque before heading into the desert. The wind picked up, so I decided to buy a scarf. Traditional scarves here are indigo. A tall, friendly, and persistent merchant sold me a blue and black scarf for about three or four dollars. He even showed me how to tie it. This scarf proved useful in the windy dunes.

Rissani Gate

Things to see in Rissani:

  • Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Chérif – This mausoleum, rebuilt in 1965, houses the tomb of Moulay Ali Chérif, founder of the Alaouite dynasty. Non-Muslims can explore the Islamic garden but the tomb and mosque are off-limits.
  • Ksar El Fida – Located 4 km northeast of Rissani, this ancient ksar was rebuilt under Moulay Abd al Rahman. It now serves as a museum with free admission, though photography inside is prohibited.
  • Ksar Oulad Abdelhlim – This ksar hosts a bustling souk every Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Visitors can see local medicines, the sheep market, and the bird market.
  • Sijilmasa – On the northwest edge of Rissani, these ruins of a medieval city were the northern point of the trans-Saharan trade route. Recognized as an endangered site, it’s preserved by the Moroccan Ministry of Culture. You might be able to walk there from Rissani.
Scarf merchant at Rissani Souk

The Rissani Souk was a respite from the sun, with reed structures covered by cloth or tarps. Small tables and early morning vendors made up the scene. Wee visited with a couple of dozen vendors, all offering fresh produce and other goods.

Donkey near the market
Goats at nearby animal stalls.
Fresh produce at the market.

The Rissani Souk is centralized in Rissani, making it easy to find. Traveling with a tour group often means missing out on local flavor. Tour groups usually follow the same paths, but this visit felt different. We experienced genuine local life and interactions. The merchants were present, but we could still enjoy the market.

Sheltered area not in use during our visit.

We learned about Rissani and visited local shops in the souk. It was a pleasant experience. Meeting Moroccans was a highlight. Everyone we met was outgoing and friendly. Rissani captured the heart of Morocco (and captured our own hearts) with its small-town charm.

Live poultry at the market.

Rissani offered us a peek into everyday Moroccan life, away from the tourist trails. This small town was a memorable and authentic experience. I hope your visit to Morocco brings similar encounters.

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4×4 Adventures, Camel Rides and a Stunning Desert Sunset

One of the highlights of our trip to Morocco was the chance to ride camels into the dunes and enjoy a stunning Saharan desert sunset. This all-day affair started with a thrilling 4×4 adventure through the desert, meeting nomads, enjoying an oasis lunch, and relaxing at a desert hotel before the grand finale – a camel ride up the dunes to experience a desert sunset.

long shadows cast as we ride camels up the dunes.

The Desert’s Dual Beauty

Morocco’s desert has two distinct looks. The dark, rocky terrain from volcanic remnants contrasts sharply with the reddish-brown dunes. This contrast adds a unique beauty to the landscape, as shown in the photo below.

Contrasting colors in the desert.

The 4×4 Adventure Begins

Our adventure began in Rissani, where our drivers and 4x4s awaited us. We traveled in groups of four, navigating barely visible paths marked with small stone piles. Along the way, we stopped for several photo opportunities, capturing the desert’s stark beauty.

My 4x4 driver in the Moroccan desert.
4x4s stop for photos.
Desert "roads" are barely visible.
Following other 4x4s into our lunch oasis stop.

Oasis Lunch Surprise

Just as we were arriving for lunch, our 4×4 got stuck in a sand dune. While the other drivers helped, we opted to walk the short distance to the oasis. The lunch spot, ornately decorated and complete with restrooms and running water, was a pleasant surprise. We enjoyed grilled chicken and beef, fresh salads, bread, and fruit – a delicious meal for the middle of the desert.

Oasis lunch in the desert.
Small oasis well.

A Glimpse of Nomadic Life

After lunch, we visited a small nomad camp, meeting the family of one of our drivers. His wife was weaving in one tent while his mother, in another larger tent, shared tea and stories with us about nomadic life. It was a humbling experience to see how they lived and to hear their stories.

Nomadic family in the desert.
Nomadic family invited us for tea in their tent.
Part of the nomadic family structures.

Relaxing at the Desert Hotel

Post-nomad camp, we headed to a desert hotel with a swimming pool and bar to await the desert sunset. While some swam, I opted to relax in the air-conditioned bar, enjoying a couple of drinks. This break was a welcome respite before our camel ride into the dunes.

4x4s navigating desert paths
Desert hotel staging area for camel trek into the dunes.

Camel Ride to the Dunes

We then traveled to another location where the camels awaited us. Tied in groups of two or four, we mounted our camels and began our journey. Moroccan camels, smaller than those in Egypt, provided a swaying, dipping ride up to the dunes. Despite their size, the ride was an exciting adventure.

Camels ready for the journey into the dunes.
My new desert friend.

Reaching the Dunes’ Peak

After about half an hour, we dismounted near the top of the dunes and walked the rest of the way. From a ridgeline, we took in the breathtaking scenery, the wind whipping across the dunes. I was glad I had bought a scarf at the Rissani souk to protect my face from the blowing sand.

The camels relax as we dismount to watch the amazing desert sunset.
Sunset on the Moroccan desert dunes.
Protip:

Expensive cameras can be ruined by blowing sand. One of my fellow travelers had a $1000 camera that stopped working due to sand in the aperture. I recommend using a cheap point-and-shoot or a smartphone, but be cautious as sand can damage charging ports.

This day in the Moroccan desert was an unforgettable experience, from the thrill of 4×4 rides to the serene beauty of a Saharan desert sunset on camel back. The journey through the desert showcased the incredible diversity and stunning landscapes of Morocco, making it a highlight of our trip.

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Adventure Awaits: Amazing Stop at the Stunning Todgha Gorge

Traveling from Erfoud to Marrakesh by bus is a long journey. Usually, the trip is split over two days with a stop in Ouarzazate. Even though it was a long bus ride, I didn’t find it boring at all. The journey was surprisingly engaging and filled with beauty. Rather than rushing, we stopped at various places to appreciate Morocco’s beauty, culminating in an amazing stop at Todgha Gorge.

View looking out over river valley near Todgha Gorge.

When we arrived in Tinerhir, we stopped at a high point for a stunning view. The lush valley running through the Sahara took my breath away.

Spring Water flowing at Todgha Gorge

After the scenic overlook, we continued to Todgha Gorge. The limestone canyons were created by the Todgha and Dades rivers. Todgha Gorge was close to Tinerhir, which was on our route to Ouarzazate. The road into the canyon is paved, which made the drive easier. We drove to the most majestic part of the canyon and then walked the last half mile.

View near the spring water river inside the gorge.

The massive canyon walls slowly converge as you walk along the clear, rambling stream. The water was ice-cold in late April. It looked clean enough to drink.

Merchants stalls set up near inside the gorge.

The Todgha Gorge had many locals selling their wares. As a tourist, I didn’t mind people trying to make money. However, I wanted to take in the natural beauty of the place. The merchants were a bit aggressive, which was distracting. I always try to be polite and grateful for the experience while being sincere about whether I am interested in buying something. A polite “no” was not always enough. Eventually, I managed to break free of a couple of aggressive merchants. I then took some great photos of the canyon. Despite the other tourists, I captured some of the natural beauty Morocco offers.

Spring water rippling through the Todgha Gorge

As we approached the end of the pavement, I realized that the stream did not continue further up the valley. It was created by a natural spring beneath our feet. The water was seeping from the ground and rock all around the area. A local woman was gathering water with her daughter near the source of the stream. Further up, it was a bit brackish where the water was not moving. Beyond that area, the canyon narrowed further. That area seemed reserved for horseback or hiking. Unfortunately, we did not have time for that.

A mother and daughter gathering water.

When spending most of the day riding in a bus, stops like Todgha Gorge are a welcome break. We enjoyed the cool air of the gorge, dipped our toes in the crisp water, and marveled at the sheer limestone walls. There are tours centered on hiking or even climbing the gorge. Many climbing routes are marked out in the gorge. It appears to be a nice place to plan for as a destination as much as it was a welcome change of scenery during our trip through the desert. Whether you just stop for a quick visit or spend a day here, the scenery is breathtaking and worth the trip

Goats inside the gorge with a nearby shepherd.

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My Poor Dining Experience at Annexe Yasmina Restaurant

After visiting the stunning Todgha Gorge, we settled back into our bus and headed towards Tinehir, reconnecting with highway N10 on our journey to Ouarzazate. It was lunchtime, so we called ahead to Annexe Yasmina Restaurant to let them know we’d be stopping by. Located just beyond the junction with N10, it was a convenient spot for a large group.

Exterior Yamina Restaurant

Yasmina restaurant’s exterior was somewhat nondescript, with beige walls and interesting off-green metalwork. Large white rose bushes in bloom near the entrance added a pleasant touch. This hinted at the rose country we were about to enter. Upon entering, we were given a limited menu, which is typical for large groups to ensure quick service. The choices included chicken tajine, eggs, skewers, soup, and salad. I opted for the tajine while my wife chose the skewers

Despite the quick order taking, our food was slow to arrive. Several other groups who arrived after us received their meals first. As our dishes were being served, three of us, including myself, were missed completely. We informed the waiter, who assured us it was being taken care of. However, time passed, and the other groups finished their meals and left. Eventually, my food arrived, but by then, the rest of our group had nearly finished eating.

The chicken tajine wasn’t particularly good, and I had to eat quickly so as not to delay our group. I didn’t even finish it all. Wanting to avoid sickness from hastily eaten food, I ate what I could and asked to pay.

Rose bushes outside Yasmina Restaurant

Different cultures handle service issues differently, and while I somewhat expected a discount, I wasn’t counting on it. Instead, the waiter significantly short-changed me on my change. Not wanting to cause a scene, I asked our guide to translate and verify the price. The correct amount matched my calculation, and the waiter begrudgingly corrected the mistake. Whether it was intentional or not, it added insult to injury.

Entrance to Yasmina Restaurant

Looking back, I wish we had chosen a different place. The food was average, the service was terrible, and getting short-changed didn’t help. If you find yourself in Tinehir, there are surely better dining options than Annexe Yasmina Restaurant.

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Ouarzazate’s Hidden Secrets and Our Experience at Kenzi Azghor Hotel

Ouarzazate, famously known as the Hollywood of Morocco, is a popular stopover for bus tours traveling between the Sahara Desert and Marrakesh. This city, with its notable movie studios, provides a glimpse into Morocco’s cinematic charm. However, during our visit, we encountered a less-than-ideal stay at the Kenzi Azghor Hotel.

Kenzi Azghor Hotel Exterior

First Impressions: A Grand Entrance to Kenzi Azghor Hotel

Upon arrival, the Kenzi Azghor Hotel made a favorable first impression. The entrance led to a large courtyard featuring a beautiful fountain and well-maintained landscaping. The lobby, with its high ceiling and comfortable sitting areas, was inviting. As we made our way toward the dining room, we passed the pool area. We stopped to capture a spectacular view of the surrounding scenery. Although the spa and gym were located downstairs, we didn’t have the chance to explore these facilities.

Pool area with scenic views.
Kenzi Azghor hotel lobby area.

Kenzi Azghor Hotel Lacked Comfort and Convenience

Our room, located on the second floor, had a decent view overlooking the courtyard and the distant mountains. However, the positive aspects ended there. The room itself was minimalistic, with furnishings that offered little comfort. The bed was exceptionally hard, making it difficult to sleep. The floor was covered with old, poorly maintained tiles. Additionally, the room felt cramped, leaving little space for our luggage.

Minimalist room with a hard bed.
View of the Kenzi Azghor courtyard from our room.
View from our room.

Kenzi Azghor Hotel Bathroom Required Renovations

The bathroom was one of the most disappointing aspects of our stay. The water temperature was inconsistent, and the fixtures were outdated. The complimentary soap and shampoo were of low quality, and the elevated bathtub/shower setup was inconvenient. Furthermore, the plumbing seemed to be in disrepair.

Bathroom needed updating.

Wi-Fi Woes and Lackluster Breakfast

One of the most frustrating aspects of our stay was the poor wi-fi connectivity. Unlike other hotels where the wi-fi was at least decent in common areas, the Kenzi Azghor Hotel’s wi-fi was practically non-existent throughout the property.

Breakfast, included with our stay, was served in a well-maintained dining room with plenty of seating. However, the food was average at best, and the service was subpar. They ran out of coffee cups, leading to long waits for coffee.

The Kenzi Azghor Hotel has beautiful views of the surrounding area.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the Kenzi Azghor Hotel served its purpose as a stopover on our way to Marrakesh, but it fell short in many aspects. The beautiful exterior and common areas were deceptive, as the rooms were in dire need of renovation. Despite the cleanliness, the lack of comfort and modern amenities made for an unsatisfactory stay. If you find yourself in Ouarzazate, consider exploring other hotel options for a more pleasant experience.

Note: It appears that the Kenzi hotel change initiated major renovations throughout major properties late last year, to include Kenzi Azghor. With that in mind, my experiences are based on a visit prior to these renovations.

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Unveiling the Secrets of Kasbah de Taourirt in Morocco’s Hollywood

Ouarzazate, often referred to as the “Hollywood of Morocco,” is home to the country’s burgeoning film industry. While it may seem like a convenient stopover on the way to Marrakesh from Erfoud, it has hidden gems worth exploring. One such gem is the old Kasbah de Taourirt, a captivating historical site that offers a glimpse into Morocco’s rich cultural heritage.

Entrance sign for Kasbah de Taourirt.

A Morning Visit to Kasbah de Taourirt

First thing in the morning, we visited the Kasbah de Taourirt. Unlike the bustling medinas found in cities like Fez, this kasbah is smaller and lacks a major market. However, it is in fairly decent condition and offers a unique charm. The kasbah, which saw its heyday in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, is a labyrinth of hallways and stairwells leading to plain rooms adorned with ornate engravings and common areas where local artists display their wares.

Old Cannon
Buildings with ornate designs sculpted into the exterior.

An Artistic Haven

The Kasbah de Taourirt is a haven for art lovers. The main items for sale here are artworks, and the prices are incredibly reasonable. I regret not purchasing any art during our visit, opting to wait until we reached Marrakesh. The prices were fantastic, with paintings as cheap as 200 dirham (about twenty US dollars). One large painting of a lady, priced at 1000 dirham, particularly caught my eye. It was a steal considering the quality, comparable to the art I later bought for twice the price.

Artwork at Kasbah de Taourirt
Smaller paintings for sale for the equivalent of fifteen US Dollars.
The galleries at Kasbah de Taourirt adorned the walls throughout the historic structure.
Interesting painting that was among those I was close to purchasing.
Artwork at the kasbah.

Ornate Details and Rich History

Some rooms within the kasbah featured ornate ceilings, while others had verses from the Koran inscribed on the walls. These intricate details offered a stark contrast to the otherwise faded and mildly neglected walls, adding to the kasbah’s unique charm.

Artistic Arabic writing
The Kasbah de Taourirt had ornate Arabic writing inscribed into the architecture.
More Arabic calligraphy.
Interesting design created from Arabic calligraphy.

Guided Tour Through the Maze

We were fortunate to have a local guide lead us through the maze-like structure of the kasbah. In about an hour, he explained the history and significance of the kasbah, making the experience both educational and enjoyable. The tour concluded with a visit to the low-quality but usable restrooms near the entrance—an essential stop before embarking on another lengthy bus trip.

Conclusion

The Kasbah de Taourirt may not be as grand as some of the other historical sites in Morocco, but it offers a unique and enriching experience. Its combination of history, art, and architecture makes it a worthwhile stopover in Ouarzazate. Whether you’re an art enthusiast or a history buff, this kasbah has something to offer. Don’t miss the chance to explore this hidden gem and perhaps even bring home a piece of Moroccan art.

Ouarzazate may be known for its film industry, but the Kasbah de Taourirt stands as a testament to the city’s rich cultural history. Make sure to include it in your itinerary when traveling through this fascinating region of Morocco.

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Goat Trees of Morocco: A Unique Sight on the Road to Essaouira

While traveling from Marrakesh to Essaouira, Morocco, we encountered an unusual and unforgettable sight: goats climbing trees. Not just one goat in one tree, but numerous goats scattered across several trees. Goat Trees. This peculiar scene was once an essential part of argan oil production. However, it now primarily serves as a delightful spectacle for passing tourists.

Goat Trees of Morocco: Goats adorn a small Argan Tree.

The Fascinating Role of Goats in Argan Oil Production

About an hour or two out of Marrakesh, we came across these climbing goats. Historically, these goats played a crucial role in the production of argan oil. Goats are unable to digest the nuts of the argan tree, so they consume the ripe fruit, allowing the nuts to pass through their digestive tracts. This process softened the nuts, making them easier to process into argan oil. However, modern production methods have evolved, and this practice is no longer necessary to meet the high demand for argan oil.

Argan tree with limbs reinforced to support the weight of a dozen goats.

Today, the goats have taken on a different role: creating photo opportunities for tourists. It’s a win-win situation; the goats get to enjoy their favorite treats while tourists capture memorable photos. Shortly after taking these photos, we stopped at an argan cooperative where local women demonstrated how they create various products from the argan nuts, ranging from cooking oil to cosmetics. More on that in a later post.

The Climbing Goats in Action

Once the first goat ascends a tree, the rest of the flock typically follows. These goats are adept at climbing precariously into the branches, where they nibble contentedly. Nearby, the shepherds keep watch, waiting for tourists to snap photos. It’s customary to tip the shepherd, though not mandatory. I gave the shepherd twenty dirhams, about two US dollars, which seemed fair for such a unique experience.

Goat Trees of Morocco: View of goats in a tree from below

Accompanying the shepherd was a young girl carrying a baby goat, offering another photo opportunity. However, she didn’t seem particularly happy about being part of the tourist attraction, so I refrained from taking her photo.

Goat Trees of Morocco: A Unique Experience

While researching, I found claims that goats climb trees in Texas as well, though I couldn’t find any concrete evidence online. Regardless, goats are naturally skilled climbers, and if Moroccan goats can scale trees, it stands to reason that goats elsewhere might too. However, seeing a herd of goats in trees halfway around the world was a special experience.

A dozen goats creating a spectacle atop an Argon tree in Morocco

Goat Trees: Tips for Travelers

If you ever find yourself traveling to Morocco and heading toward the coast where argan trees grow, keep your eyes peeled. Spotting these goat trees is a delightful experience you won’t want to miss. Just remember to tip the shepherd – it’s a small price to pay for such a unique and enjoyable spectacle.

Farmers finding respite from the heat beneath a tree where a few goats have been staged for a photo opportunity.

In summary, the goat trees of Morocco offer a fascinating glimpse into the country’s unique agricultural history and provide a fun, memorable experience for travelers. Don’t miss the chance to witness this charming sight on your next visit to Morocco.

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Hotel Novotel Casablanca: Great Location, Amazing Service

As our two-week tour of Morocco drew to a close, we found ourselves at the Hotel Novotel Casablanca City Center for our final night. Nestled in a bustling business area, this modern hotel provided a blend of European styling and Moroccan hospitality that made our stay both convenient and comfortable.

Exterior of Novotel Hotel Casablanca City Center

Prime Location and Modern Amenities

The Hotel Novotel Casablanca City Center is conveniently located near essential amenities, including a bank and several restaurants, with a small market just a block away. As we stepped into the large lobby, the check-in desk greeted us to the right. The elevators were beside the check-in desk, and the bar and restaurant straight ahead.

A Minor Hiccup with Luggage

Traveling with a sizable tour group, we encountered a slight miscommunication with the bellhops regarding our luggage, which was initially left in the lobby. While we retrieved our bags without any issue, one fellow traveler had to have his luggage replaced due to damage by the hotel staff. The hotel promptly addressed the situation, replacing the damaged bag without hassle.

Cozy and Immaculate Rooms

Our room, though compact, was impeccably clean and designed for convenience. The hotel, appearing newer than some others we stayed at, showed no signs of wear or aging. The room featured a small hallway leading to the main area, a corner-entrance shower, and a separate toilet room to the right as you entered. To the left, a closet, small refrigerator, and safe added to the room’s functionality.

Interior view of Hotel Novotel Casablanca hotel room.
Interior view of casablanca Novotel hotel room. Facing the door with the bed to the left and the angular entrance to the bathroom on the other side of the bed.

Limited View, Maximum Comfort

Our room overlooked the rooftop, offering little in terms of view. The hotel is surrounded by tall buildings typical of a business district. Despite this, the room’s cleanliness and comfort more than made up for it. The bed was softer than those at other hotels we had stayed at during our trip. This provided a much-needed rest on our final night.

View of bathroom at the Hotel Novotel Casablanca City Center standard room.

Dining Options and Early Breakfast

Though we had lunch and dinner by the water—a bit too far to walk from the hotel—guests have several dining options nearby. The hotel’s location makes it easy to find restaurants within a block or two. Most impressively, the hotel went above and beyond by preparing an early breakfast for our group at 4 am, catering to our early departure. This thoughtful gesture was unexpected but greatly appreciated, especially the fresh coffee available at that early hour.

Hotel Novotel Casablanca dining
Novotel Dining Area from the hotel website.

Brief But Pleasant Stay At Hotel Novotel Casablanca

We didn’t spend much time in our room, as we arrived late from touring Casablanca and departed early for the airport. During our brief stay, the WiFi signal was adequate for checking emails. The hotel staff’s friendliness and the cleanliness of the rooms left a lasting positive impression.

Hotel Novotel Casablanca Information

For those considering a stay, the Hotel Novotel Casablanca City Center is located at Angle Zaid Ouhmad, Rue Sidi Belyout, Casablanca 20190, Morocco. You can reach them at +212 5224-66500. Room rates hover around $100, with occasional lower prices available with restrictions.

Final Thoughts On Hotel Novotel Casablanca

Our experience at the Hotel Novotel Casablanca City Center was a fitting end to our Moroccan adventure. The hotel’s convenient location, modern amenities, and exceptional service, especially the early breakfast, made our stay memorable. If you find yourself in Casablanca, this hotel offers a reliable and comfortable option for travelers.

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