Tag: Rabat Travel

Discovering Belere Hotel: A Comfortable Stay in Rabat

On my trip to Morocco, we stayed at six hotels during our two-week tour. Our hotel stays began in Rabat, Morocco’s capital city. The first hotel was the Belere Hotel, ranked #20 of 70 for Rabat on TripAdvisor. Our tour guide met us in the lobby, handed out our keys, and informed us of a meeting on the sixth floor later that evening.

Belere hotel exterior.

Belere Hotel was somewhat basic but had friendly and accommodating staff. The room was a typical size for American travelers—compact but adequate for travel purposes. As expected in many parts of the world, the bed was firmer than those in North American hotels. The room had a small refrigerator, safe, television (which we never used), and a workstation. There were enough outlets for charging our electronics. The air conditioning was off, making the room a bit warm, and there seemed to be a leak as there was a wet spot in the carpet near the doorway.

Room view

The bathroom had some unique features. It included a bidet and a high step up to the tub/shower combination, which might be challenging for shorter or older travelers. Although it wasn’t an issue for us, it is worth noting. My biggest complaint about the hotel room was the poor Wi-Fi signal. It was barely adequate for checking email and was practically useless for anything else. The signal was better in the common areas and, thankfully, free if you could find it.

Front desk area

Breakfast was included with our stay, and we had it twice during our two nights there. The breakfast room was always crowded, making it hard to find a clean table. The food was fresh, with a decent selection of fruits, hot items, salads, and breads, but it frequently ran out and had to be replaced. The staff in the dining area worked hard to keep things clean and stocked. The coffee came from two Nespresso machines that constantly had lines. A carafe of ready-made coffee might be a good idea for large groups to keep things moving.

Rooftop view

The hotel’s location is decent. Several restaurants are located two blocks down the street, and a couple of smaller places are within a block. The Medina is about a twenty-minute walk away, and taxi fares are cheap. The tram is also near the restaurants two blocks away and is fairly easy to navigate. My wife and I took a cab to the waterfront and the train back. Both were surprisingly inexpensive.

Lobby area.

Belere Hotel is priced online under one hundred dollars per night. It is a nice hotel, and at under one hundred dollars is a fair price for what you receive. However, it’s important to manage expectations compared to US hotels. Belere Hotel has friendly staff, felt secure, the rooms were not as tiny as some I have stayed in, it is clean, the Wi-Fi is free if you can get a signal, and the breakfast is good. The location is convenient, with cheap transportation options nearby. I would consider staying at this hotel again but would likely check other options first.

The hotel also indicates that the rooms (89 rooms) have recently been renovated.

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The Chellah Necropolis: Visiting A Historic Rabat Landmark

The Chellah Necropolis, near the heart of Rabat, Morocco, offers a glimpse into centuries of history. Chellah ranks as my top recommended destination in Rabat. Recognized as a World Heritage Site since 2012, Chellah’s historical significance is unmatched.

Drummer at entrance to Chellah Necropolis

As we entered Chellah, a drummer greeted us, blending dance and percussion. School groups were captivated by his performance, dancing along. This lively scene added a festive touch to the otherwise somber necropolis. Despite its abandonment for centuries, Chellah’s ruins stand as a testament to time. It offers high vantage points near the Bouregreg River, making it a haven for nesting storks.

Nesting Storks at Chellah Necropolis

Birds are among the wildlife that inhabits Chellah

History of Chellah Necropolis

Chellah’s history stretches back over two millennia. It traces roots to the Carthaginians and Phoenicians. In the second century, Christians inhabited the area, followed by Romans until the fifth century. Arab Muslims took control in the seventh century. Remnants of a madrasah, mosque, and an ornate minaret still stand, enduring centuries of neglect. An earthquake in the eighteenth century further damaged the site, but walls, tombs, and mausoleums remain scattered throughout.

Burial sites at Chellah
Intact ruins at Chellah

Chellah’s Current Inhabitants

The primary inhabitants of Chellah are storks and numerous cats, reminiscent of Turkey’s cat population. These cats, like those in Turkey, are cared for by the community. Visitors often leave food and water for them. The cats wander freely, adding life to the ancient ruins. One cat even photo-bombed my picture, adding a touch of modernity to the historic site.

Cats at Chellah Necropolis

Eels at Chellah Necropolis

One intriguing feature of Chellah is Le Bassin Aux Anguilles, or the basin of the eels. This small pool, once a ritual bath, now houses eels. An elderly lady allows visitors to feed them for a small donation. Legend says girls seeking husbands find luck by tossing coins into the pool. Many coins gleam at the bottom, attesting to this belief.

Eel Pool at Chellah Necropolis

Admission and Hours

Admission to Chellah Necropolis is 70 dirhams, about seven US dollars. The site is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM. The low admission fee provides access to historically rich ruins and lush gardens. An overlook area offers panoramic views of the river, often used by students for drawing and learning. If you visit Rabat and can only explore one site, make it Chellah. For shopping enthusiasts, the Medina is also a top choice.

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Historic Sites in Rabat: The Mausoleum of Mohammed V

Among the top attractions in Rabat is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. This site is ranked #3 on TripAdvisor’s list of 10 Best Things To Do In Rabat. Just across the courtyard is Hassan Tower, ranked #5. Together, they create a captivating visit that takes less than an hour to visit.

Entrance to Mausoleum of Mohammad V.
Mausoleum of Mohammad V

The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is on Yacoub al-Mansour Esplanade in Rabat, adjacent to Avenue Tour Hassan. Both entrances to the sprawling courtyard are guarded by mounted Moroccan Royal Guards in ornate red uniforms. Inside, guards also protect each of the four entrances and the interior corners of the mausoleum.

Morrocan Royal Guard
Royal Guard inside the Mausoleum of Mohammad V.

Visitors climb a set of stairs to enter the Mausoleum on the upper level. From here, you can look down at the large tomb of Mohammed V, centered on the floor below and surrounded by Moroccan flags. Two additional tombs of his sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah, rest on the lower floor. The mausoleum is a stunning Alaouite structure with a striking white exterior, green roof, and lavishly decorated interior.

Columns marking location of a mosque that was not completed in the twelfth century.

Between the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower lies a large plaza filled with cylindrical columns. These columns were intended to support a massive mosque begun by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour in the late twelfth century. Hassan Tower was meant to be the world’s largest minaret at nearly 300 feet. However, the Sultan’s death halted construction, leaving the tower at half its intended height.

Hassan Tower

The Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower are free to visit. Restrooms and vendors selling small trinkets and food are located near the far entrance. As we were leaving, we caught the changing of the guard for the mounted Palace Guard, a perfect end to our visit.

Changing of the Royal Guard
Changing of the Royal Guard at the Mausoleum of Mohammed V

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Exploring the Kasbah of the Udayas: Rabat’s Scenic Fort

A Historical Gem

The Kasbah of the Udayas (Casbah des Oudaias) is a waterfront focal point of Rabat, located off Rue de Consuls along the Bouregreg River. First built during the Almoravid Dynasty, the kasbah was later rebuilt by the Almohad Caliphate in the mid-twelfth century. The kasbah was deserted at the end of the twelfth century but is now a bustling hive of activity.

Kasbah of Udayas

A Walk Through History

We entered the kasbah at the higher elevation of the fortress, greeted by narrow walkways adorned in blue and white. Vendors and shops lined our path as we made our way to the stunning shoreline vantage point. From there, we navigated through another series of alleyways to the lower section of the kasbah, featuring a lush garden. The kasbah offers an exceptional view of the surrounding region, making it the perfect spot for a fortification.

Blue and white accents through the Udaya Kasbah

A Unique Experience

Exterior of Kasbah of the Udayas

The Kasbah of the Udayas, inhabited for centuries by sultans and refugees, also houses Rabat’s oldest mosque. The merchants near the entrance and walkways were laid-back, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. The colorful blue and white hues gave the kasbah a Mediterranean feel, enhanced by the nearby waterfront view.

View from ramparts at Kasbah of Udayas.

The lower entrance’s lush gardens were immaculately tended. Despite the tempting tea service in the outdoor seating, we continued our exploration due to the heat. The Kasbah of the Udayas is a must-see in Rabat, offering rich history and breathtaking views.

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What to See and Do in Historic Rabat Medina

Introduction to the Rabat Medina

To understand the Rabat Medina, I will begin by defining the term medina. The essence of Moroccan history can be felt in the old quarters of its cities. These areas, called Medinas, translate as “city.” Medinas are vibrant hubs with fresh produce, textiles, crafts, clothing, and restaurants. They offer visitors an experience that appeals to all senses. The smell of barbecued meat, the rich colors of fresh produce, and the cacophony of trade. The taste of freshly squeezed juice and rich textures are also experiences to behold. While they are a tourist’s dream, most trade in the Medinas is conducted by locals.

Rabat's medina

Rabat’s Unique Medina

Each Medina has its own character. The Rabat Medina has wider alleyways than Fez, laid out in a navigable grid. Generally, traffic in the Medina is restricted to foot traffic, though we occasionally encountered motor scooters. In Rabat, there was some vehicle traffic beyond the construction, but it was in an area without shops. Navigating the Rabat Medina was very easy. As the first Medina we visited, we had no comparison, but in retrospect, it was the smallest.

Looking down over one of Rabat Medina's alleyways
An elevated view of the Rabat Medina

Sensory Delights

The smell of food in the Rabat Medina was powerful. The tram side of the Medina had the most traffic. There were a few classy restaurants along the main road, but we chose a small restaurant inside the Medina. It had chicken shawarma roasting on a spit, and we both opted for the shawarma sandwich. The sandwiches were served with hand-cut, crisp, and fresh French fries. The shawarma was on a tortilla, pressed like a panini. It was served with harissa sauce, adding a tasty fire to the sandwich. The bill came to around five dollars with the tip. Incredible! The restaurant was very clean and had a great rooftop view.

Exploring Local Shops

Old school pay phone

Walking around the Rabat Medina, we noticed phone stores among the shops. They seemed to offer “top-up” cards, SIM cards, and prepaid phones. Some appeared to do repairs as well. The throwback advertising in these shops was interesting. We also noticed art shops with paintings depicting local scenes. One painting that caught my eye was of the horsemanship contest known as Fantasia. Although I did not buy it in Rabat, I eventually purchased a blue version in Essaouira.

Fantasia painting. I purchased one similar to this in Essouira
Painting of a small building in a mountainous area.

Relaxing in a Coffee Shop

After navigating the Rabat Medina, we took a break in a coffee shop. We noticed there were no women in the cafe except my wife. It seemed cafes were gathering places for men. After coffee, mint tea, and water, we ventured back out. We headed to the Bouregreg Marina for a stroll before returning to our hotel. The Medina was a fun place to explore. Ranked as the #7 place to visit in Rabat according to TripAdvisor, it is a must-see. Despite being touristy, it is also frequented by locals, giving visitors a true feel of Rabat.

Coffee and mint tea in a Rabat coffee shop. Surprisingly, the tea was not packed with fresh mint as we found in other areas of Morocco.
Another view of the coffee shop from inside.

Historical Insights into the Rabat Medina

The Rabat Medina is a historic quarter that dates back to the 12th century. It was established by the Almohad dynasty and later expanded by the Merenids in the 13th century. The Medina was strategically positioned near the Bouregreg River, facilitating trade and defense. Its well-preserved Andalusian architecture, narrow streets, and vibrant markets reflect a blend of Arab, Berber, and Andalusian influences. The Medina is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses the entire city of Rabat, recognized for its historical and cultural significance.

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