Historic Troy: A Journey Through The Ancient Ruins

A Brief History of Troy

Troy, an ancient city shrouded in myth and legend, has captivated historians, archaeologists, and travelers for centuries. Located in what is now modern-day Turkey, near the town of Hisarlik, Troy’s history spans several millennia, blending mythological tales with historical facts. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We stopped to visit this site on our way to our overnight stop at the Kolin Hotel in Canakkale.

Trojan Horse replica at Troy Ruins. Turkish Museum photo.

The Mythological Tale

The story of Troy is most famously depicted in Homer’s epic poems, the Iliad and the Odyssey. According to legend, Troy was the site of the Trojan War. Legend says the war was sparked by the abduction of Helen, the wife of the Spartan king Menelaus, by Paris, a Trojan prince. The ensuing war between the Greeks and the Trojans is highlighted by the cunning use of the Trojan Horse. The war ended with the city’s destruction. The exact historical accuracy of Homer’s account is debated. However, the legend of Troy remains a cornerstone of Western literature and mythology.

The Archaeological History

Marker depicting the various eras of Troy's inhabitants.

The ruins of Troy were rediscovered in the 19th century by Heinrich Schliemann, a German archaeologist. Early excavations revealed multiple layers of ancient cities built on top of one another. These layers, identified as Troy I through Troy IX, indicate that the site was continuously inhabited from the Early Bronze Age (around 3000 BCE) to the Byzantine period (around 500 CE). Each layer represents a different era in Troy’s history, reflecting the city’s evolution and the various cultures that influenced it over time.

Visiting the Troy Ruins

Partial reconstruction of Troy II mud brick walls.

Walking through the ruins is like stepping back in time. The archaeological site offers a glimpse into the ancient world, with remnants of city walls, gateways, and buildings that tell the story of a civilization that thrived for thousands of years. It was interesting to see the layers of different inhabitants over the centuries that this site was occupied.

Key Highlights of the Site

Wall ruins at Troy

The Walls of Troy: The massive stone walls, some of which date back to the time of the Trojan War (Troy VI and VII), are among the most impressive features of the site. These fortifications highlight the city’s strategic importance and the need for defense against invaders.

    Ramp at Scaean Gate

    The Scaean Gate: One of the main entrances to the city, the Scaean Gate, is often associated with the tales of the Trojan War. Standing before it, one can imagine the great warriors and events that once took place here.

    Troy Ruins

    The Sanctuary of Athena: This religious site, dedicated to the goddess Athena, underscores the cultural and religious significance of Troy. It offers insight into the spiritual life of the Trojans.

    Roman Odeon at Troy

    The Roman Odeon and Bouleuterion: These structures, from the Roman period, illustrate the city’s continued importance and adaptation under Roman rule. The Odeon was used for musical performances, while the Bouleuterion served as a council house.

    The Trojan Horse Replica: Although not an ancient artifact, the wooden horse at the site serves as a nod to the legendary tale. Visitors can climb inside for a panoramic view of the ruins.

      Practical Information for Visitors

      • Location: The Troy ruins are located near the town of Hisarlik in northwestern Turkey, about 30 kilometers south of Canakkale.
      • Hours and Admission: The site is open daily, with varying hours depending on the season. It’s advisable to check current opening times and ticket prices before planning your visit.
      • Guided Tours: To fully appreciate the historical and archaeological significance of Troy, consider joining a guided tour. Knowledgeable guides can provide detailed explanations and bring the ancient stories to life.
      • Pro Tip: Wear good, comfortable shoes. The ruins meander around several notable historic ruins, as noted above. There was a bit of rain the day we visited, which created some slick surfaces. So be prepared for a bit of walking and a few slippery spots.

      Conclusion

      Visiting the ruins is a profound experience that bridges the gap between myth and history. As you explore the ancient site, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the stories that have shaped our understanding of the past. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a fan of mythology, or simply a curious traveler, Troy offers a unique journey through time that is both educational and inspiring.

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      Istanbul’s Historic Spice Bazaar: Exploring The Flavors of Turkey

      On our fourth day in Turkey, we visited the Istanbul spice bazaar before driving to Canakkale. The Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Market) is nearly 400 years old. We pulled up in front of the vibrant Istanbul sign adjacent to the market to disembark. I was sure to snap a few photos of the bright red sign before heading to the nearby market.

      Istanbul sign adjacent to the spice bazaar

      As we entered the market, we passed through a cursory security checkpoint. The checkpoint consisted of little more than a magnetometer and a security guard. Misir Carsisi, also known as the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is a living testament to the city’s rich history and cultural heritage. This bustling market, renowned for its aromatic spices, exotic teas, and colorful confections, has been a cornerstone of Istanbul’s trade and commerce for centuries.

      Entrance to Misir Carsisi spice bazaar

      Origins and Construction of the Spice Bazaar

      The Misir Carsisi was commissioned by Sultan Turhan Hatice, the mother of Sultan Mehmed IV, in the 1660s. It was built as part of the Yeni Mosque complex in the Eminönü district, a key commercial hub of the Ottoman Empire. The bazaar’s construction was funded by taxes collected from Cairo, which is why it is often referred to as the Egyptian Bazaar.

      Architectural Splendor

      Designed by the famous Ottoman architect Kazım Ağa, the Misir Carsisi features a distinctive L-shaped layout. The market boasts a series of interconnected vaulted chambers, each lined with shops that have been family-run for generations. The architectural design not only adds to the bazaar’s charm but also enhances the aromatic experience, as the vaulted ceilings trap and mix the enticing scents of spices and herbs.

      A Hub of Trade and Culture

      Throughout its history, the Misir Carsisi has been a vital trading center. Merchants from across the world, including Europe, Asia, and Africa, would gather here to trade spices, textiles, and other valuable goods. The bazaar’s strategic location near the Golden Horn allowed for easy access to maritime trade routes, solidifying its status as a global trading hub.

      The Spice Bazaar Today

      Walking through the bazaar, one can still sense the echoes of the past, where each stall and corner tells a story of the diverse cultures and traditions that have shaped this historic market. Merchants are eager to invite visitors in to sample apple tea or a wide variety of Turkish delight. The Market has a Long main hall that extends from the plaza entrance. A shorter hall crosses the main hall near the far end of the hall.

      Impression of the Spice Bazaar

      There are nearly one hundred shops in the bazaar. However, the shops are very similar to one another. The offerings included spices, teas, turkish delight, other sweet treats, jewelry, nuts and souvenirs. As this was still early in our trip, we did not purchase any gifts. However, with a long drive ahead, we did purchase some roasted nuts. The nuts were exceptional. The roasting process must be significantly different from our own, as the results were better than what we are accustomed to.

      To the left of the building, down a long ramp, are a set of public restrooms. My recollection was that the restroom fee was equivalent to about five cents. The restrooms were large and clean. We were able to get in and out quickly. Knowing we would be on the bus for a while, this was a welcome stop before we departed.

      The Misir Carsisi is more than just a market; it is a journey through time, offering a glimpse into the soul of Istanbul. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a culinary adventurer, or a curious traveler, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar promises an unforgettable experience filled with the flavors and fragrances of a bygone era.

      Topkapi Palace: The Splendor Of Istanbul’s Ottoman Era

      On our recent trip to Istanbul, my wife and I explored the magnificent Topkapi Palace. This iconic palace, built in the 15th century, served as the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for over 400 years.

      Visiting Topkapi Palace

      We began our tour of the Sultanahmet District early to avoid the crowds. This included a visit to the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. The palace grounds, filled with lush gardens and intricate architecture, immediately captivated us. The sprawling complex includes several courtyards, each with its own unique charm and historical significance.

      Imperial Gate at Topkapi Palace

      Our first stop was the Imperial Gate, the grand entrance to the palace. The ornate design and imposing structure set the tone for our visit. As we passed through, we marveled at the detailed carvings and the sense of grandeur.

      Hagia Irene

      The First Courtyard

      Next, we entered the first courtyard, known as the Court of the Janissaries. This area once housed the elite guards of the palace. The courtyard’s open space and well-maintained gardens provided a serene environment, perfect for a leisurely stroll. Here, visitors can find the church that predates the Hagia Sophia by 200 years. The Hagia Irene.

      Gate of Salutation

      The Second Courtyard

      In the second courtyard, we found the Palace Kitchens and the Imperial Council Chamber. The kitchens, now a museum, displayed an impressive collection of porcelain, silverware, and kitchen utensils used by the palace staff. The Imperial Council Chamber, where important state decisions were made, featured stunning Ottoman architecture and decor.

      The Third Courtyard

      The third courtyard, or the Inner Palace, housed the sultan’s private quarters and the Harem. The Harem, a secluded part of the palace, offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the sultan’s family and concubines. The lavishly decorated rooms and intricate tile work left us in awe.

      Staff attributed to Moses.

      Most impressive in the third courtyard were the museum relics found in the private chambers. While the provenance of these relics is specious, at best, they offer a glimpse into Turkey’s rich religious history. Among the purported artifacts are Moses’ Staff, Abraham’s Pot, Joseph’s Turban, David’s Sword and relics belonging to John the Baptist.

      Fragment purported to be part of John the Baptist's arm.
      Stone pot attributed to Abraham along with drapes belonging to various prophets.

      We also visited the Treasury, located within the third courtyard. The Treasury’s collection of jewels, gold, and artifacts was breathtaking. Among the highlights were the Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond, two of the world’s most famous and valuable pieces.

      View of the Bosphorus from the Fourth Courtyard at Topkapi Palace.

      The Fourth Courtyard

      The fourth courtyard, known as the Tulip Garden, provided stunning views of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. This peaceful garden, filled with colorful flowers and fountains, was a perfect spot to relax and take in the beauty of the palace.

      Throughout our visit, we admired the rich history and architectural splendor of Topkapi Palace. Each courtyard and building offered a unique perspective on the opulence and power of the Ottoman Empire.

      Final Thoughts

      Our visit to Topkapi Palace was an excellent way to cap off our first day in Turkey. The palace’s grandeur and historical significance make it a must-see destination in Istanbul. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, Topkapi Palace offers a fascinating journey into the heart of the Ottoman Empire. The palace is open Wednesday through Monday from 9am until 6pm.

      Istanbul Hippodrome: The Chariot Version of Nascar

      During our trip to Istanbul, my wife and I visited the historic Istanbul Hippodrome, an ancient arena filled with fascinating remnants of the past. This significant site, located in the Sultanahmet district, offers a glimpse into the rich history of Istanbul and the grandeur of the Byzantine Empire.

      Sunltanahmet Square lays on top of the Istanbul Hippodrome.

      We started our tour early in the morning to avoid the crowds and fully immerse ourselves in the experience. The Hippodrome, originally built in the 3rd century AD by Emperor Septimius Severus and later expanded by Constantine the Great, once hosted chariot races, gladiatorial games, and other public events. Although much of the original structure is gone, several impressive monuments remain. The original track is indicated by pavers, with the original track “buried” six feet below.

      Obelisk of Theodosius located within the Istanbul Hippodrome

      The most notable landmark at the Istanbul Hippodrome is the Obelisk of Theodosius, a towering monument transported from Egypt in the 4th century AD. The obelisk is adorned with intricate carvings that depict scenes from ancient Egypt. Standing before this ancient stone, we marveled at its impressive state of preservation and the stories it tells of a bygone era.

      Because the current plaza is elevated from the original Hippodrome level, the lower portion of the obelisk has been walled in so visitors can see the ornate base. There is also a marker, dating the erection of this obelisk in 390 AD. Looking at the size of this massive stone monument, I couldn’t help but wonder the effort that went into moving this stone from Egypt sixteen centuries ago.

      As we walked through the Istanbul Hippodrome, we could almost hear the echoes of the chariots racing and the cheers of the crowds. The crowds are said to have numbered 100,000. The site, now a public square known as Sultanahmet Meydanı (square), still carries the energy and spirit of its vibrant past. We took our time, absorbing the historical significance and imagining the grand events that once took place here.

      Our visit to the Istanbul Hippodrome was a captivating experience that enriched our understanding of Istanbul’s layered history. It doesn’t take very long to visit, so we started here early before stopping at the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. This ancient arena, with its surviving monuments and storied past, is a must-see for anyone visiting the city. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, the Hippodrome offers a fascinating glimpse into the grandeur and cultural heritage of ancient Byzantium.

      Exploring the Magnificence of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul

      On our recent trip to Istanbul, my wife and I had the opportunity to visit one of the city’s most iconic landmarks: Hagia Sophia. This historic architectural marvel stands as a testament to Istanbul’s rich cultural and religious history, captivating visitors with its grandeur and intricate beauty. Our trip started with a visit to the Hippodrome, followed by the Blue Mosque. From the Blue Mosque, we walked about five minutes down the scenic promenade to the plaza adjacent to the Hagia Sophia.

      Hagia Sophia

      Luckily, there were restrooms located near the plaza, allowing us to take a quick restroom stop before joining a very long queue to enter the Hagia Sophia. The line stretched from the entrance, which was to our left as we approached, all the way around the plaza to our right. After a quick freshen up, we joined the queue. The wait, including a cursory security check, was less than an hour. It was worth the wait.

      A Brief History of Hagia Sophia

      Hagia Sophia, originally built as a cathedral by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in 537 AD, has undergone several transformations over the centuries. Following the Ottoman conquest in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II converted it into a mosque. In 1935, it was secularized and opened as a museum by the Republic of Turkey. Most recently, in 2020, it was reconverted into a mosque. Despite these changes, Hagia Sophia remains a symbol of the diverse cultural and religious heritage of Istanbul.

      I had mixed feeling about this, as the recent conversion to a mosque meant that they covered up much of the Christian iconography within the structure. With that in mind, I was relieved that some of the art outside the actual sanctuary was still intact. I was also relieved that they did not destroy the art inside the sanctuary, opting to cover it up instead.

      First Impressions and Entrance

      Exterior of Hagia Sophia where remnants of an earlier church can be seen.

      After clearing security, we stopped outside the building to observe some of the remnants from the church that previously occupied the site, the second of three. The first was built between 337 and 361 by Eudoxius of Antioch, making it among the old and grandest churches in Christian history.

      Hagia Sophia Interior: A Blend of Art and Architecture

      Christian art over one of the portals.

      Shoes may be worn into the outer hallway, just inside the main entrance. Christian art still adorns the arch of the entrance. The hallway serves as an area to remove and store shoes prior to entering the carpeted sanctuary.

      The amazing Dome inside Hagia Sophia. The curtains in the middle obstruct the view of a painting of Virgin Mary. Two angel paintings are visible in the upper left and right of the photo.

      Stepping inside, we were immediately awestruck by the vast, open space and the towering dome that seemed to float above us. The interior of Hagia Sophia is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, with a harmonious blend of Christian iconography and Islamic calligraphy. The original Christian mosaics, depicting Christ, the Virgin Mary, and various saints, coexist with large medallions inscribed with the names of Allah and the Prophet Muhammad. The Christian art is obscured by large drapes, and angels at the four corners of the sanctuary have been altered a bit, but otherwise, they are still visible to visitors.

      One of the most impressive features is the central dome, which rises nearly 180 feet above the floor. The dome is adorned with golden mosaics that catch the light streaming in through the windows, creating a celestial glow that adds to the mystical ambiance of the space. The massive marble pillars and intricately designed arches further enhance the architectural splendor of Hagia Sophia.

      A Place of Worship and Reflection

      Despite its transformation into a mosque, Hagia Sophia remains open to visitors of all faiths and backgrounds. The serene atmosphere and the sheer magnificence of the architecture make it a place of contemplation and reflection. We were fortunate to visit during a quiet time, allowing us to fully appreciate the spiritual and historical significance of this iconic structure.

      Practical Information for Visitors

      More Christian art visible above the doorway entrance to the main chapel/mosque.

      Hagia Sophia is open to visitors daily, with specific hours designated for prayer. Hours of operation begin at 9am and run until 7:30 pm, with the exception of periods set aside for prayer. Modest dress is required, and women are asked to cover their heads. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated to help with the preservation of this historic site.

      Conclusion

      Our visit to Hagia Sophia was a highlight of our trip to Istanbul. The architectural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual ambiance of this magnificent structure left a lasting impression on us. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, Hagia Sophia is a must-visit destination that will leave you in awe of its timeless splendor.

      Blue Mosque: An Inspiring Journey Through History and Architecture

      My wife and I arrived for our two week tour to Turkey late in the evening. We spent the night at our hotel, the Millennium Golden Horn Hotel in Istanbul. After getting a good night’s rest, we ventured out in the morning to visit the first attraction on our tour, the Blue Mosque.

      Blue Mosque washing area

      This iconic mosque was built at the turn of the seventeenth century (1609-1617). We were told a story (urban legend) about the mosque that was somewhat amusing. Sultan Ahmet I built the mosque to rival the nearby Hagia Sophia. His ambition was for the mosque to have golden minarets. The architect, Sedefkar Mehmet Ağa, misunderstood the word altin (golden) for alti (six), leading to the six minarets rather than golden minarets. Even though likely not true, I thought it was a fun story to share.

      The Blue Mosque is an active mosque. As such, modest in dress and head coverings for females are requested. Visitors must also remove their shoes upon entering. As we approached the entrance, there was a ritual washing area with ample faucets for observers coming for worship.

      Interior of the Blue Mosque

      After removing our shoes, we entered the massive mosque. There was a small area for storing shoes near the entrance. The elaborate tile work throughout the mosque was incredible. While I was expecting a bit more in the hue of blue, the attention to detail in the tiles was intricate. The massive structure was even more impressive considering that it was built more than four hundred years ago!

      The Central dome was ornate and impressive. It was smaller than the Hagia Sophia and supported by four archways providing direct support for the dome. While not as old or massive as Hagia Sophia, it is nonetheless impressive. The intricacy of the tiling, colors and designs give it a distinct character that can’t really be compared. We left very impressed.

      Interior of Blue Mosque.

      After returning to the entrance to retrieve our shoes, we exited to a small courtyard where we shod ourselves to continue our exploration of the nearby Hagia Sophia. While I was impressed by the Blue Mosque, I think the Hagia Sophia was far more impressive. With that said, this mosque stands as an impressive example of Ottoman Architecture. I would recommend a visit to both of these amazing historic structures.

      The Blue Mosque is open from 9am until 6pm. As an active mosque, prayers are observed five times per day. Visitors are not permitted to enter during scheduled prayer times. However, visitors are permitted to pray during their visit, even if not during prayer times.

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