Culture, History, Religion: Fascinating Geghard Monastery

During my travels in Armenia, I visited the awe-inspiring Geghard Monastery, an ancient complex carved into the cliffs of the Azat River Gorge. Known for its remarkable architecture and deep spiritual significance, Geghard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that left a lasting impression on me.

Stone cross at Geghard Monastery

Geghard Monastery Carved from Stone

Geghard Monastery, founded in the 4th century, is renowned for its rock-hewn churches and chapels. As I approached the monastery, its stone-carved facade seemed to emerge from the mountainside itself, blending perfectly with the rugged natural surroundings. The setting, surrounded by towering cliffs and lush greenery, created a serene and almost mystical atmosphere.

Hallway carved into the rock

The complex includes various churches and tombs, many of which are entirely cut into the rock. The main chapel, built in the 13th century, stands at the heart of the monastery, but it’s the subterranean chambers, with their dark, echoing interiors, that make Geghard truly unique. The dimly lit rooms, adorned with centuries-old carvings and crosses, made me feel as though I had stepped back into an ancient world of devotion and mystery.

Main chapel at Geghard Monastery

The Holy Spear and the Sacred Past

Geghard is also famous for its historical and religious significance. According to tradition, the monastery once housed the Holy Spear, believed to be the lance that pierced Jesus’ side during the Crucifixion. While the original spear is now kept in the Echmiadzin Cathedral, the monastery’s name, “Geghardavank,” meaning “Monastery of the Spear,” reflects this sacred connection. Walking through the monastery, I could sense the deep reverence that this place has held for pilgrims over the centuries.

Crosses carved into the stone walls

A Peaceful Sanctuary

The peacefulness of Geghard was one of the most striking aspects of my visit. The sound of water trickling from the natural springs around the site, combined with the echo of ancient prayers still resonating within the stone walls, created an atmosphere of tranquility. I took a moment to light a candle and reflect in one of the small chapels, feeling a profound sense of calm amidst the weight of history.

A blend of natural and man-made elements at Geghard Monastery

A Blend of Nature and Spirituality

As I explored the monastery grounds, the harmonious blend of nature and architecture stood out. The towering cliffs surrounding Geghard seem to guard the sacred space, and the simple beauty of the ancient structures contrasted with the rugged landscape. The monastery’s connection to the surrounding nature gave it a spiritual depth, as if the mountains themselves were a part of the monastery’s story.

Mountains surrounding Geghard Monastery

Final Thoughts on Geghard Monastery

Visiting Geghard Monastery was an unforgettable experience. Its unique architecture, deep historical roots, and peaceful atmosphere made it one of the most memorable stops on my journey through Armenia. For anyone seeking a blend of natural beauty, history, and spirituality, Geghard is a must-see. The monastery offers a chance to step into Armenia’s ancient past while connecting with the serene spirit that still lives within its stone walls.

Discovering the Birthplace of the Olympics: Ancient Olympia

Our journey through Greece led us to the legendary site of Olympia, the birthplace of the Olympic Games. It is a place that holds immense historical and cultural significance. Walking through the ruins of this ancient sanctuary, we could feel the echoes of the past. Athletes from across the Greek world once gathered here to compete. Olympia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Olympia ruins.

A Walk Through History: Entering the Sacred Grounds

As we approached the archaeological site, the grandeur of Olympia began to unfold. The site, nestled in a lush valley, is surrounded by olive trees and rolling hills, creating a serene atmosphere that felt almost timeless. The Alpheios River flowed nearby, adding to the sense of tranquility that enveloped the area.

I believe this was the Gymnasium at Olympia

Our exploration began at the entrance to the sanctuary, where we were greeted by the remnants of the ancient gymnasium and palaestra. These structures, once used by athletes for training and preparation, provided a glimpse into the rigorous physical conditioning that was central to Greek culture. It was fascinating to imagine the athletes of antiquity honing their skills in these very spaces.

The Temple of Zeus: A Monument to the King of the Gods

As we moved deeper into the site, we reached the Temple of Zeus, one of the most important monuments in Olympia. Although only a few columns remain standing, the sheer scale of the ruins hinted at the temple’s former magnificence. This was once the home of the Statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Created by the sculptor Phidias, the statue stood over 40 feet tall, depicting Zeus seated on a throne, adorned with gold and ivory.

Remnants of the Temple of Zeus

Standing in the shadow of the temple ruins, we marveled at the engineering and artistry that went into constructing such a monumental structure. The temple was a focal point of worship, where athletes and spectators alike would have paid homage to Zeus, seeking his favor before the games.

The Stadium: Where Legends Were Made

Next, we made our way to the ancient stadium, the very heart of Olympia. The stadium, with its long track and grassy slopes, was where the Olympic Games took place for over a thousand years. Standing at the starting line, we couldn’t help but feel a connection to the athletes who once competed here. The stadium was flat and simple, and its absence of grandstands highlighted the purity and spirit of the ancient games.

Track at Olympia ruins.
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Walking across the stadium, we could almost hear the cheers of the crowd and the pounding of feet. Possibly because we ran our own “race” and were cheering each other on. It was easy to imagine the excitement and intensity of the competitions, where victory was not just a personal achievement but an honor for one’s city-state.

The Philippeion and the Echoes of Power

Our visit also included the Philippeion, a circular monument dedicated to Philip II of Macedon and his family. This elegant structure, with its columns and sculpted decorations, was a reminder of the political and cultural influence that Olympia held beyond the athletic competitions. The site was not just a place of sport but also a center for diplomacy, where alliances were forged.

Philippeion at Olympia

Reflections on Our Visit

Visiting the archaeological site of Olympia was a profound experience that connected us to the roots of the Olympic Games. We also felt connected to the rich cultural heritage of ancient Greece. The ruins, though weathered by time, still conveyed the spirit of competition, devotion, and excellence that defined this sacred site.

Olympia ruins

We left Olympia with a deep appreciation for the ancient Greeks’ dedication to physical and intellectual pursuits. Their ability to create a historic legacy has endured for millennia. For anyone passionate about history, sports, or Greek culture, a visit to Olympia is an unforgettable journey into the past. The echoes of ancient athletes still resonate here.

Read more about our Two-Week Tour of Greece!

Sunrise Splendor: Angkor’s Ancient Temples in a Half-Day

Our half-day sunrise tour of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, and Bayon Temple was a breathtaking journey into the heart of Cambodia’s ancient history. The adventure began before dawn, as we made our way through the quiet, dark streets of Siem Reap, guided by the anticipation of witnessing the sunrise over the iconic Angkor Wat. Our first stop was the ticket office to purchase our admission tickets to the ruins.

Angkor Wat at sunrise

Exploring Angkor Wat

As we arrived at Angkor Wat, the air was cool, and the sky was just beginning to lighten. The silhouette of the temple against the gradually brightening sky was a sight to behold. We found a spot by the reflecting pool, and as the first rays of sunlight broke through, the temple’s majestic towers were bathed in a golden hue, mirrored perfectly in the still water. It was a serene moment, filled with the awe of standing before one of the world’s most famous landmarks.

Structure inside the Angkor Wat complex.

After the sunrise, our guide led us through the intricate corridors and towering structures of Angkor Wat, sharing stories of its history, architecture, and spiritual significance. The detailed carvings, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology and Khmer history, were fascinating to explore up close.

Angkor Thom

The Many Faces of Angkor Thom

After stopping for breakfast, we ventured to Angkor Thom, the last capital of the Khmer Empire. Entering through the grand South Gate, we were greeted by the massive stone faces that guard the entrance, a prelude to the incredible Bayon Temple within. Bayon, with its 54 towers adorned with 216 smiling faces, was an enigmatic marvel. Each face seemed to carry a different expression, watching over the once-great city with serene grace.

Ta Prohm where Tomb Raider was filmed

Tomb Raider Vibes at Ta Prohm

Our tour continued to Ta Prohm, famously known as the “Tomb Raider Temple” due to its appearance in the film. Unlike the other temples, Ta Prohm has been left largely as it was found, with massive trees growing out of the ruins, their roots intertwining with the ancient stone. The juxtaposition of nature and architecture was hauntingly beautiful, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere.

Bayon Temple

As the morning drew to a close, we returned to Bayon Temple, where we spent our final moments marveling at the unique blend of spirituality and artistry. The intricate bas-reliefs, depicting everyday life in the Khmer Empire, added depth to our understanding of the culture that once thrived here.

Monkey at Bayon Temple

Aside from the amazing architecture of these ancient temple complexes, we were also amused by the abundance of monkeys at the ruins. They were ubiquitous. At one point, I stopped to sit on the large stones outside the Bayon Temple. My wife started pointing to alert me. I turned to find a monkey directly behind me. The monkey was harmless, but I was careful not to make contact.

Angkor Wat interior

Final Thoughts on Angkor’s Ancient Temples

This half-day tour was an unforgettable experience, offering a glimpse into the grandeur and mystery of Cambodia’s ancient past. The combination of history, architecture, and the natural beauty of the sunrise made it a truly magical journey. For anyone visiting Siem Reap, this tour is a must, providing a deep connection to the ancient world that still resonates today.

Read more about our adventures in Southeast Asia!

Walking in the Footsteps of the Apostle Paul – Ancient Ephesus

Our journey through Turkey’s ancient wonders led us to the magnificent ruins of Ephesus. This amazing site offers a breathtaking glimpse into the grandeur of the Roman Empire. Nestled near the modern town of Selçuk, Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our visit to this historic gem was nothing short of extraordinary.

World Heritage marker at Ephesus

Arrival at Ephesus

Baths of Varius at Ephesus.

As we arrived at the upper entrance to Ephesus, the sheer scale of the site was immediately apparent. The ancient city, once a bustling metropolis and a major port, now lay in ruins, yet its splendor was still palpable. We were greeted by the ruins of an ancient agora and the baths of Varius.

The Library of Celsus

Library of Celsus at Ephesus

One of our memorable stops was the Library of Celsus, one of the most photographed monuments in Ephesus. Built in 117 AD, this grand structure once housed thousands of scrolls and served as a monumental tomb for Celsus, a Roman senator. The facade, with its intricately carved columns and statues, was breathtaking. Standing before this ancient library, we felt a deep connection to the scholars and thinkers who once walked these halls.

Menorah etched into the marble steps of the Library of Celsus.

Inscribed in the steps of the library is a Menorah. This simple symbol points to the diverse and bustling culture of ancient Ephesus. As a major port for trading, Ephesus was a metropolis of varied cultures and religions.

The Great Theatre

Great Arena of Ephesus.

Near the end of our visit, we made our way to the Great Theater. This massive structure could seat up to 25,000 spectators. This ancient theater, built into the slope of Panayir Hill, was used for gladiatorial contests, theatrical performances, and public gatherings. The acoustics of the theater were so remarkable that even a whisper from the stage could be heard at the top rows.

Distant house purported to be where Paul stayed when he fled Ephesus.

This theater is mentioned in Acts 19, although this scripture does not actually say that Paul preached here. It is reasonable to believe that he may have. But on the day of the Silversmith’s riot, as recounted in scripture, Paul was urged not to enter the theater. Our guide in Turkey indicated to us a fortified house on a house distant (but visible) from Ephesus where Paul fled to. It is believed Paul remained at this house until a ship arrived to take him from Ephesus. I do not know the provenance of this story, but it is an interesting side note.

The Terrace Houses

Terrace Houses with intricate mosaic patios.

Another interesting highlight of our visit was exploring the Terrace Houses, also known as the “Houses of the Rich.” These well-preserved homes belonged to the wealthy elite of Ephesus and offered a fascinating glimpse into their luxurious lifestyle. The intricate mosaics, frescoes, and marble floors were incredibly well-preserved, showcasing the opulence of ancient Roman life. Walking through these houses, we marveled at the advanced engineering and artistic skills of the time.

The Temple of Artemis

While the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, now lies mostly in ruins, we visited the site where this once magnificent temple stood. Although only a single column remains, it was interesting to imagine the grandeur of the temple in its prime. Dedicated to the goddess Artemis, this temple was a center of religious worship and a symbol of the city’s wealth and power.

The Streets of Ephesus

Paved Walkway between the Library and Arena

Strolling through the ancient streets of Ephesus, we encountered various other significant structures, including the Agora, the Odeon, and the Baths of Scholastica. Each corner of the city held its own historical significance and architectural marvels. The marble-paved streets, lined with remnants of shops and public buildings, provided a vivid picture of daily life in this once-thriving city.

Public bathroom at Ephesus.

Reflecting on Our Visit to Ephesus

Our visit to the ruins of Ephesus was a journey back in time, offering a profound connection to the ancient world. The grandeur of the monuments, the sophistication of the city planning, and the artistry of the ancient craftsmen left us in awe. Ephesus is not just a collection of ruins; it is a living testament to the ingenuity, culture, and spirit of a civilization that has shaped our history.

View of Great Arena from Harbor Street which once led to the bay.

As we left Ephesus, the echoes of its glorious past stayed with us, a reminder of the enduring legacy of human achievement. For anyone with a passion for history, archaeology, or simply the beauty of ancient architecture, a visit to Ephesus is an absolute must. It is a place where the past comes alive, offering an unforgettable experience that enriches the soul and ignites the imagination.

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Discovering the Asclepieion of Pergamon: The Ancient Healing Center

Our journey through Turkey’s rich historical tapestry led us to an extraordinary destination: the Asclepieion of Pergamon. This ancient healing center, nestled in the heart of the ancient city of Pergamon (modern-day Bergama), is a testament to the advanced medical practices and architectural ingenuity of ancient civilizations. Here’s a glimpse into our visit to this fascinating UNESCO World Heritage site.

Entrance to the Asclepieion of Pergamon

A Brief History of the Asclepieion of Pergamon

The Asclepieion of Pergamon was one of the most renowned healing centers in the ancient world, dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine. Established in the 4th century BCE, it reached its zenith during the Roman period, attracting patients from far and wide who sought cures for their ailments. The complex was not just a hospital; it was a holistic health center combining medical treatment with spiritual and psychological care.

Arrival and First Impressions

View as you enter the grounds of the Asclepieion.

As we approached the site, the grandeur of the Asclepieion was immediately apparent. The ruins sprawled across a picturesque landscape, with remnants of columns and structures standing as silent witnesses to centuries of medical history. The serene ambiance of the area, surrounded by lush greenery, set the tone for an enlightening exploration.

Exploring the Asclepieion of Pergamon

Colonnaded path to Asclepieion of Pergamon.

Entering the Asclepieion, we followed the Sacred Way, a colonnaded path that once welcomed patients to the sanctuary. This path, lined with the remnants of ancient columns, led us to the heart of the healing center, where several key structures captivated our attention.

The Temple of Asclepius

At the center of the complex stood the Temple of Asclepius, dedicated to the god of healing. Although only the foundations and a few columns remain, the temple’s historical significance was palpable. Here, patients would offer sacrifices and prayers, seeking divine intervention for their recovery.

The Theater

Asclepieion of Pergamon Theater

One of the most striking features of the Asclepieion is the small theater, built into the hillside. This theater, with its semicircular seating arrangement, was used for lectures and performances, recognizing the importance of mental well-being and entertainment in the healing process. Sitting here, we could almost hear the echoes of ancient lectures and performances.

The Healing Spring and Pools

Asclepieion of Pergamon healing center

Water played a crucial role in the healing practices at the Asclepieion. We visited the sacred spring, believed to have curative properties, and the adjacent pools where patients would bathe. The sound of flowing water added a tranquil backdrop to our visit, emphasizing the center’s emphasis on natural and holistic healing methods. We were also able to walk through the healing tunnel, where inebriated guests would be given suggestive instructions from above ground (such as make a donation) as they navigated the length of the tunnel. Small streams of water trickled along the edges of the tunnel, adding to the serenity.

The Library and Medical School

Pergamon was also home to a significant library, second only to the Library of Alexandria. The Asclepieion’s library and medical school were vital components of the site, where ancient physicians like Galen, one of history’s most influential medical practitioners, studied and taught. Walking through these areas, we felt a deep connection to the ancient pursuit of knowledge and healing.

Reflections on Our Visit to Asclepieion of Pergamon

Our visit to the Asclepieion of Pergamon was a journey through time, offering insights into the advanced medical practices of the ancient world. The integration of spiritual, psychological, and physical healing at this site was truly ahead of its time, reflecting a comprehensive approach to health that remains relevant today.

Asclepieion of Pergamon Courtyard

Standing among the ruins, we were struck by the timeless quest for healing and well-being. The Asclepieion of Pergamon is not just an archaeological site; it is a symbol of humanity’s enduring pursuit of knowledge and health. For history enthusiasts, travelers seeking a deeper understanding of ancient medicine, or anyone interested in the roots of holistic healing, the Asclepieion of Pergamon is a must-visit destination.

Practical Information

  • Location: The Asclepieion is located in Bergama, about 100 kilometers north of Izmir, Turkey.
  • Opening Hours: The site is open daily, but hours can vary, so it’s best to check in advance.
  • Admission: There is an entrance fee (currently at about twenty dollars), with discounts available for students and seniors.
  • Guided Tours: Consider hiring a local guide to fully appreciate the historical and cultural significance of the site.
  • What to Bring: Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning ruins and beautiful landscape. There is an opportunity for a good amount of walking to explore the ruins.

Visiting the Asclepieion of Pergamon was an unforgettable experience that deepened our appreciation for the ancient world’s contributions to medicine and holistic healing. And maybe a bit of ancient scamming. It’s an experience we highly recommend to anyone exploring the wonders of Turkey. Particularly for history buffs.
Learn more about my travels to Turkey!

Exploring the Kasbah of the Udayas: Rabat’s Scenic Fort

A Historical Gem

The Kasbah of the Udayas (Casbah des Oudaias) is a waterfront focal point of Rabat, located off Rue de Consuls along the Bouregreg River. First built during the Almoravid Dynasty, the kasbah was later rebuilt by the Almohad Caliphate in the mid-twelfth century. The kasbah was deserted at the end of the twelfth century but is now a bustling hive of activity.

Kasbah of Udayas

A Walk Through History

We entered the kasbah at the higher elevation of the fortress, greeted by narrow walkways adorned in blue and white. Vendors and shops lined our path as we made our way to the stunning shoreline vantage point. From there, we navigated through another series of alleyways to the lower section of the kasbah, featuring a lush garden. The kasbah offers an exceptional view of the surrounding region, making it the perfect spot for a fortification.

Blue and white accents through the Udaya Kasbah

A Unique Experience

Exterior of Kasbah of the Udayas

The Kasbah of the Udayas, inhabited for centuries by sultans and refugees, also houses Rabat’s oldest mosque. The merchants near the entrance and walkways were laid-back, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. The colorful blue and white hues gave the kasbah a Mediterranean feel, enhanced by the nearby waterfront view.

View from ramparts at Kasbah of Udayas.

The lower entrance’s lush gardens were immaculately tended. Despite the tempting tea service in the outdoor seating, we continued our exploration due to the heat. The Kasbah of the Udayas is a must-see in Rabat, offering rich history and breathtaking views.

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